Siena and the understated charm of its historic centre

The history of Siena begins with its establishment as a Roman military colony in the time of Emperor Augustus, but it was only from the 10th century onwards that Siena began to acquire significant political and economic importance. It was at the heart of important trade routes, and it was during the turbulent years of the wars with neighbouring Florence that the city experienced its heyday. Great artists such as Duccio di Buoninsegna, Simone Martini and the Lorenzetti brothers had the opportunity to express their art in the city. In 1240, with the establishment of the Schools of Medicine and Law, the University of Siena was founded, one of the oldest universities in the world.

The city reached the height of its splendour under the Government of the Nine, which came to power in 1287 and remained in office until 1355. During these golden years for the city, work began on the construction of magnificent monuments such as the Cathedral, the Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia.

The decline of the Republic of Siena began with the plague epidemic that killed three-fifths of the population in 1384. Siena's pride has never waned, and even today, the city remains defined by its historic division into neighbourhoods ('contrade') within the mediaeval city walls. Every year since 1644, twice a year on 2 July and 16 August, these same 17 contrade compete in the iconic Palio di Siena, a horse race of mediaeval origin held in the Piazza del Campo.

Siena's historic centre, which has remained intact for centuries, looks today almost exactly as it did in the 14th century. Your journey to discover the city begins in the magnificent Piazza del Campo, surrounded by imposing monuments that will keep you occupied for several hours.

From the heart of Sienese social life, after taking a few photos to capture the red colour brought to life by the sunlight, begin by climbing the 400 steps of the Torre del Mangia, an unmissable vantage point overlooking the piazza and the rooftops of Siena, and then visit the Palazzo Pubblico, which houses the Civic Museum, containing masterpieces such as Simone Martini's Maestà and Ambrogio Lorenzetti's fresco cycle The Effects of Good and Bad Government.

Fonte Gaia is the city's first public fountain and is well worth a souvenir photo before you make your way, through the city's narrow streets, to the monumental complex of the Duomo di Siena. One of the finest examples of an Italian Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, the Duomo houses sculptures by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello, Michelangelo and Bernini. With a single entrance ticket, you can access the Piccolomi Library and the Gate of Heaven, which for centuries remained closed to the public. And, with a bit of luck, you can also admire the cathedral's floor, which is uncovered for only a few weeks a year, usually between June–July and August–October.

Take all the time you need to admire every corner of the Cathedral, not forgetting a visit to the crypt, and then continue to the nearby Baptistery of St John, which you can reach by descending a few steps. With its fully frescoed naves with pointed vaults, the Baptistery is one of the finest examples of 15th-century Sienese painting.

One thing is certain: every corner of Siena conceals treasures and sights worth photographing. If you are in the city centre, behind Piazza del Campo, you will find another example of Sienese architecture, the Loggia della Mercanzia, a Gothic-Renaissance structure consisting of a large open loggia with three high arches supported by pillars with ornate capitals.

From this monument, which bears witness to the mercantile power of mediaeval Siena, you can walk to the Sanctuary of St Catherine, which incorporates the former home of the Benincasa family, the birthplace of St Catherine. The sanctuary is spread over three floors and comprises various porticoes, loggias and churches from different eras. Of particular interest is the Chiesa del Crocifisso, built in the early 1600s to house the Crucifix from which Catherine received the stigmata in 1375.

Art lovers should not miss a visit to the Museo dell'Opera, one of the oldest private museums in Italy, located behind the Duomo. Founded in 1869, the museum houses two masterpieces by Duccio di Buoninsegna: the Maestà altarpiece and the polychrome stained-glass window created for the apse of the Duomo.

As you stroll through Siena's narrow red-painted streets, you will be drawn in by the enticing aromas of Sienese cuisine, which has its roots in the past and is based on wholesome ingredients such as vegetables, pulses and meat.

• Make yourself comfortable and let yourself be captivated by the lavish platters of local cured meats and cheeses, such as capocollo, finocchiona and Pecorino di Pienza.
• For a heartier meal, you can't go wrong with pici with wild boar ragù, available in every restaurant and trattoria in Siena. Vegetarians can opt for pici with cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) or try gnudi, delicious dumplings made from ricotta, spinach and Parmesan cheese and seasoned with butter and sage.
• Sienese cuisine also boasts a wealth of desserts, such as Panforte di Siena, a cake dating back to the 13th century and available in every café and patisserie in the city. Cavallucci are delicious biscuits made with walnuts and candied fruit, but if you like almonds, you simply must try Ricciarelli di Siena, oval-shaped biscuits made from almond paste and flavoured with vanilla and candied fruit.