Sicily

The pure white enchantment of the Scala dei Turchi on a crystal clear sea It’s like dazzling white pearl sloping down to the azure sea, creating a spectacular contrast. In the Agrigento area, the Scala dei Turchi is breathtaking; a unique cliff shaped by the wind over centuries, with the skill of an artist. It feels like lying on a white sheet. It is a place of unique enchantment, also celebrated by cinema and literature. Geology as a work of art The Scala dei Turchi is a sheer cliff overlooking the sea, formed by a spectacular series of terraces. The star of the unusual setting is called Trubi and it is made up of very ancient sedimentary rocks, in this case composed of marl, a soft, clayey limestone material. This is why the wind, with the aid of the waves and salty air, has been able to create its masterpiece by shaping the soft material and smoothing out its corners. Even the name has its own interesting quirks. History, with a good dose of legend, tells us that in ancient times ships of Saracen pirates, incorrectly called Turks by the locals, landed here in the 1500s to plunder the coastal villages. Stop, admire, and discover the coves Before heading down, admire the seascape from above in all its glory. The panorama opens up before you, taking in the coast of Agrigento as far as Capo Rossello. You will also notice that the Scala dei Turchi is nestled between two magnificent coves of golden sand, accessible by a rather impervious path. All around, rocks dot the limpid water. The Agrigento coast offers numerous beaches for relaxing bathing amidst beautiful scenery. They are worth exploring. At the nearby Playa Lido Rossello, in Realmonte, you can swim against the backdrop of the Scala dei Turchi. At Giallonardo the sand is particularly fine and the shoreline is wide: stroll for a while to find yourself away from the crowds. The Punta Grande beach stretches for 10 kilometres as far as Capo Rossello, against a background of cliffs and rocky ridges. Le Pergole, between Siculiana Marina and Realmonte, is, on the other hand, a small strip; walking along it you will come across an even more secluded beach, known as 'U Cappiddazzu'. The place loved by Andrea Camilleri Andrea Camilleri, a native of nearby Porto Empedocle, is the Sicilian writer who shot to worldwide fame with the series of novels starring Commissioner Montalbano, later also featured in a highly successful TV drama. In one of the books in the series, La prima indagine di Montalbano (Montalbano's first investigation), published by Sellerio like all the others, there is a passage in which he describes the Scala dei Turchi. The Scala dei Turchi also won over director Giuseppe Tornatore, who filmed several scenes of Malèna here, with actress Monica Bellucci. Welcome to Vigata! Vigata exists only in Andrea Camilleri's imagination, as the Sicilian town that is the setting of his character's adventures. In real life it is Porto Empedocle, where the writer was born. Porto Empedocle is a small seaside village with a delightful historic centre. Wander through the narrow streets, admire the Tower of Charles V, and in the evening head to Café Vigata for an aperitif, served with delicious rice arancini. Disclaimer. In February 2020, magistrates sealed off this part of the Agrigento coastline to avoid the risk of collapse and to preserve the cliffs. Before you go, check the new provisions and, if it is closed, you can enjoy the view from the sea.

