Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Le città storiche e i borghi ricchi di identità, i luoghi napoleonici e quelli della Grande Guerra, la natura a tutto tondo e perfino il volo scenografico delle Frecce Tricolori: 5 itinerari per assaporare lentamente il Friuli Venezia Giulia in bici da strada e da corsa, mtb e ebike, per tutti i gradi di allenamento. Percorsi che ospiteranno anche il passaggio del Giro d’Italia.

You are some distance away from the Lagoon of the Serenissima, but along this route, which is known as the Friuli Pedemontana, you will still travel through a world of water, made up of bubbling springs, river parks, old towns brought to life by streams and canals. For thousands of years, the Livenza river has fed the life and civilisation of Sacile and Polcenigo, and further on, the strip between Maniago and Meduno is crossed by the Cellina and Meduna waters. The beautiful historic centre of Spilimbergo, the final destination, is halfway between the Meduna and the course of the great Tagliamento river that divides Friuli in two. In Friulian, the Tagliamento is "l'Aghe", i.e. the "Water" par excellence. The west of Pordenone lies on this side of the "Acqua", the east of Udine on the other side. At many points along the route, it is possible to ascend the road and then walk in the mountains just higher up, in winter on skis in Piancavallo and in summer with pedule (i.e. mountain walking shoes) on your feet among the alpine pastures of the Tramontina valley. Here, however, there is also water: Lake Barcis and the lakes of Tramonti may be artificial, but that doesn't make their stretches of blue any less engaging. This all means that you should never be surprised by the Lions of St Mark frescoed or carved here and there. For centuries, Friuli was under Venice. The channelling techniques that have kept the Lagoon alive are not so different from those used to keep the Livenza at bay. The palaces of Polcenigo and Aviano have the same architecture as the Venetian villas along the Brenta. The double lancet windows and wall frescoes on the façades of Spilimbergo could belong on the Grand Canal, and more than a little of the wine that has always been drunk in Venetian bàcari along the salizade and calli still comes from here: from Friuli.

A single cross-border European city: Nova Gorica-Gorizia is the first European Capital of Culture awarded to two cities in two different countries (Slovenia and Italy) that shared the drama of the “short century” and found the strength to overcome borders and build a new future. GO!2025 is a project that challenges the concepts of borders and nationality, proposing collaboration between two cross-border cities and finding added value in their differences. After years of divisions and geopolitical changes that have marked the history of the two cities – on the one hand Nova Gorica, a new city with a modern urban design built in the aftermath of the Second World War, and on the other the ancient Gorizia, a cultural and administrative centre with a Central European history – a project has been created whose soul lies precisely in overcoming barriers, the cornerstone around which the cultural and artistic programme of GO!2025 revolves, with proposals that focus on connection and collaboration, promoting a common identity as a legacy for future generations.

Qui la natura regna sovrana. Avvolta dalle Alpi Carniche e dalle sue cime, molte delle quali superano i 2.000 metri, la Carnia ha una radicata cultura identitaria e un grande patrimonio paesaggistico che esprimono, come la gente di questi luoghi, una forte personalità. Le sue vette, il corso del Tagliamento, le vallate, le cascate, i canyon, i laghi d’alta quota, i borghi e i paesi danno forma a un paesaggio “del Nord” dai tratti originali, dove la dolcezza delle vedute alpestri e le asperità delle montagne dialogano fra loro creando un unicum originale e armonioso. Ambienti ideali per vivere questa parte di Friuli-Venezia Giulia en plein air, tra trekking, sport invernali, arrampicate e altre attività adrenaliniche. I borghi con le loro architetture, i sapori locali, le feste della tradizione parlano tutti di un luogo peculiare e “appartato”, orgoglioso delle proprie radici, divenute oggi risorse per un turismo gratificante e armonico. Testimone d’eccellenza di queste qualità uno dei più grandi poeti italiani, affezionato frequentatore di queste terre: Giosuè Carducci.

