Autumn

Berceto and the Cisa Pass, the last Emilian stopover on the Via Francigena A jewel of the Parma Apennines, nestled between the Val di Taro and Val Baganza, 852 metres above sea level and 65 kilometres from Parma, Berceto is situated along the Strada Statale della Cisa road leading to La Spezia, not far from the Cisa motorway. It is the last stop in Emilia on the Via Francigena route, before reaching the Cisa Pass, which divides the provinces of Parma and Massa-Carrara. A welcoming place and a centre of worship It is precisely to its strategic position on the Via Francigena that Berceto owes its fortunes and importance as a mercantile and religious centre since the Middle Ages, when the numerous pilgrims heading for Rome found welcome and refreshment here before continuing their journey, across the arduous Apennine pass, towards the Tyrrhenian coast and the Eternal City. The monastery and the legend of Moderanno It is believed that a Roman garrison already existed in the area, but the present village developed from the establishment of a Benedictine monastery in the 7th century, by decision of the Lombard king Liutprand and thanks to the intercession of the bishop of Rennes Moderanno. In fact, one of the legends that usually surround the myths relating to its foundation narrates that Moderanno was forced to leave the precious relics of Saint Remigio, which he had recently come into possession of, right here: probably on his way to Rome, he allegedly tied them to a tree for a short stop before resuming his journey, but while he was sleeping, the tree grew out of all proportion, making them unreachable. Forced to stop in Berceto, Moderanno was thus appointed by Liutprand as the first prior of his monastery. The cathedral and castle, vestiges of ancient splendour The town's patron saint, Saint Moderanno is also the name of the Berceto cathedral, right on the route of the Via Francigena. With its imposing structure that encompasses different eras and styles, from Lombard to Romanesque to Renaissance, it bears witness to the reputation the town has acquired over the centuries. In the museum adjoining the cathedral, one can still admire sacred furnishings and vestments, including a 7th-century cope that is said to have belonged to Moderanno himself. Next to the cathedral is the chapel of Sant'Apollonia. Behind the cathedral is the famous Piazza San Giovanni, which the inhabitants of Berceto call “piazza dei canoni” (square of the canons), due to the presence of the Fontana dei Canon, where people used to go to fetch drinking water. The castle of Berceto must also have been imposing; it once towered over the town, but now only parts of the outer walls, remains of the inner subdivisions and some stairs remain. Buried under layers of earth and debris, wells, tunnels and ancient dungeons can still be found, which are gradually being unearthed to create an archaeological park. Founded in 1221 by the Commune of Parma and the subject of continuous disputes between the local seigniories, it was long in the possession of the Rossi counts who ruled Berceto until the Farnese era. Medieval hamlets and enchanted villages Once in Berceto, it is worth taking a tour of the passageways, churches and fortresses of its beautiful hamlets, scattered among the chestnut groves of the Parma mountains. Starting from Corchia, an evocative stone village with paved lanes, arched subways and a 12th-century hostel, to the ancient fortress of Pietramogolana, perched on the Taro; located at the confluence of the Manubiola and Taro streams, Ghiare is the site of a recently renovated former kiln, an example of late 19th-century industrial architecture; finally, it is said that the church of Bergotto was inhabited by a colony of witches, who would appear at night to come to the aid of smugglers; while the bundle of paths leading to the spectacular Salti del Diavolo (Devil's Jumps) starts from Fugazzolo. The Cisa, slow tourism and gourmet cuisine From Berceto, following one of the toughest sections of the Via Francigena, we reach the Cisa Pass, the mountain pass that separates the Ligurian Apennines from the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines and links the upper Val di Taro and Lunigiana, at an altitude of about 1041 metres above sea level. Here, just before the current pass, stood the hospice of Santa Maria. Today, the ancient border between the Duchies of Parma and Piacenza and the Grand Duchy of Tuscany is indicated by wall inscriptions on the ancient post station. The chapel of Nostra Signora della Guardia, built at the top of a steep flight of steps in 1921, is of much more recent origin. From here, the descent continues towards Pontremoli and the Tyrrhenian coast. These places are a haven for cyclists and those who love trekking and “slow tourism” in general. While the views and cosy atmospheres of the Via Francigena satiate travellers and pilgrims, the restaurants and trattorias in the area offer plenty of temptations for food and wine lovers, with traditional country dishes enriched by the aromas and flavours of the forest, in particular mushrooms and chestnuts. For more information www.borghiautenticiditalia.it/borgo/berceto viefrancigene.org - From Cassio to the Cisa Pass