Tonnara Beach, pearl of the Vendicari Reserve This is a natural oasis, a virgin territory bathed in Mediterranean maquis and overlooking a spectacular stretch of coastline. The Vendicari Reserve, a protected area in eastern Sicily, offers visitors a wealth of splendid views. Paths end in visions of magnificent beaches lapped by crystal-clear waters. First of all, let’s visit the Spiaggia della Tonnara. The iridescent reflections of the sea On the reserve's 13 kilometres of coastline, the Spiaggia della Tonnara (Tuna Beach) stands out in the southern part, with its long sandy shoreline and a number of scenic rocks. The seabed is shallow and gently sloping, so you will have to walk a little before you get to the point where you can finally dive in. The water ranges in hues from green to turquoise, from azure to a blue that rivals the sky in its beauty. The richness of the marine flora will also capture your attention, characterised here by vast prairies of Poseidonia, the aquatic plants found both on the beach and in the very first few metres of the seabed. The tradition of tuna fishing Opposite the beach is the islet of Vendicari, along the coast is the Torre Sveva and the remains of the ancient tuna fishery with its artefacts of “fishing archaeology”. This is because Sicily boasts a very ancient tradition of catching and processing tuna, which gave rise to these fascinating buildings. The Tonnara di Vendicari fishery, also known as Bafutu, skims the water and today we can appreciate its recently restored ruins. It is 100 metres in length with a series of columns that once supported the roof, and it has a tall chimney. You will also see the old fishermen's houses here. The Sveva Tower is a defensive structure built in 1400 to protect the warehouses where foodstuffs were stored in what was once a thriving port. The impressive building still has its original windows. Amid beaches and footpaths It is a real pleasure to walk or cycle around the Vendicari Reserve, which covers 1,512 hectares in the province of Syracuse, from the town of Noto to Pachino. You will come across other beaches, such as the magnificent San Lorenzo beach, which is very child-friendly and also close to the Spiaggia della Tonnara, of which it is the natural extension. In addition to the section dominated by fine, light-coloured sand, you will also find small rocky inlets and a gem of a beach, Calamosche, a delightful sandy cove bordered by two rocky promontories that shelter it from the tides and create an enchanting natural swimming pool. Along the path leading to San Lorenzo beach, huts have been set up for birdwatching. You will wander among junipers, tamarisks, mastic trees and glasswort, beautiful orchids, thyme and rosemary bushes. Look up to the sky to spot grey herons and large flocks of herring gulls, while a few foxes, hedgehogs, porcupines and wild rabbits may roam among the vegetation. And even further south... Towards the extreme southern tip of Sicily, the Isola delle Correnti is where the Ionian and Mediterranean Seas meet. Untamed and unspoilt, it is connected to Portopalo by a thin sliver of stone. Then head to Marzamemi, a charming fishing village built around its majestic tuna fishery. The central Regina Margherita square with its two churches and old fishermen's houses all around is delightful. Enjoy a leisurely stroll; the entire village is pedestrianised so no cars are allowed to drive through. Sip a coffee while enjoying a view of the sea, in one of the small cafés overlooking the two natural harbours, La Fossa and La Balata. Settle down at an outdoor table in one of the many restaurants and order prawns from Mazara del Vallo, pasta with cherry tomatoes from Pachino and specialities made from ventresca, botargo and bluefin tuna mosciame, which you can also buy in the large emporium in the historic centre.

Lipari the sweet, the most placid of the Aeolian Islands At 37 square kilometres, Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian Islands, a World Heritage Site for anyone who has passed through here and, since 2000, for UNESCO as well. The administrative and economic centre of the entire Sicilian archipelago, it is the least “volcanic” of its 7 islands, as evidenced by the weak hydrothermal and fumarole activity in its western part. Take note, however, it is the one that best harmonises the wild Aeolian charm with the convenience of connections and services. The evening nightlife and the flow authenticity of the quarters The urban area stretches between the bars and restaurants overlooking the beautiful Piazza di Sant'Onofrio, also known as Marina Corta, and Via Francesco Crispi, known as Marina Lunga: in between, from May to October, the local nightlife and movida is focused in the evenings. The rest of the island is well-connected to the centre by a network of paved roads, but if you really want to get into its flow of scents, sounds and sights and savour some of that placid sweetness alluded to by its Greek name, Meligunis, we recommend that you go around Lipari by bike or walk around the island, loitering among the dry stone walls of its districts: Canneto, Acquacalda, Quattropani. Like on a film set As well as beach life, if you are planning to delve into the culture and history of Lipari, the advice is to visit sights and monuments by sunset, when the air is cooler and the streets come alive. A must-see is the Chiostro de normanni, part of the first Benedictine monastery built in Sicily at the behest of King Roger II, so well preserved and evocative that you will feel as if you are on the set of a costume film. Equally scenic is the imposing structure of the castle, a veritable acropolis, which stands on a promontory inhabited since the Neolithic period. The city walls ideally enclose the historic centre: in the fortified citadel, an archaeologist's paradise, every nook and cranny in which you stand tells a page of history: it will be like retracing the long list of dominations that have taken place here, leaving an indelible imprint. To explore further, venture through the fifty rooms of the Regional Archaeological Museum, one of the most prestigious in the Mediterranean. Bartholomew's thumb On the other