If Italy were a house, Friuli Venezia Giulia would be the cellar

Friuli Venezia Giulia has a long-standing tradition of pork processing, which is a constant feature of the region's culinary heritage and the basis for a wide variety of dishes and recipes. Historically, in the Friulian countryside, pigs were kept in every household and provided a vital source of protein for family life. When the pigs were slaughtered, between November and February, skilled butchers would produce delicious cured meats and cuts of meat. Although domestic pig farming has almost disappeared, the tradition of pork production has not been lost, and today, in local eateries, you can enjoy typical Friulian salami, made from selected meat mixed with lard and spices, as well as classic sausages, soppressa, pancetta, lard, marcundela and musetto.

However, the undisputed king of flavour remains San Daniele ham, appreciated worldwide for its mildness, yet closely tied to its homeland. Its production is based on two simple ingredients: high-quality, carefully selected Italian pork legs and sea salt. However, it is the climatic characteristics of the region and the expertise of the artisans that make this excellent product unique, while also ensuring the continuity of a production process that has remained unchanged for centuries. Processing and curing take place exclusively in the municipality of San Daniele del Friuli, which benefits from a unique microclimate: the combination of the fresh air from the Alps and the mild air from the Adriatic Sea creates a gentle, constant breeze, which is essential for curing prosciutto. This is one of the reasons why it is said that the secret of San Daniele prosciutto is San Daniele itself. Recognised by the Italian State as a product with Designation of Origin status since 1970 and by the European Union as a product with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status since 1996, Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO is distinguished by its characteristic guitar shape and the presence of the trotter. In addition to preserving the integrity of the leg, this latter feature helps to promote the drainage of moisture, thereby facilitating the curing process. Since 1961, the protection of the San Daniele PDO brand and the San Daniele ham itself has been entrusted to the San Daniele Ham Consortium. Established at the behest of a group of producers, entrepreneurs and representatives of the local community, the Consortium brings together the thirty-one factories that, exclusively in San Daniele del Friuli, are authorised to produce San Daniele PDO prosciutto.

Perhaps less well known, but equally delicious, is the smoked ham from Sauris, a charming village located 1,200 metres above sea level. It is a soft and delicate ham, the result of an ancient tradition that combines Nordic smoking over beech wood with Latin-style salting. Produced with care and cured for at least 10 months, it has a mellow flavour, perfect for those seeking authentic, history-rich flavours. Since 2009, it has been protected by the PGI designation, a testament to its deep and unbreakable bond with the local area.

Another PGI product is pitina, a type of flattened meat patty made by mixing the lean parts of sheep and goat meat, which originated in the mid-19th century out of the need to preserve the meat of animals that were no longer productive. The processing method involves the addition of salt and herbs, 48 hours of smoking over various aromatic woods, and subsequent maturing for at least 30 days. Pitina PGI is not a sausage, as it is not encased in a casing but rather sprinkled with cornflour. When cut, the slices are deep red in colour, with a fine texture, a strong flavour and a subtle smoky note.

Finally, varhackara is a Slow Food Presidium: a mountain speciality whose traditional preparation survives in Timau, a small village in the Carnic Alps near the Austrian border. It is a pesto created to make the most of lard, containing trimmings of salami, smoked speck, guanciale, pancetta and ossocollo (pork neck) mixed with aromatic herbs. Its aroma is one of those you never forget. It has a soft, creamy texture and can be enjoyed spread on slices of rye bread or warm white bread croutons. 

In Friulian households, dairy cheese was and still is an essential item. Its history is linked to a past that forms part of family life. A characteristic feature of this area is the tradition of 'latterie turnarie', a system for managing milk collection among the small-scale farmers in each village, which enabled small-scale production but often of superb quality. While there are fewer dairy farmers today, the same cannot be said for the cheesemakers, who continue to produce artisanal cheeses that are in high demand among customers, delicatessens, taverns and restaurants. Indeed, there are several dozen dairy producers who continue to uphold the reputation for excellence that has always characterised Friulian cheeses. Cheeses that are definitely worth trying include formadi frant, made from crumbled alpine cheeses of various ages that are reworked with salt, pepper and cream, soft, fresh goat's milk cheeses, caciotta caprina, a rich, semi-hard goat's milk cheese, and mature goat's milk cheese, which is crumbly and has a strong flavour. Not to be missed are the specialities made from raw cow's milk processed in alpine dairies at an altitude of 1,500 metres.