Berceto: a journey back in time to the Middle Ages among the Parma Apennines Berceto is a charming village set in the Parma Apennines, located 852 metres above sea level, halfway between Parma and La Spezia. The last stop on Via Francigena before the Apennine pass is Berceto, small in size but rich in monuments and sites of interest, including the Cathedral of St Moderanno and the ruins of the Castle of Berceto. You are sure to be immediately struck by the medieval atmosphere that permeates the historic centre, among ancient alleyways, stone houses, elegant palaces built between the 12th and 17th centuries, and the cathedral overlooking the iconic, short Via Romea. From the Cathedral to Saint Apollonia chapel The Cathedral of St Moderanno dates back to the 12th century, though the neo-Romanesque façade was rebuilt in the late 19th century due to land subsidence. The central lunette is dedicated to the theme of redemption from sin, with reliefs depicting Jesus on the cross surrounded by Mary, St John and St Moderano, the patron saint of Berceto. The interior was also remodelled during the Renaissance, but the presbytery, which dates back to the medieval church, contains two centuries-old relics: the bones of St Moderanno and of the martyr St Abbondio. Inside the cathedral you will find the Saint Apollonia chapel, which is home to a small museum where you can admire an ancient glass chalice that dates back to before the 11th century. The imposing castle of Berceto once dominated the town in its prime. Today, only a few ruins remain, but they are nevertheless well worth visiting. The castle was built in 1221 by the Commune of Parma, before being abandoned over the centuries and later used as a stone quarry to supply the construction of houses in the historic centre. Just a few steps from the cathedral you can admire the restoration work on the ruins that began in 2004. Unmissable sites around Berceto Berceto doesn’t stop at its small historic centre and delicious dishes prepared with PGI Porcino Mushrooms and the ever-present Parmigiano Reggiano. Around the village, you can experience the High Apennines by horseback during the summer, exploring the small neighbouring villages. On your way down the valley from the centre of Berceto, we recommend stopping at the village of Corchia and strolling among the stone houses and paved alleyways. Continuing in the direction of La Spezia, you will come across the Cisa Pass, with the iconic Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Guard built in the early 1900s in the neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic style - a truly unmissable site.

Situated on the slopes of the Nebrodi Mountains, in a strategic point on the valley of the Rosmarino Torrent in the province of Messina, Alcara li Fusi (Larcara in Sicilian) is a very ancient centre that was fought over over the centuries by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Spaniards and Bourbons. According to local tradition, the present village arose following the gradual abandonment of settlements further upstream, while the first document referring to the settlement dates back to 1096. In 1812, it took the name Alcara “Li Fusi” as the centre of production of spindles used for spinning and to distinguish it from the village of Lercara Friddi. The vast territory of Alcara, now quite uninhabited, but in the past affected by a scattered settlement linked to agriculture and sheep farming, is rich in Worth visiting in the old town centre are the remains of one of the castle towers, the Mother Church, dating from the Byzantine period, the Church of San Pantaleone, the Abate Fountain, with an adjoining wash-house, the stone bridge over the Rosmarino river, and finally the Grotta del Lauro and the Rocche del Crasto. About 2.5 km from the town is the Sanctuary of the Hermitage of San Nicolò Politi. Built at the end of the Middle Ages encompassing the cave where Alcara's patron saint lived from 1137 until his death on 17 August 1167, it fascinates visitors with its simplicity and austerity.

