The Church of St John in Terracina: the Oldest Church (After the Cathedral), Hidden Beneath the Baroque
Just outside Porta Maggio, in Terracina, the Church of San Giovanni is one of the oldest places of worship in the town, alongside the Cathedral of San Cesareo (St Caesarious). Its origins go back to the 9th century, even though the medieval building was dedicated to St Lawrence. It became San Giovanni Battista ed Evangelista (St John the Baptist and St John the Evangelist), only in the 17th century, when it was renovated in the Baroque style.
What Remains of the Middle Ages
For two centuries — the 12th and 13th — San Lorenzo was the most important parish church in Terracina after the Cathedral. Then, in the 17th century, its radical late Baroque transformation erased almost all elements of the Romanesque building. The bell tower survives, flanked by the medieval presbytery and apsidal zone. The rest is 17th century: a single nave, side chapels, an elliptical dome over a raised presbytery, a choir loft on the counter-façade. The segmental barrel vault that once covered the nave was removed.
A Change of Name, a Change of Era
The new double dedication to the St Johns — Baptist and Evangelist — brought with it a new architectural face: four altars set against the walls, late Baroque decorations, and a layout typical of the Counter-Reformation.
Porta Maggio, formerly Porta San Lorenzo
The church stands outside Porta Maggio, which was once called Porta San Lorenzo. In Roman Terracina — when it was called Anxur of the Volsci — it was the Porta Maior, the main entrance pointing to the city of Rome.