Palermo

Overlooking the Mediterranean, during its long history the city experienced a long list of conquerors and noble dynasties, but it never lost its identity. Palermo - the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Sicily - charms everyone thanks to its cultural and architectural melting pot, well visible in each of the four "mandamenti" (districts) in which it is divided. Palaces and churches blend with the urban area creating a unique fabric, where the presence of the iconic city markets sets color and vitality in contrast with the austerity of the many noble palaces and monuments (many part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites). 48 hours therefore for a journey through thousands of years: we did it!

You have to know something here: there is no chance that you will be on holiday in Palermo, or even just passing through the city, without someone offering you 'u pani c'a meusa, looking at you ruefully when you raise an eyebrow as soon as you hear the translation of the name of this very popular street food: bread with spleen. It is a soft sesame bun, or cimmino as they say here, stuffed with calf spleen, lung and sometimes trachea, first boiled or steamed, then fried in sugna, or lard. And that is exactly the scent you will smell as you stroll through the old town and through the city markets.

With a unique artistic and architectural heritage, a sign of the many souls that have passed through it over the centuries, Palermo is a city with a thousand faces. One of these is the legacy left by the Norman Kingdom of Sicily (1130-1194), which led to the inscription of Arab-Norman Palermo among the undisputed wonders that are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Three churches, three cathedrals, two buildings, a bridge: these are the nine wonders of the Arab-Norman Palermo listed by UNESCO as World Heritage in 2015. Built during the Norman Kingdom of Sicily (1130-1194), these buildings are the result of a combination of different architectural and artistic traditions: Byzantine, Islam and Western, their fusion has given life to a unique style, proof of the fruitful coexistence between people of different origins.

The road, winding through the Mediterranean maquis and on scenic undulations along the northern coast of the island – known as Settentrionale Sicula – is the perfect route for riders tackling the first stage of the Giro di Sicilia Eolo 2022. In all, there are 199 kilometres with no major difficulties, to the delight of the sprinters who will cover the course in one go. But for those who are just bike enthusiasts, the route we are talking about here is an invitation to slow down the pace, to enjoy the lush nature and important historical traces. Watch out, however, not to be too distracted by the view: you are on a Statale road (No. 113), so keep your eyes on the road and, if you are with others, proceed in single file.

Maupassant escribió que "Sicilia es la tierra de las naranjas, de la tierra florida cuyo aire, en primavera, es todo perfume". Le darás la razón mientras paseas por la mítica tierra que todos querían conquistar por su belleza y riqueza. Uno de los tesoros que hay que descubrir son las naranjas sanguinas sicilianas. Se cultivan exclusivamente en la llanura de Catania y en partes de Enna y Siracusa y han recibido la insignia I. G. P. de la Unión Europea. A un sabor inimitable se unen también propiedades nutritivas muy particulares: ¡tienen todas las virtudes!

It is the largest island in the Mediterranean where art, history and culture intertwine in an astonishing mix that unravels from the sea to the mountains, passing through countryside and seaside villages: Sicily, dotted with priceless sites and Greek and Arab-Norman vestiges, sumptuously embellished by Baroque and blessed with a mild climate in every season, is a paradise you will not forget.

In the heart of baroque Palermo Piazza Villena, called Piazza dei Quattro Canti by the people of Palermo, was created in 1600 Palermo at the intersection of the opening of the new Via Maqueda with the pre-existing Via Vittorio Emanuele (the Cassaro). The creation of this intersection led to the division of the city into four parts, known as “Mandamenti”. The decoration of the "cantos" of each of the monumental buildings on the square, was completed in 1621 and develops in four overlapping façade orders, in a pattern that tells the story of the transition from earth to heaven from bottom to top. At the street level there are fountains representing the four rivers that flowed through the city long ago. The allegories of the four seasons are on the upper level topped by statues of four Spanish rulers, while the statues of the four patron saints of each mandament Agata, Ninfa, Oliva, and Cristina, before the advent of Santa Rosalia and Benedetto da San Fratello, are on the top level. The Square of the Four Songs is also known as the Theater of the Sun because at least one of the sides is bathed in sunlight throughout the whole day. Another name for the square is Theatre of the City because in past centuries it hosted important events, from festivals to executions. With its location and architectural features, it is an ideal starting point for learning about the history of the city and its oldest neighborhoods.