Nestled in a lush valley bathed by the Simeto river, Maniace is bordered by a natural setting of striking beauty among the shores of the Simeto springs, the final slopes of the Nebrodi and the towering Etna mass. Its name is connected to the character of the Byzantine general Giorgio Maniace who, having defeated the Arabs, decided to build a monastery here housing an icon portraying the Madonna. Later, at the request of Queen Margaret of Navarra, a castle was built next to the monastery, which gave impetus to the foundation of the town. The Bourbons donated the settlement to Admiral Horatio Nelson following his naval victory over the French fleet in 1798 on the River Nile, and it was not until 1981 that the municipality acquired autonomy.

Campo Ligure is a small rural village, dominated by the ancient Castle: it is located in the centre of the Stura Valley, a land of pastures, and it is precisely this characteristic of its territory that has made it a village known for its production of milk and cheese, with a unique flavour and very high quality. The symbol of this small village, however, must be sought in its artisan tradition and its history, which is intertwined with this territory: here, in 1884, master Antonio Olivieri opened a workshop where he worked filigree and, soon, other artisans followed his example, until there were thirty-three! The stories of the origins of this tradition that represents the village today are enclosed in the 'Pietro Carlo Bosio' filigree museum, where around two hundred pieces are exhibited, grouped by geographical area of origin: Europe, Asia, Africa and Latin America. Observing the collection, one can see the differences between the various schools of workmanship across continents and cultures. A journey within a journey, a continuous discovery.

Between wellbeing and Etruscan heritage Relaxation and well-being immersed in revitalising thermal waters, but also an ancient history and a rich food and wine tradition, all in the midst of the rolling Tuscan hills. Chianciano Terme is one of the most beautiful towns in the province of Siena. The village became known for its healing waters after the Second World War, but in the streets of the historic centre you can sense an atmosphere suspended in time, a far older charm. Wander through the alleys, linger in the squares, stroll aimlessly until you find yourself in front of real works of art such as the Clock Tower, the Church of the Immaculate Conception, the Collegiate Church of St John the Baptist and the Castle of the Counts Manenti. Once you have discovered the beauty of the village, it is time to treat yourself to a moment of relaxation at Chianciano Terme, a complex that brings together indoor and outdoor pools, countless therapeutic treatments, spa facilities, tastings and much more. The springs flow at temperatures ranging from 16.5°C (Acqua Fucoli) to 38.5°C (Acqua Sillene). Choose your favourite pool, immerse yourself and let the thermal water dissolve all your worries.

The South Tyrolean territory is rich in natural areas, precious landscapes whose delicate environmental balance must be preserved. Therefore, the region has established numerous parks. There are seven in all, in addition to the Stelvio National Park. The task of each of them is to protect the invaluable ecosystem and make it accessible to all.

If you are looking for an eco-friendly experience and all-round immersion in nature, you are in the right place. In fact, 25% of the Campania region is occupied by protected areas, which go well with environmental and sustainable tourism. We propose a tour of the four Parks of Campania. An evocative route that will know how to enchant you, giving you landscapes that are always different and full of charm.

The Pollino National Park extends from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the Ionian Sea, covering an area of almost 200,000 hectares and is one of the GeoParks protected by UNESCO. It is located between Basilicata and Calabria. It is a heterogeneous structure, from the Piani di Campolongo, Novacco, and Lanzo, to Piani del Pollino, home to the Argentino and Abatemarco rivers, the Lao and Raganello gorges, and the streams of Peschiera and Frido. The whole area of Pollino is formed by the Massifs of Pollino and Orsomarso. The mountain range, which is part of thesouthern Apennines, can boast the highest peaks in southern Italy, covered with snow for a long period of the year, starting in November and ending in May, when the snow melts. The peaks of the Park reach an altitude of 2,200 metres above sea level. The natural area consists of dolomitic rocks, limestone ramparts, fault walls, cliffs, very deep gorges, and also plateaus, meadows and high altitude pastures. One of the "green" symbols of the Park is certainly the Loricato Pine, called "living fossil" or "dinosaur of the trees" by many, due to the ability of this type of conifer to resist and thrive in difficult environments, at altitudes above 1000 metres, and in isolated areas, where other types of trees cannot survive.

