Vino cotto, a treasured tradition
2 minutes
Widespread since the time of ancient Rome in various parts of Abruzzo, Marche, and other areas of central Italy, the reduced wine produced in Roccamontepiano – a small mountain town in the province of Chieti on the eastern side of the Maiella – is much more than a mere beverage. Tradition dictates that, upon the birth of a child, a barrel should be prepared to be kept over time, perhaps to be opened on the wedding day or when important guests visit.
Community pride: the Slow Food Praesidium
A source of pride for every family that produces it, vino cotto is obtained by heating and reducing wine must. Roccamontepiano’s vino cotto stands out not only for its distinctive preparation technique but also for its collective production model, in which the Maiella Verde Local Action Group provides the facility resources. This cooperation led to the establishment of a new Slow Food Praesidium, adding a prestigious recognition to the typical products of Abruzzo.
The magic of the reduction process
Generally made from Montepulciano d'Abruzzo grapes, the must is cooked at over 100 degrees for 7–12 hours, reducing its mass by about two-thirds, more than in other parts of Italy for similar preparations. The next topping stage adds fresh must in equal proportions to the reduced mass. "Assuming an initial availability of 100 litres of must, if 30 litres remain after the reduction, we must add another 70 litres of fresh material", explains Adamo Carulli, president of the Abruzzo Vino Cotto Association and Praesidium spokesman.
From must to bottle: fermentation, ageing, and unique flavours
After natural fermentation, the vino cotto is aged in wooden barrels. At least one must pass before the reduction is ready for consumption, but it may be further aged for decades, sometimes even up to 40 years. The high concentration of sugars gives the wine an alcohol content of around 15%, while ageing preserves its fragrance and enhances its quality. Vino cotto is the drink of conviviality: it is served with desserts or as a digestif, with an intense aroma, dry and savoury aftertaste, with colours ranging from dark amber to garnet red, to the characteristic "rooster's eye" hue. Most of the must promoted by the Praesidium becomes vino cotto, but it can also be used as an ingredient in traditional desserts. Participating producers are members of the Vino Cotto Cooperative Society, where each producer reduces the must and can take their own cooked wine home for personal consumption or label it for sale. Quantities are limited: approximately 1500 bottles, equivalent to ten quintals of vino cotto per year.
Tradition – innovation – craftsmanship
In the past, the must was reduced in large copper pots, "lu callare" and pieces of iron and terracotta plates were used to control the boil. Today, steel cauldrons with temperature control systems are used, but an old pot is kept as a historical reminder. Tradition is kept alive thanks to the great vino cotto festival, which brings the historic centre of Roccamontepiano to life every year at the beginning of November, with tastings, music, folklore, and woodland walks.
