Heroic mountain viticulture: in Cupi, in the Sibillini Mountains, the highest vineyard in the Marche and among the highest in Italy
3 minutes
In the heart of the Monti Sibillini National Park, in the hamlet of Cupi (Visso, Macerata), lies one of the highest vineyards in Italy — a symbol of courage, dedication, and environmental stewardship. Here, an exceptional form of agriculture is carried out: heroic viticulture. This is no mere figure of speech; it represents a genuine, daily challenge against the rigours of mountain life. At over 1,000 metres above sea level, a distinctive grape variety flourishes: the Vissanello, an ancient native cultivar and early relative of Pecorino.
In every sip of wine from this land, you taste the full expression of the winemaking tradition of the Marche uplands, long rooted in the culture of “shepherd’s wine.”
What is heroic viticulture?
The term heroic viticulture is not just a poetic expression, but a technical definition officially recognised by CERVIM (the Research Centre for Mountain Viticulture). It applies to vineyards that meet at least one of the following criteria:
- they are located at an altitude above 500 metres above sea level;
- they grow on slopes steeper than 30%;
- they are located on terraces or in areas that are inaccessible to machinery;
- they are found on small islands or in areas of exceptional landscape and environmental value.
The vineyards of Cupi di Visso, located in the heart of the Monti Sibillini National Park, sit at over 1,000 metres above sea level and fully meet these criteria. Working conditions are challenging, agricultural machinery is often unusable, and yields are lower than those in lowland areas. And yet, the wines produced here are of exceptional quality and deeply rooted in their place of origin.
A rare example in the Marche (and in Italy)
High-altitude vine growing is unusual in central Italy and a true rarity in the Marche. To see the region’s only example of heroic viticulture, you need to head to the Monti Sibillini National Park, and more precisely to Cupi di Visso. Here, a group of visionary winegrowers has taken on the challenge of reviving ancient, long-abandoned plots, facing harsh weather, high elevation and complex logistics. Their aim is to restore the land and produce wines that faithfully reflect the character of the mountain landscape.
The vines here grow slowly in extreme conditions and develop complex aromas, balanced acidity and great finesse, all typical of high-altitude wines. As is often the case in winegrowing, native grape varieties are used here for their resilience and adaptability, and are vinified using traditional, sustainable methods. This is why heroic viticulture is not suited to large-scale production. Quantities are limited, but each bottle tells a story.
One local highlight is the Vissanello, an ancient native grape that has been rediscovered from ungrafted vines over 130 years old.
Vissanello: a viticultural legacy of the Sibillini Mountains
Vissanello is an ancient variant of Pecorino, a centuries-old native grape from the village of Cupi, in the Visso area, from which it takes its name. This precious grape, which has survived on its own roots, was recovered from a site still active near the village, where it had grown in the traditional style, trained to field maples. Still productive today, it stands as a living testament to an ancient way of vine cultivation.
Shaped by the harsh climate and limestone soils of the Sibillini Mountains, these vines produce a wine with a distinctive profile: intense, structured and full of character. Every sip offers a pure, striking expression of the local terroir.
Heroic winemaking in Cupi does not end with Vissanello. The area also produces other local treasures such as traditional-method sparkling wines made from vintage Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all made with care and in limited quantities.
A visit to the local wineries becomes a tasting journey that tells the story of a truly unique land.
Wine, landscape and identity
Walking among the Cupi vineyards means entering a fragile and precious ecosystem, where people act as guardians of a delicate balance between agricultural production and biodiversity conservation.
The vines overlook breathtaking views of pastures, beech woods and wild ridges, with the outline of the Sibillini Mountains framing the scene.
Tasting the wines of this land is a way to experience a truly authentic rural world, where winegrowing is deeply interwoven with nature and history.
This age-old story has become one of care for the landscape and the communities who live there. It is a virtuous model of agriculture that counters rural depopulation, values local knowledge and promotes sustainable, experience-based tourism.
Travellers who choose to venture off the beaten track already know this: the mountains reward the most curious souls, and the Sibillini are no exception!
After an unforgettable day of breathtaking views and restorative silence, the real surprise is the toast at altitude, shared with Cupi’s heroic wines. It is a true insider’s moment, authentic, unexpected and one to remember.
