Rimini: places in the life and films of Federico Fellini

Fellini was born in Rimini, in his house at 60 Via Dardanelli, in 1920. Legend has it that at 9:30 p.m., the moment when little Federico came into the world, lightning struck the building.
However, it was during his youth that the genius of cinema first began to shine, such as during his carefree school days at the same secondary school that would also attended by Titta, the protagonist of Fellini’s most famous film, Amarcord (1973). Not far from the school is the Gambalunga Library. We don’t whether if Fellini ever spent time there, but inside you’ll find the city’s film library and a valuable archive of Fellini’s works, including posters, original documents, set photos, drawings and screenplays.
Afterwards, explore the streets and squares that provided the backdrop to Fellini’s carefree days, becoming the setting for some of the most famous scenes in Amarcord. Stroll along Via Dante, where historic shops and cafés bring to life the atmosphere evoked in the film, before reaching Piazza Cavour, a vibrant hub of city life. The square is also home to the famous  Fontana della Pigna, a recurring element in the film and the background to the snowfall scene, when the boys have fun throwing snowballs at Gradisca. The square was rebuilt in  Cinecittà  for the filming, where the most famous scenes in the film were shot.  

Piazza Malatesta (SEE ENTRY IN DESTINATIONS FILE) is one of the beating hearts of Rimini. Recently renovated, the square is an elegant and lively space, surrounded by historic cafés and buildings of architectural significance, perfectly reflecting the energy and dynamism that Fellini captured in his films.
Piazza Malatesta is overlooked by the beautiful and imposing Castel Sismondo, also known as Rocca Malatestiana, the city’s most famous and iconic fortress. Built in the 15th century at the behest of Sigismondo Malatesta, this castle is a masterpiece of military architecture and a silent witness to the historical events of Rimini.
During the director’s childhood, a circus was often set up in the space in front of the fortress. He was so fascinated by it that one day he even ran away from home to go and see the show, and he remained permanently enchanted by its bizarre, nostalgic characters. Fellini wrote about his first experience of the circus: “This exhilaration, this excitement, this elation, this immediate feeling of being at home, I felt it right away, the first time I entered a circus tent; and it wasn’t even showtime [...] no, it was early in the morning and under the golden big top, which breathed softly like a big, warm, welcoming belly, there was no one there. There was a long, enchanted silence, and from afar came the voice of a woman singing as she beat the laundry […] I was spellbound, suspended, like an astronaut abandoned on the moon who finds his spaceship again.”
For this very reason, Fellini chose to pay homage to the castle in his film The Clowns (1970). We see it in the opening sequence: the camera focuses on a circus tent set up in front of a fortress that looks just like the Malatesta Fortress.
Today, Castel Sismondo houses the Fellini Museum, a cultural centre and local institution. The museum offers guided tours in the footsteps of Fellini and a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Rimini-born director.

“My mother took me to the cinema, not because I wanted to go, but because she wanted to: she felt like going to the cinema and took me along. I have no idea what film it was, but I remember a series of fabulous images that I immediately loved. Even before I began to understand what I was seeing, I knew it was something wonderful,” Fellini recalled. That’s why a trip to the cinema is a must on this itinerary.
After visiting the Fellini Museum in Castel Sismondo, head towards Corso d’Augusto and you will reach Palazzo Valloni, which houses the Fulgor Cinema, part of the museum complex dedicated to the director.
This cinema was crucial to Fellini’s artistic development: the small, charming auditorium, with its retro design and elegant decorations, screened the films that provided the director’s earliest cinematic inspiration. In its auditoriums, Fellini recalled seeing Maciste in Hell as a young boy, sitting on his father’s lap. Later, as a teenager, he created promotional portraits and posters in exchange for free tickets to evening shows.
 In 2018, the cinema underwent a major, meticulous restoration, overseen by Oscar-winning art director and Fellini’s long-time collaborator, set designer and costume designer, Dante Ferretti. The renovation has brought the original Art Nouveau architecture back to life, and the auditoriums, named after Fellini and his muse Giulietta Masina, continue to pay homage to the master of cinema.

The picturesque Borgo San Giuliano is located on the northern bank of the  Marecchia river. To get there, continue walking along Corso d’Augusto from the Fulgor Cinema and cross the Tiberio bridge, which overlooks the Rimini canal.
This neighbourhood is unlike anything else in Rimini; it almost seems like a world apart. In stark contrast to the bustling life of the Riviera, San Giuliano charms visitors with its cobbled streets, colourful houses, the beautiful church of San Giuliano Martire, the slow pace of everyday life and the vibrant murals created by local and international artists celebrating local life and paying homage to Fellini and his films.
The walls of the houses are decorated with evocative images from his most famous films, including Amarcord, 8½ and La Dolce Vita. The scenes depicted include legendary characters such as Gradisca, Scureza and Volpina, iconic locations and memorable moments. The first murals were painted on the oldest and most dilapidated houses, and some have been lost or covered up by others, but many still remain.
The most striking murals include one depicting Gelsomina, the character played by Giulietta Masina in La Strada, and a portrait of Fellini himself, smiling under a top hat. 

“Murders, kidnappings, crazy love-filled nights, blackmail, suicide, the garden of torture, the Goddess Kali, it all happened at the Grand Hotel. On summer evenings the Grand Hotel would turn into an Istanbul, a Baghdad, or Hollywood. On the terraces sheltered by thick rows of plants, Ziegfield parties probably took place. You could catch a glimpse of the bare backs of ladies that looked golden to us, surrounded by the arms of men in white dinner jackets. Now and then a scented breeze conveyed languid, syncopated notes that made us feel quite faint”. This is how Fellini describes the Grand Hotel, an icon of luxury and refinement, overlooking the Romagna coast.
From Borgo San Giuliano, walk along the canal that crosses the city to reach this majestic Art Nouveau building that dates back to 1908. Whenever Fellini returned to Rimini from Rome, he always stayed here, in suite 315, kindly made available to him by his friend and then-owner Cavalier Pietro Arpesella. Fellini trod the ancient floors and admired those sumptuous halls that had fascinated him since his youth, when he was penniless and could only dream of staying at the Grand Hotel. Much like Titta Biondi, the protagonist of Amarcord, who lurks behind hedges observing the comfortable lives of the rich. 

The last stop on this itinerary is Rimini’s Monumental Cemetery. Here, Federico Fellini rests next to his wife Giulietta Masina and their son Pier Federico, who died shortly after birth. Fellini’s tomb is adorned with a tribute commissioned by the city of Rimini, a monumental bronze sculpture by sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, representing the bow of a ship. The work, entitled La Grande Prua, was inspired by two of Fellini’s films: And the Ship Sails On (1983) and Amarcord (1973). Pomodoro explained the work as follows: “The bow of the ship seems to cut an ideal path through land, water and air: for me, it represents the very greatness and glory of Fellini’s work.”
The elegant and futuristic appearance of the sculpture symbolises the eternal journey and Fellini’s connection with the sea, reflecting the theme of travel and discovery that recurs throughout his filmography. The bow of the ship stands as a symbol of exploration and infinity, welcoming visitors in a moment of contemplation and respect. The monumental cemetery, immersed in an atmosphere of tranquillity and solemnity, is the ideal place to reflect on the director’s legacy and pay tribute to his memory in an environment of sober beauty.