hand, if you are a fan of relics, make a stop inside the Castle at the Cathedral, dedicated to St Bartholomew, the patron saint of the entire archipelago: the church still houses the saint's “sacred thumb”, the only fragment that mysteriously escaped the 833 abduction of the apostle's body by the Beneventois. Now the finger “rests” in a silver reliquary in the shape of a blessing arm, displayed during festivities in honour of the saint. Belvedere hunting For collectors of views, we recommend feasting your eyes on Lipari's most scenic spots, starting from the Acropolis promontory. Worth a souvenir photo, and perhaps even a romantic selfie between sky and sea, the horizon contemplated from Belvedere Quattrocchi, against the backdrop of the Pietra Lunga and Pietra Menalda stacks. Instead, the view from the church of Madonna della Catena in the hamlet of Quattropani, a small, white-plastered Doric-style sanctuary overhanging the sea, is reminiscent of the Cyclades. Finally, the so-called “Semaforo”, the geophysical observatory housed inside a disused Royal Navy traffic light, is worth a hike, from which you will feel as if you are touching both the stacks and the island of Vulcano with your finger. In the mood for trekking... or rather scekking On the other hand, if you pursue the wild soul of the island, one of the most interesting trekking trails is the rather demanding one that leads from the kaolin quarries to the San Calogero thermal baths, along the sulphur fumaroles, a geo-mineral park, up to the 19th-century thermal baths converted into a museum, built on one of the oldest known thermal springs: next to its pools, dating from the Hellenistic period, is a funeral monument of Mycenaean origin. But the most typical experience you can have along these paths is that of scekking, or trekking on the back of a donkey, scecco in Sicilian, proposed by the environmental guides of Lipari: an original way of redeveloping the island's former tenants for tourism, now promoted as guides for slow itineraries, divided into appetising stages where local products can be tasted. Beaches: to each his own stone White and sandy or volcanic and rocky: the coasts and beaches of Lipari satisfy the needs of every bather. You just have to decide which stone to lie on. The entire north-eastern coastline is covered with the dazzling white sand from the pumice and obsidian quarries that descend to the sea: from White Beach, reached by a steep flight of majolica steps, to White Beach, the most fashionable and exclusive establishment, which can only be reached by sea. If you prefer empty and secluded shores, head to the beaches at Pietraliscia or Porticello, or to the Secca della Forbice, in the Cappero area, much loved by the locals.

Panarea, the smallest island of the Aeolian Islands Panarea is the smallest and lowest of the 7 Aeolian islands, but also the oldest, geologically speaking. With its rocks and islets, it forms a kind of “archipelago within an archipelago” in the stretch of sea between Lipari and Stromboli. An unspoilt paradise in the Sicilian sunlight, at sunset becoming the queen of nightlife, epicentre of Aeolian social life. Exclusive destination with an ancient heart Discovered in the 1960s by a large community of artists and intellectuals in search of a lost Eden, a set celebrated by legendary films, over the decades the island has become a popular destination for tourism and the international jet set, attracted by its black beaches, thermal mud baths, whitewashed houses overlooking the sea, amidst patches of bougainvillea, capers and prickly pears. In the small town of San Pietro, the centre of the archipelago's summer nightlife, among clubs and discos to dance until dawn, among boutiques and restaurants, you can also visit a small branch of the Lipari Archaeological Museum: it preserves artefacts that testify to the island's ancient history, from the Neolithic period to the Bronze Age, almost all from the prehistoric village of Capo Milazzese. The fumaroles, the breath of the ancient volcano Traces of the ancient volcanic activity can still be found in the vapours of a series of fumaroles, which emanate from the cracks between the rocks of the Calcara beach and from the sea, where the gas escaping from the seabed forms columns of bubbles visible on the surface. In contrada San Pietro, a thermal spring also gushes out at a temperature of 50°C, used by the island's inhabitants for therapeutic purposes. A single concrete strip crosses the island: no cars are allowed here, but scooters, bicycles and Piaggio Ape cars can be hired to get around. Everything is so cosy that you can reach the other two hamlets on the island, Drautto and Ditella, directly on foot or, if you are tired or laden, aboard the Aeolian taxis, charming little gigs on wheels designed to transport people and luggage. The beaches: beautiful and all to conquer Most of Panarea's coastline consists of high, jagged cliffs, from which it is difficult to access the sea. The beaches here are few and not all within walking distance; however, they are among the most beautiful in the entire archipelago. Only a couple are accessible by land: Cala Junco, along the southern coast of the island, an enchanting natural pool with crystal-clear turquoise waters, protected by high cliffs, also famous for the prehistoric village of Punta Milazzese behind it, consisting of the remains of 23 oval huts. Along the same path, you will also come across Cala degli Zimmari, in a bay backed by a cliff and Mediterranean scrub, the only sandy beach on the entire island, known for its characteristic red colour that, by contrast, gives the sea that washes it a unique cobalt blue hue. Sea excursions and romantic traditions In Panarea, the most popular sport is to rent a boat and head out to sea, to discover the many little-visited coves nestled between its cliffs, islets and seascapes. If you reach Panarea in sweet company, one destination is a must: just 3 kilometres from the east coast is the islet of Lisca Bianca. Formerly exploited as an alum quarry, it houses among its ravines the famous Lovers' Cave: according to legend, lovers who kiss under its rocky vault will remain united for life.

