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Church of St John by the Sea in Gaeta: a Byzantine dome, mismatched columns, and a sloping floor
The church of San Giovanni a Mare (St John by the Sea) was built between the late 11th century and the early 12th century on the site of an older place of worship, most likely from the 10th century, destroyed by the earthquake of 1213. For its reconstruction, old Roman columns were employed, all of varying sizes and featuring capitals of different architectural styles.
A rare example of a Byzantine dome in Italy
At the intersection of the central nave and the transept rises the dome, dating to the late 11th century. Its drum is adorned with elegant two-coloured marble inlays and hanging arches (or blind arches) in the Byzantine style. Very few examples of this type exist in Italy. From the alley on the left side of the church, the dome is visible in its entirety, with its Byzantine inlays and arches perfectly discernible.
The floor, the frescoes, and the sarcophagus
The presbytery (or chancel) is raised, and the floor is sloped to ensure a better perspective toward the altar. According to local folklore, this inclination also served to drain water during high tide events. The altar is fashioned from a sarcophagus of the 2nd-3rd century AD, featuring a medieval cross at the center between two hippogriff candle-holders. The walls and the left apse house frescoes from the 12th-14th centuries. Some were moved to the Diocesan Museum, while the Madonna Enthroned (Maestà) with Saints Michael, Gabriel, and John the Evangelist remains in its original location. During the latest restoration (2011-2015), 12th-century frescoes were also uncovered on the columns.