The territory defined in December 1922 as the Gran Paradiso National Park extends around the homonymous massif (whose peak exceeds 4000 meters) and in the past was a densely populated area. The architecture of the villages is based on the idea of the alpine house, on the Piedmontese side with constructions entirely made of wood, while on the Aosta Valley side wood is flanked by stone. The maximum splendor of this area was reached in the middle of the 1800s, when members of the House of Savoy came up to these parts to reach the hunting posts. The decision to prohibit hunting when the Park first opened was fundamental to saving the ibexes - which are its symbol - from extinction. Today, this mountain Eden, divided into five valleys where rocky environments, prairies, woods and their borders alternate, is truly within everyone's reach: thanks to the project “an Accessible Paradise”, the tourist offering of the entire protected area is able to satisfy the needs, interests and expectations of a wider range of users.

Thanks to its 70,000 hectares, the Sibillini Mountains National Park (between Umbria and the Marche regions) is a true treasure trove of biodiversity due to the alternating presence of wetlands in the valleys, and thick forests and wonderful plateaus such as that of Castelluccio di Norcia, famous for the flowering of lentils. There are many charming villages nestled in a unique landscape that changes according to the seasons at the various altitudes. In fact, there are many peaks in this area that are beyond 2000 meters of altitude above sea level and among them there are Mount Sibilla Mountain, Mount Bove Mountain and the Redentore Peak.

Bathed by two seas, the Tyrrhenian to the west and the Ionian to the east, very different in terms of landscape, beaches and coastal colours, Basilicata enchants with its small, picturesque villages over 1,000 metres above sea level, woods and forests covering the mountains, a landscape characterised by unspoilt nature that goes hand in hand with a prestigious history: all in one, small region with attractions for all tastes.

On Saturday, 27 June 2026, the ancient stones and scenic alleys of Fiumefreddo Bruzio (Province of Cosenza) will once again shine under the stars for the latest edition of Calici in Borgo, the event that celebrates the excellence of Calabrian wines and the most authentic flavours of local tradition. Following the great success of the first edition, the village – which has been awarded the title of one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy – will once again become the setting for a captivating multisensory experience: a journey through over 50 fine wine labels, local specialities and live entertainment, all against the backdrop of the timeless beauty of a historic centre overlooking the sea. Calici in Borgo is the perfect opportunity to discover Fiumefreddo Bruzio and let yourself be carried away by an evening of flavour, culture and togetherness. This is an event not to be missed for anyone who loves small villages, great experiences and the authentic flavours of Calabria.

In June, the weekends in Breme become tastier to celebrate the “Dolcissima”, a red onion which has been produced in Breme for generations and now bears the De.Co mark (municipal denomination of origin). This gastronomic event started out as a small local event and over the years has become a real reference point for gastronauts and chefs from Italy and beyond, in search of new inspiration. Each year, the festival aims to promote a small but precious product from the area's short supply chain. It does so by embracing the culinary tradition of the Lomellina Valley, with its generous recipes: the “dolcissima” is the queen of the menus prepared for the occasion and is paired with tripe, typical stews, grilled meats and the ever-present omelette, the true must of the festival!

It is 'the learned', because in 1088 it saw the birth of the first university in the western world, which still today attracts students from around the world. It is 'the red' because of the characteristic colour of its roofs, visible from the top of its medieval towers. And it is 'the fat' – you just try to resist the temptation of a sandwich stuffed with fresh mortadella or a dish of piping hot lasagna!

Of all the types of journey, opting for a route that follows the tasting stops has its reasons. Savouring the typical dishes of an area will accomplish a twofold mission: to satisfy the palate and get to know the traditions of the area. A food and wine itinerary in the Aosta Valley is this and much more. Mountain flavours, treasured traditions, the finest ingredients: the typical products of the Aosta Valley are worth the journey, and at the first taste you will understand why.

The chestnut finds its ideal habitat here thanks to the temperate climatic conditions, exposure to the sun and the chemical and physical composition of the soil: Marroni del Monfenera PGI chestnuts are the tastiest. We’re here on the slopes of Monfenera, in the foothills of Grappa and Montello in the province of Treviso, where miracles happen.