Stromboli: a trip to the foot of the volcano for complete relaxation The island of Stromboli is the most northerly island of the Aeolian archipelago and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, between Panarea and the Calabrian coast. If you’re planning a holiday to this enchanting destination, you will not miss the imposing volcano Mount Stromboli, one of the most active and perhaps unique volcanoes in the world with its three perpetually erupting craters. Walking on the giant's “skin” The locals have nicknamed the volcano Iddu, Sicilian for “he”, because of its small explosive flashes, repeated at intervals of about 15-20 minutes, and because of its perpetual grumbling and the periodic minor eruptions. Mount Stromboli is a volcano that commands a respectful awe from all who visit: with two-thirds submerged under the surface of the sea, over time humans have built settlements and communities on its back, for millennia we have continued to tread on its sensitive skin, almost teasing it a little. Disconnecting by reconnecting with nature The island is divided into towns, almost all clustered on the north-eastern side, where you will also find the main beaches: Scari, Piscità, San Vincenzo, Ficogrande and the town of Stromboli. On the opposite side, isolated and reachable only by sea, is Ginostra, a picturesque amphitheatre of huts perched on the rock: once a humble fishing village, it is now a unique and rather spartan tourist destination. Before planning a holiday in Stromboli, the first thing to remember is that only residents can drive motorised vehicles and there is no public transport. However, not to worry – it only takes twenty minutes to walk from one end of the town to the other! What’s more, there are several electric taxis that, at modest prices, will take you to your destination along the only kilometre of paved road. Rather than being an inconvenience, the scarcity of vehicles on the road will give you the pleasant feeling of truly being away from it all on holiday. A pitch black night, to count the stars The other thing to note is that there is no public lighting on the island, so we recommend always carrying a torch when you go out at night. The almost total darkness of the night gives an extraordinary brilliance to the canopy of stars twinkling above Stromboli, sure to delight stargazers everywhere and certainly the most romantic visitors. The island also lacks its own source of drinking water, which is transported there by tanker once a week in winter and three times a week in summer. The evening is the best part of the day! At sunset, while visitors in all the seaside resorts enjoy an aperitif, it is the ideal time to experience some of the main excursions. If you are properly equipped, in good health and accompanied by an authorised guide, you can trek up the back of the volcano to the summit, at an altitude of 900 metres, and admire the explosive activity of the craters – from a safe distance! Remember that things can change very quickly at Stromboli: sometimes, due to the conditions of the volcano, groups cannot depart or are forced to stop halfway. Also at dusk, you can head by boat from Scari to Sciara del Fuoco, the steep slope formed by lava, incandescent volcanic slag and lapilli that descends from the crater of Stromboli down into the sea. From the water, you can enjoy spectacular views of this river of fire flowing down the mountain. The black beaches of the Stromboli coastline Summer days should undoubtedly be devoted to enjoying the sea. Much of Stromboli's coastline is marked by high cliffs. The main beaches, almost all with shimmering black sand, are located along the stretch of coast from Ficogrande to La Petrazza. We recommend avoiding light-coloured swimwear. Pleased to meet you, Strombolicchio! A ten-minute walk from the hydrofoil landing takes you to Ficogrande beach, a cove bathed in sand and volcanic rock. Forgia Vecchia, however, wins the award for the most beautiful beach on the island. This rather wild expanse of black pebbles, smoothed by the water and wind, can be reached by land via a path from the nearby beach of Scari, below San Vincenzo, a town overlooking the iconic Strombolicchio. Legend has it that this volcanic sea stack, Iddu's younger brother, is the top of a volcano that was thrown into the sea during an eruption. A few years ago, it was designated a protected nature park: the lighthouse that towers above it, once gas-powered, is now 100% self-sufficient thanks to renewable energy.