The oldest local market in Palermo The market of Piazza Caracciolo winds through alleys and adjacent streets, reflecting the true essence of the city, the energy and dynamism of the cosmopolitan culture of Palermo. Formerly called "la Bucceria" from the French "boucherie", or butcher's shop, since it was initially intended for the sale of meat. Because of the loud customary shouts and calls in markets, this term then became synonymous with noise, as well as with the sellers’ cries and the swarm of people in Palermo. By day, the Vuccirìa is a market where you can buy everything and anything, especially fruit, vegetables, fish and meat. But in the evening, it turns into Palermo’s nightlife meeting place always lively and full of fun, where music echoes until late at night and you can dine out on local delicacies.

The church known as "La Martorana" Located in the historic center of Palermo on Piazza Bellini, it was built in 1143 following the orders of George of Antioch, Grand Admiral of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies under Roger II. It was later merged with the nearby Benedictine convent founded by Goffredo and Eloisa Martorana, hence the alternative name of the church, known as the “Martorana”. It is the most Byzantine monument in Palermo although it has clear Islamic elements. The church has a cross-in-a-square ground plan, oriented with the apse to the east and the facade to the west because people were to pray toward the east, following the typical ritual of Byzantine churches. The choir is supported by columns from earlier Norman buildings, and the upper part of the walls and the dome are entirely covered with Byzantine mosaics, the oldest in Sicily and some of the most important in the world. The Church belongs to the Eparchy of Piana degli Albanesi, a Catholic diocese of the Greek-Byzantine rite of the Byzantine Church in Sicily, and you can often attend liturgical celebrations in Albanian or ancient Greek.

The Arab-Norman church with the red domes In the historic center of Palermo, just below the walls of the Royal Palace, stands San Giovanni degli Eremiti, a monumental complex founded by Roger II in 1132 that includes the Church, the "Arab Hall" and the Cloister. Its name comes from the ancient monastery of St. Ermete, which stood, in the time of Gregory the Great in the very same place. The church was designed according to Arab-Norman canons. The outside has a bare curtain wall but recalls eastern elements, cubic structures topped by hemispherical domes in a square-circle pattern representing earth and sky, a common theme in Islamic and Byzantine culture. In contrast to the outside, the church interior is sober with a standard structure and in a "commissa" cross layout. From inside the church, a small passageway leads to the "Arab Hall," probably dating back to a pre-existing Islamic mosque. Attached to the Church is the square-shaped Cloister, with double columns and adorned by a garden that retains a quiet sacredness.

The biggest opera house in Italy It is the largest opera house in Italy, third in size after the Paris Opera and Staatsoper in Vienna. The architectural complex is massive and the halls, galleries and elegant grand staircases make it a real attraction to visit. From the golden ornaments to the red brocade armchairs, antique mirrors, and Murano chandeliers, the theater stands out not only for its grandeur but also for its charm and elegance. The Great Hall of the theater, known for its perfect acoustics and for the Symbolic Wheel, an artistic and engineering masterpiece frescoed by Luigi di Giovanni, deserve special attention. The wheel features eleven trapezoidal panels boasting paintings on canvas, arranged in a wheel around a central round piece depicting the Triumph of Music. Through a system of ropes, the panels can be opened upwards allowing for ventilation of the room. Teatro Massimo is a theater of excellence for the opera, ballet and classical music concert seasons, combined with educational activities for schools and the possibility of guided tours.

The Stories of the Paladins of France at the Puppet Theatre Proclaimed Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2001, the Opera dei Pupi is a typical Sicilian form of performance still carried out according to tradition at the Carlo Magno Enzo Mancuso Theatre in Palermo. Son of an ancient dynasty of puppeteers, Enzo Mancuso has passionately devoted himself to the creation of characteristic puppets, according to ancient techniques, also staging the memorable exploits of the Paladins of France, since the age of 13. The exploits are inspired by the Carolingian Cycle, spanning the historical period between the death of Pepin the Short and that of Emperor Charlemagne and includes 'The Story of Hector and his Descendants', 'The Royals of France from Constantine to Charlemagne', 'The Story of the Paladins of France' and 'Saint Guido and the Descendants of Charlemagne'. Christian knights, Saracen fighters, ladies and pages: each character has his or her own costume, including ornamental robes and armour, where the insignia identifying the roles is fixed. Legs, arms and face are still made by hand, in wood, held together by an iron core, the movements are entrusted to cords. Animated by the voice of the puppeteer, they are the joy of young and old alike.