This traditional, prized vegetable comes to us directly from the tables of antiquity. The white asparagus of Cimadolmo PGI was once eaten by the Ancient Egyptians and Romans. Recent cultivation dates back a century and a half and is predominantly focused in Veneto. Only the young shoots, called turions, are boiled, becoming the main ingredient, or side dish of choice, in traditional dishes that are nothing short of exquisite.

There, everyone can make a tailor-made bike experience, either following the wake of the great champions, or choosing a not too testing ride, even with the whole family. The grand finale of Tirreno-Adriatico, the cycling race that runs across the Italian peninsula from sea to sea, unfolds in a scenery imbued with blooming and salty scents. The itinerary begins on the hills overlooking the sea and ends along the coast. A slower-running course in the first half, owning to the ups and downs that can test your quadriceps and lungs a faster-running route in the second half along the straight stretches that favour an upping pace. Here is a short guide to pick the fittest one for you.

A sort of an uncharted territory in regards to mass tourism, Molise, which lies between the regions of Abruzzo and Apulia, is a region that hosts numerous art treasures, breathtaking natural sceneries, and thousand-year-old traditions. A very characteristic aspect of Molise is its network of tratturi, the ancient grassy paths of transhumance from the pre-Roman Era up to only a few centuries ago, our ancestors traveled these trails, driving their animal herds from season to season. Livestock transhumance, the principal mainstay of the Southern peasant, was (and is still, in some cases) based on a very rigorous journey from the cool mountain pastures of Abruzzo in autumn, to the hot and humid Apulian Plateaus (where they reverse direction in summer).

These are the magnificent scenery of the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato, where the great Italian wines of Piedmont, Barolo and Barbaresco, are produced. This jewel of Piedmont with its seductive landscapes has become part of the World Heritage List of Unesco.

Ancona is made up of sea and hills. It seems that in ancient Greek "ankón" meant "elbow", and here the landscape of the coast is really like an elbow drawn from the hill of the Cathedral and the hilly parks of Cardeto and Passetto. In the middle is the city, with the sea horizon facing Dalmatia, ships and cranes along the docks, grandiose historical buildings, mysterious sculptural reliefs, imposing signs of the ancient Roman civilization, and beaches on the slopes of the parks. Spending a day of leisure in the large port city of the central Adriatic means making discoveries. Choosing two wheels is advisable, but not with a push bike: we are in a city of unevenness, not all of us have the strength of a cycling champion in our legs. There is no shortage of places to rent a scooter. You can get to Ancona by motorway, by the very long Adriatic road 16 or by rail. If you want, there is also an airport. The ideal thing would be to arrive in the most natural way: by ship, because you would get the taste of the place in the most panoramic and naturally slow way. Follow the manoeuvres, watch the tyres throw, get in line to disembark and finally begin to discover.

The Tuscan countryside around Siena takes in spas as well as excellent food and wine with these five delightful cycling routes through picture postcard nature. The spectacular countryside around Siena, in Tuscany, offers slow rides immersed in nature with the bouquet of wines and truffles, natural spas and very old villages still pervaded by the presence of the ancient Etruscans. Here are five essential itineraries for a truly complete sensory experience. These enchanting landscapes will also welcome stages of the Giro d'Italia 2023.

A farmer on his way back from the fields, an ancient Roman on a road heading North, a never-forgotten champion holding the handlebar with all his might. What about you? Who are you dreaming to be? The hinterland in Le Marche plays the main role in the second to last stage of Tirreno-Adriatico, the coast-to-coast race in which the cycling top contenders face off. The itinerary we are describing in these lines, however, lends itself to the (perhaps down-scaled) effort of the cycling enthusiasts. The merit goes to its mild slopes, immersed in the woods or surrounded by sunflower fields, its artistic richness and its wide culinary offer. Who among you, once off the bike, can say ‘no’ to a dish of cold cuts paired with some Vernaccia?