Vulcano: the Aeolian island with a relaxing open-air spa If you want to make peace with nature, de-stress and detox from sedentary habits, Vulcano, with its full-of-life, primordial and, above all, healthy elements, is the island for you: its irrepressible volcanic temperament and spectacular, untamed landscape will help you relax and regain your inner balance. Welcoming and friendly Vulcano, a UNESCO World Heritage site less than a kilometre from Lipari, is the closest to the coast among the seven islands of the Aeolian archipelago. On this strip of Sicilian land, under the benevolent gaze of the ancient dormant “Vulcano” volcano, you can delight in the benefits of the thermal and sulphurous waters and an unspoilt seascape, for a holiday far from the masses. The island is very compact, so the best way to travel is by scooter or bicycle. A healthy volcanic vigour According to Greek mythology, Vulcano once housed the forges of Hephaestus, the god of fire and blacksmiths, who was served by none other than the Cyclops. Even though the last eruption on the island, composed of four original craters, was recorded around 1890, the ancient volcano continues to make its presence known through fumaroles, the jets of steam on the crest and on the seabed, and the sulphurous muds renowned for their therapeutic properties. Despite the overwhelming smell of sulphur, if you’re passing by Vulcano, you cannot miss out on the exciting experience of diving into the thermal mud baths, natural volcanic pools with curative properties. It was first made accessible to the public in the 1960s, when the superficial crust covering the pool was removed, without altering the natural habitat. This open-air spa offers remarkable benefits: it can sooth inflammation and pain, heal the skin and is a real pick-me-up for the respiratory system. A hike to the summit with breathtaking views Why not follow your mud bath with a dip in the island's crystal-clear waters? Or this might be your final stop for a well-deserved refreshment after a challenging hike to Vulcano’s Great Fossa Crater, at 391 metres above sea level. It is a somewhat strenuous seven-kilometre route, but is suitable for everyone. We recommend hiking during the cooler hours of the day: it is a three-hour round trip, but it is well worth it for the breathtaking 360-degree views of the archipelago at the summit. Jurassic park in lava stone Starting from Porto Levante, in the northern part of the island, you can head along a paved road to the Vulcanello peninsula: one of the three original eruptive craters of Vulcano, whose activity has shaped a surreal landscape known by the locals as the 'Valley of the Monsters'. Here, on a carpet of fine black sand, nature has fashioned a bizarre kind of Jurassic Park out of lava rock. When you let your imagination run wild, in these sculptures eroded by water and wind you will begin to see fantastical prehistoric monsters, crouching beasts and menacing creatures: in reality, nothing but bubbling lava formations solidified by a sudden cooling of the air. Black beaches with reflective natural pools After tackling monster valleys and volcanic treks, you deserve to treat yourself to some seaside relaxation. The shores of Vulcano are famous for their dark beaches and seabeds, where the lava stone plays with the sunlight’s reflections as it filters through the water, creating striking effects, especially at sunset. You can get a great picture of this at the Sabbie nere (Black Sands) beach, in the bay of Ponente, perhaps the most famous beach on Vulcano. From here, you can hire a boat and visit the enchanting Cavallo cave. Then there is the nearby Pool of Venus, which can only be reached by sea but is well worth the effort: also known as Bagno delle Vergini, it is an immense natural pool of tuff and basalt with inviting turquoise waters. Relaxation and nightlife: all in one beach If, on the other hand, you want to pamper yourself with a dip in bubbling water heated by sulphur vapours, you should stop by Fumarole beach, protected by a wall of rocks and Mediterranean scrubland, nestled in the bay of Ponente. Easily accessible by taxi boat or by taking a downhill path from the main road, Asino beach, private and secluded during the day, becomes a popular destination at night: this well-furnished cove hosts a fantastic bar where you can spend unforgettable evenings amid music and cocktails, the sea and starlit skies.