Welcome to the table in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a balanced fusion of Hapsburg and Slavic traditions in the Trieste and Gorizia area, of shepherding traditions in Carnia, and of rural culture in Friuli. The festival opens with two dishes that are representative of the region: Frico, made with potatoes, cheese and onions, and Jota, a soup of potatoes, beans and cabbage. Another typical dish are gnocchi, risottos and filled pastas, such as Carnia's cjarsons, made of herbs, potatoes, sultanas and cinnamon. Second courses include Brovade (white turnip) and muset (sausage similar to cotechino), Carnia shin, and the internationally appreciated San Daniele ham. The maritime side of the region is expressed with fish boreto alla Gradese, cod in white condiment, “sardoni impanai” (a variety of blue fish caught in the gulf of Trieste), Trieste-style spider crabs. Try among the cheeses Montasio, Fagagna and Frant. Move on to desserts, such as Pinza triestina, an Easter dish, presnitz, a dessert from Trieste and Gorizia made of puff pastry rolled up with a filling of walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, figs, plums and apricots, Putizza, from the Carso area, bujadnik, a sort of biscuit cake, prepared at Christmas. The wines are another gem of the area, all worth tasting.

Its grand Habsburg past and the mixing of languages, peoples and religions have given it an international flavour, on top of its Central European and Mediterranean soul. The dry, powerful bora wind sometimes blows, swooping down from the plateau into the gulf, sweeping through the streets and lashing the sea, with gusts that can exceed 150 or 160 kilometres per hour. Trieste is also the city of coffee, being a free port for its importation since the 18th century. Not only a city of commerce, it is also a culture hub, with charmingly retro literary cafés that once hosted the likes of Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba and James Joyce, and are today frequented by contemporary intellectuals.

Arta Terme, the pearl of Carnia, combining wellness, alpine itineraries and archaic cults A small Friulian town in the province of Udine, 442 metres above sea level, 10 kilometres from the Austrian border and 20 from the Slovenian border: there are many reasons to visit Arta Terme. The town, nestled in the Valle del But that connects Tolmezzo to Austria via the Passo di Monte Croce Carnico pass, has been renowned for its waters since Roman times. The sulphurous water gushes from the Fonte Pudia spring, which has been providing cures and wellbeing for centuries, and has also made Arta a popular spa resort, the perfect place to rejuvenate the body and spirit, and the ideal starting point for walks and hikes among the malghe (shepherd's huts) and mountain huts. The Arta Thermal Baths and its portentous waters, loved by Carducci Enclosed in a green basin, the Arta Thermal Baths are located within a complex, the Water Palace, formed by two connected buildings. The first, dating back to the 1960s and designed by architect Gino Valle, features an oriental-style roof; the second is more recently built. Its rooms invite you to relax among the saunas and Turkish baths or to recharge your batteries under the sensory showers and along the Kneipp path. Surrounding it is a beautiful park where you can enjoy mini-golf, tennis, or freshen up in the swimming pool with hydromassage. A word of advice: don't be put off by the intense sulphurous odour of the waters flowing from Fonte Pudia, whose name originates from the Latin participle putens and alludes to its not particularly pleasant odour, because it is precisely because of the wealth of minerals in its waters that the Arta Thermal Baths are able to offer highly specialised treatment and rehabilitation courses for various ailments, especially those of the airways. In fact, for centuries their medicinal properties have attracted tourists and patients to the Carnic locality: among the most famous personalities is Giosuè Carducci, who dedicated one of his poems, Il comune rustico (The Rustic Municipality), to Arta. Excursions amid history and spectacular views Piano d'Arta, a few kilometres from Arta Terme, is an excellent starting point for a series of walks that will allow you to better discover the area. If you enjoy trekking, the first destination you should tackle is without a doubt Mount Zoncolan, one of Friuli Venezia Giulia's best-known mountain settings, home to a well-known ski resort in winter and criss-crossed in summer by panoramic itineraries, amidst flower-filled pastures, woods and malghe (shepherd's huts). You should not miss, in the vicinity of Arta Terme, the town of Zuglio, the ancient Iulium Carnicum, a flourishing economic and trade centre in Roman times, founded between 58 and 40 B.C., which became a colony in the 1st century A.D.. Close to its Archaeological Museum, you will be able to admire the remains of the Roman forum and artefacts found during archaeological excavations. On the road back to Arta, also worth a visit for its architectural merit is the parish church of San Pietro near Zuglio, a Gothic church built on the site of an earlier Romanesque parish church, the windows of which still survive. Inside, the church preserves a wooden altar by Domenico da Tolmezzo, a masterpiece of Renaissance art, as well as a Baroque organ, and two canvases painted between the 16th and 18th centuries, portraying the conversion of St. Peter and the handing over of the keys to the Saint. Discovering ancient Carnic traditions It is precisely in this parish church that every year, to mark the feast of the Ascension, the so-called Kissing of the Crosses takes place. This is one of the most cherished sacred festivities, dating back to a very ancient cult, probably of mediaeval origin: following a series of paths through the woods, the faithful carry in procession to the parish church of San Pietro the precious astylar crosses, crucifixes for procession placed on a pole, which are stored throughout the year in the churches of the nearby valleys. And if you pass through Arta Terme during the Christmas festivities, as well as visiting the Christmas market, you will be able to experience an ancient Carnic tradition that is celebrated every year, from 26 December until the Epiphany: that of the Stele di Nadal, a procession of believers led by the Three Wise Men who, singing songs and holding a wooden star decorated with coloured paper bows and a lamp in the centre, go from house to house to herald the birth of the Saviour. And at the table, cjarsòns, a dish that is a symbol of Carnic tradition You cannot leave without being enticed by the delights of Friuli's gastronomic tradition. In the local shops you can buy honey, plum and pear distillates, cheeses and, above all, the typical cjarsòns, one of Carnia's signature dishes: handmade agnolotti stuffed with officinal herbs and spices, usually topped with melted butter and smoked ricotta. There is a festival is dedicated to cjarsòns, which is held every year on the first Sunday in August in Arta Terme, in the locality of Val Rivalpo.