Of all the regional cheeses, Montasio PDO stands at the top of the podium: it takes its name from the Montasio massif in the Julian Alps, on whose pastures it was originally produced. It is said that the production techniques were passed down and refined from the 13th century onwards, thanks to the efforts of the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of San Gallo, located in Moggio Udinese on the northern slope of Mount Montasio. The monks’ techniques became widely adopted in the valleys throughout Carnia and, over the past two and a half centuries, across the entire Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. Montasio PDO is a large, cooked, semi-hard cow's milk cheese with a mellow, delicate and balanced flavour, without any excess. Particularly easy to digest, as it is naturally lactose-free, it can be enjoyed by everyone. This extraordinary product can be found in four different types, corresponding to its various ageing periods: fresh (aged 60 to 120 days), with a mellow, delicate flavour; semi-mature (aged 5 to 10 months), with a full, distinctive taste; mature (aged over 10 months), pleasantly tangy; and extra-mature (aged over 18 months).

Cheese is also a key ingredient in a number of traditional dishes, starting with frico, the quintessential dish of Friulian cuisine: a potato and Montasio cheese pie that is soft and stringy inside but has a crispy crust, served with a warm slice of polenta. Tocj in braide, on the other hand, consists of soft, warm polenta served with a creamy sauce made from a unique combination of ingredients. Originally, leftover cheese from the household was used to make a fondue, to which cornflour toasted in butter in a pan was added. Finally, smoked ricotta is an essential accompaniment to pumpkin gnocchi and cjarsons, small pasta parcels that encapsulate the flavours of the Friulian mountains.

Friuli Venezia Giulia has an ancient bond with wine and viticulture: the region’s diverse and varied geographical and climatic characteristics, combined with its history, have shaped the unique features that characterise its wine-growing culture and the wealth of native and international grape varieties found throughout the area. Underlying certain aromas and the acidity is a soil with diverse characteristics, comprising mineral-rich marls and sandstones, karst rocks, or even soils of alluvial origin, which provides the foundation capable of imparting unmistakable characteristics to the grapes. Furthermore, the shelter provided by the Alpine range and the breezes from the Adriatic Sea create ideal temperature ranges for the development of aromas.

The variety of soils and climates has led to the designation of eight DOC areas and three regional DOCG areas. In the lowlands, Annia, Aquileia, Grave, Isonzo and Latisana; on the rocky Karst plateau and in the hilly areas of the Colli Orientali – with its three gems, Ramandolo, Friuli Picolit and Rosazzo, protected by DOCG status – and in the Collio area, which was the region’s first DOCG area. There are also the two interregional DOCs of Lison Pramaggiore and Prosecco. Each area produces highly prized wines with a distinctive character: Friulano, the region's flagship wine, Ribolla, Malvasia, Schioppettino, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso and Terrano.

Vine cultivation in this region underwent a profound transformation in the late 19th century, as a result of the decisions taken at the Fourth Austrian Wine Congress, held in 1891 in Gorizia, which was then part of the Habsburg Empire. The Congress changed the wine-growing history of Friuli Venezia Giulia through two major steps. The first was to combat phylloxera by grafting European varieties onto American rootstocks, which are immune to the pest. The second was the decision to introduce grape varieties, mainly of French origin, which, over the decades, have learned to express themselves to the highest degree thanks to the qualities of these terroirs. In the early 1970s, meanwhile, a revolution began in the style of white wine production, combining power and elegance with clean aromas. Within a few years, quality standards were surpassed, set aside and rewritten. It was not long before some producers began replanting and promoting native varieties, anticipating a trend that was to become established. Today, Friuli Venezia Giulia produces some of the world's finest white wines every year.