Alicudi and Filicudi: slow tourism in the wildest of the Aeolian Islands Alicudi and Filicudi offer the chance to lose yourself somewhere new, go off the beaten track, switch off and recharge – the wildest and most authentic islands of the Aeolian archipelago in the southern Tyrrhenian Sea, electricity only arrived here 20 years ago. Sharing proximity with each other and elective affinities, these remote islands, are the perfect destination for slow and sustainable tourism, for holidays that allow you to detox as you indulge in pristine nature. Being in tune with nature is so important for the locals that you can only arrive and depart when sea and wind conditions allow. So set aside your planner and get used to sniffing the air and using the sun as a clock and compass, because the weather here has its own rules. The only device you need to carry is a small torch, even an LED one, which you’ll find very useful after sunset, because there is no street lighting on these islands. Alicudi, no taxis but plenty of donkeys Formerly called Ericusa (named after the presence on the island of heather, which you will see everywhere as soon as you step foot on the land), it is the smallest, westernmost and most remote of the Aeolian archipelago. There are no tarmacked roads or cars here, the only means of transport are donkeys, the scecchi, as the locals call them; otherwise, people generally walk, on volcanic stone stairs and alleyways, paths and mule tracks. Be sure to pack comfortable shoes and no heels! In Filicudi, you will see no sight of ATMs or banks, nightclubs or discos, just a small post office, a hotel and one cosy little restaurant, which closes in mid-September. All nestled in a village with five hamlets, dotted around the port. All around is blissful silence, or rather, the great symphony of nature. The sea: a treasure to discover Alicudi's coastline is high and rugged, often interrupted by volcanic coves and caves. There are two beaches, but only one, a pebble beach, is accessible by land. Here, you will have to take on the sea, climbing like crabs over rocks and coves, or we recommend renting a boat or setting sail on one of the tours around the island. Or if you like snorkelling and diving, the rocks, reefs and seabed, home to dozens of species of fish, are an enchanting setting. The best way to explore Alicudi’s rugged, wild soul is to hike to the centre of the island, to its highest point, Filo dell'Arpa, home to an extinct volcanic crater, at an altitude of 675 metres. This itinerary takes a couple of hours, along a series of rather steep stone stairs, past the church of San Bartolo. Just before you reach the summit, you will come across the so-called Timpone delle femmine, a fortification of natural caves, where the women of the island apparently once sought shelter during pirate raids. Filicudi and the 7 extinct volcanoes Filicudi, which has a slightly larger surface area than Alicudi, about 9.5 square kilometres, is the archipelago's geologically oldest island. It hosts no fewer than seven volcanoes that have been extinct for years and owes its name to what the ancient Greeks called phoinicussa, the dwarf palm, still prevalent on the island's headlands. Its almost 200 inhabitants live in the southern part, in several hamlets connected by a paved road. In Filicudi, only residents are allowed to travel by car, but you can easily explore the island on foot or by scooter. An ancient history, guarded from the depths Once in Filicudi, you will feel the irresistible call of the sea, the main attraction of the island, which has three beaches: in addition to those at the port and Capo Graziano, the most beautiful is the black pebble beach of Pecorini A Mare, a picturesque village on the southern side of the island, where you can relax among the colourful boats and low-lying fishermen's houses. Just above the beach of Cape Graziano – a beach scattered with grey volcanic pebbles, perhaps the easiest spot to take a dip in the sea – you should definitely visit the prehistoric village, which stands in one of the most scenic spots on the island and is home to what remains of 27 huts dating back to the Bronze Age. If you are experienced in diving, with at least a level 2 diving licence and accompanied by an authorised diving instructor, then your visit can continue below the sea level: the seabed at Capo Graziano cradles the most beautiful underwater archaeological site in the Aeolian Islands, where you can discover the wrecks of nine Greek and Roman ships. Exploring the coast, amid the secrets and magic of the sea The best way to experience the sea at Filicudi is by boat: it is the only way to explore secret coves and caves. Among the most spectacular is the Grotta del Bue Marino, the largest cave in the Aeolian Islands, once home to a thriving colony of monk seals, now a magical place of reflections and surprising plays of light. Continuing along the same stretch of sea, you will come across the Scoglio della Fortuna (Rock of Fortune)—with its concave shape that encompasses a natural pool of crystal-clear water—and the La Canna rock, a giant, 70-metre-high sea stack vaguely resembling the figure of the Madonna and child. Many consider this the guardian of Filicudi and recognise its magical aura: legend has it that if you touch it, all your wishes will come true.