There are many monuments and places of interest, from the imposing Rocca fort to the church dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, as well as the “Karst House” of Rupingrande and the ritual of the “Karstic Wedding”.

Halfway between Venice and Trieste (in the Province of Udine) lies Lignano Sabbiadoro. Given its natural characteristics – along 5 miles of fine-sand beaches – and its excellent lodging structures, this tiny Friulian Comune has obtained a number of important national and international recognitions, particularly the famous Blue Flag.

Always faithful to its characteristics as a garden city, where greenery blends perfectly with Central European buildings, Gorizia cannot be imagined without its parks, a must-see destination for those who want to learn more about its history.

Elegant villages and natural beauty An elegant city in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Pordenone encompasses a quiet historic centre rich in historical and artistic beauty. Stroll down Corso Vittorio Emanuele in the shadow of the arcades, among the longest in Europe. Stop for a coffee in Piazza Cavour, the heart of city life, and admire the facades of the Palazzo Comunale and St Mark's Cathedral. It is impossible not to notice its Gothic-style bell tower, a full 72 metres high. On the outskirts of Pordenone, visit some of the most beautiful villages in northern Italy, such as Sacile, on the Livenza river, and Polcenigo, surrounded by greenery. In San Vito al Tagliamento you can admire what remains of the medieval village, such as the moat and the frescoed castle. For a relaxing moment away from the city, head for Lake Barcis. This corner of paradise, set in the Friulian Dolomites Natural Park, is the perfect place for those who enjoy sports such as sailing, surfing and canoeing, as well as hiking and mountain biking. And lastly, to enjoy typical Friulian cuisine, try the Frico with polenta and salami with vinegar: truly traditional flavours.

In this microcosm which illustrates the marine dimension of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy the didactic installation present at the time the aquarium was originally conceived in the 1930s has been preserved.

With its slopes and mountain huts, especially popular among international tourists, the Tarvisio ski resort, surrounded by the Julian Alps and perched between the borders of Italy, Austria and Slovenia, is the ideal destination for fans of alpine skiing and snow activities who like to enjoy a holiday off the beaten track.