Salina, the greenest of the Aeolian Islands Thanks to its protected central position, Salina, the second largest of the Aeolian islands, is also the richest in vegetation and water of the entire Sicilian archipelago, and certainly the one where volcanic activity is at its quietest. Known as the Green Island, the ancient volcanic origins of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, testified by the extinct craters of Monte Fossa delle Felci and Monte Porri, two of the six volcanoes that once set it ablaze, are today nestled in a lush Nature Reserve that covers a large part of the territory and hosts several high-altitude routes for trekking enthusiasts. A scenic tour of the villages In another fascinating anomaly, Salina is the only Aeolian Island not administratively dependent on Lipari. It has three autonomous municipalities: Malfa, Leni and Santa Marina – well connected centres accessible by car, scooter or an excellent bus service that runs late into the night in summer. On the slopes of Monte Fossa delle Felci, lively and bustling especially in the evenings, Santa Marina is the place to be, criss-crossed by narrow streets full of bars and boutiques, with its iconic 18th-century church with twin bell towers. Perched on what remains of an ancient volcanic crater, the hamlet of Pollara is also a picture-perfect destination. It is guarded from the sea by an immense sea stack, probably a slab of its own rock that once fell off. Valdichiesa, an enchanted mountain village If you prefer the mountains to the sea, you will find cool respite from all the seaside shenanigans in the village of Valdichiesa, a small hamlet in the municipality of Leni, definitely the most “mountainous” on the island: it looks like an enchanted village, framed by mountains and vineyards. Here you will find the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Terzito, a pilgrimage destination, especially during the traditional celebrations on 23rd July: it is said that the Madonna has appeared in this area three times. A journey through the island's history Along Salina's historical-artistic itinerary it is worth visiting the Saracen caves, a series of interconnecting tunnels dug into the tuff and used as a refuge during the Saracen invasion in 650 AD. You can also reach them at the end of a rather long and demanding trekking route that starts in Santa Marina, among olive and fruit trees. Or why not take a journey back in time, visiting the beautiful, well-preserved archaeological site of Portella, between Santa Marina and Capo Faro? The ruins of the village here date back to the Bronze Age, and the Roman baths sit on the promenade from Santa Marina, now partially eroded by sea storms. An arch with a view If panoramic views are more your thing, keep an eye out for the “Castello” on the road between Pollara and Malfa, which will lead you to a small World War I fort. The square in front of it is a panoramic terrace overlooking the volcanic crater that houses Pollara, its beach and its private stretch of sea. Punta Perciato in Salina is undoubtedly the best place to admire the sunset, one of the most beautiful in the world, they say! This spectacular natural volcanic rock arch lets you watch the sun plunge into the sea next to Filicudi and Alicudi against a bright red sky. Stairway to the beach The best way to explore the sea of Salina is on board one of the many fishing boats that tour the island daily, though there are at least a couple of beaches accessible by land that are well worth a visit. The first is the beach at Pollara, the setting for many of the scenes in Il Postino, the last film starring Massimo Troisi: a gravel cove, dominated by an imposing cliff, creates a natural amphitheatre of tuff overlooking the sea. The nearby Punta Scario cove is also a wonderful place to spend a day in the sun. Immersed in the Mediterranean scrubland, at the bottom of another long flight of steps, it is a true paradise, though the pebbles can be a little uncomfortable under a towel after a while. Not to fear, the little cafe at the bottom of the slope is there to come to your rescue with airbeds for hire!