Historic cities and characteristic villages, places associated with Napoleon and the Great War immersed in nature and even the scenic flight of the Frecce Tricolori: Five slow itineraries to savour Friuli Venezia Giulia on standard and racing bikes, MTBs and ebikes for all levels of fitness. These routes will also welcome stages of the Giro d'Italia.

A splendid region on the border with Austria and Slovenia, Friuli is the perfect destination not only for trips to discover the sea, history and cuisine, but also to rediscover a deep connection with the land and nature thanks to an almost endless list of wonderful parks, lagoons, nature reserves and mountains. Sportland provides a total immersion experience in the greenery and relaxation of the North East region: an unspoilt area and an ideal destination at any time of the year. Here you can put your physical performance to the test with numerous activities that unite sport and attention to environmental sustainability.

A day at altitude, that is, at tree height, perfectly integrated in nature, will change your perspective, put yourself to the test, and strengthen your perception of yourself and the space around you. It will also strengthen team, class or family spirit, while you have loads of fun, of course. These are the principles that inspire the Trieste adventure Park, a high-adrenaline adventure park, suitable for young and old, in the heart of the Trieste Karst, set in forests of black pine, holm oak and alder.

You go through gorges and ravines to explore by abseiling, climbing along rock faces and diving into the cool waters of the most impetuous rivers. When the gorges become narrow and the light filters in from afar, high up there, you really have the impression of being inside the mountain disclosing all its secrets only to those who are daring enough to go looking for them.

Taking things at a slow pace in the immensity of nature helps us find our vital rhythms: here are five treks in Northern Italy to be enjoyed on foot or mountain bike. There are hospitality facilities accessed with "credentials" - a kind of travel passport that documents and facilitates the experience.

Umberto Saba speaking of his city said, 'Trieste has a surly grace'. Indeed, he fully captured its soul: a meeting point between two worlds, Mitteleuropean at heart, borderland par excellence with a deeply melancholic streak. Trieste is waiting to be discovered: to really get to know it is perhaps impossible, but an alternative route, from a different point of view, is the one that covers its works of street art. In fact, scattered in different parts of the city, you can find the beautiful murals of Trieste created by international artists to redevelop areas in a state of neglect.

This is another way to visit Italian cities: caves and hypogea rich in archaeological finds, catacombs and ancient foundations, cisterns and archaic hydraulic systems. There is a whole underwater world waiting to be discovered, from Turin to Naples, from Rome to Agrigento. An underground Italy that delivers unique emotions. And autumn has in store a calendar of events for interesting underground visits.

The traditional 19th-century theater that is a symbol of Trieste It is Trieste’s main opera and ballet theater. Among the oldest spaces still in activity, the theater dates back to 1800, its structure consisting mainly of 2 auditoriums, the Sala del Teatro Verdi and the Sala Ridotto. It copies the architecture of the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, built by Giuseppe Piermarini. The Teatro Lirico has been the symbol of the city’s Italian cultural identity and, at the same time, interpreter of the cosmopolitanism of Trieste, making the works of Central European composers known to all. Melodramas, dances, comedies and dramas have all been performed at the Teatro Lirico, which has hosted the greats of music such as Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and the works of Maestro Verdi. This space, with its two long centuries of history, is today one of the identifying symbols of the city of Trieste, and it has always offered an intensive program of artistic and musical activities, best seen in its seasons of opera and ballet.

An ancient metropolis of the Roman Empire and later the main centre for the spread of Christianity in northern and eastern Europe, Aquileia today offers a unique and enthralling sightseeing experience. The extent of its archaeological area and the importance of the role played by its Patriarchal Basilica are the reasons for its inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

It is the National Temple to Mary Mother and Queen of Monte Grisa named after the hill that hosts it, three hundred metres above sea level. A monument that certainly does not go unnoticed, even at night, because it is always illuminated.

Retracing the footsteps of a barbarian people who greatly influenced the Italian Middle Ages is a very interesting exercise. Ready? Let’s go.