Ascoli Piceno: the city of travertine
Your journey through the Piceno area can begin in Ascoli Piceno, a town that will immediately captivate you with the elegance of its historic centre. As you walk through the cobbled streets, you will soon notice that almost everything is built from travertine, a light-coloured stone that changes hue with the light throughout the day, making the squares even brighter.
Start your visit in Piazza Arringo, the oldest square in the city. Here, you will find the Cathedral of Sant’Emidio and the Palazzo dell’Arengo, buildings that bear witness to centuries of Ascoli’s history. Pause for a few minutes to take in the square as a whole and the pale colour of the travertine that characterises much of the town’s architecture. If you have a little time, go right into the Palazzo dell’Arengo: inside is the Pinacoteca Civica di Ascoli Piceno, which houses works of great value, including masterpieces from the Venetian and Marche schools, such as those by Carlo Crivelli.
From here, continue on foot to Piazza del Popolo, the true heart of the city. It takes just a few minutes to walk through the historic centre, past medieval buildings and small shops. When you enter the square, you will probably stop spontaneously to take in the overall view: the space is large and harmonious, and all around it are the Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo, the Church of San Francesco and the elegant travertine porticoes.
For a break, stop under the porticoes of the historic Caffè Meletti. It is the ideal spot to stop, perhaps for a coffee or an aperitif, and watch the slow-paced life of the piazza. For lunch, stay in the area around the city centre. Here, you will find numerous trattorias where you can sample one of the city's best-known specialities: Ascoli-style stuffed olives, crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, often served alongside other traditional local fried dishes.
If you visit the city between the end of April and the beginning of May, you might also come across one of the most eagerly anticipated culinary events of the spring: Fritto Misto, an event dedicated to Italian fried food, featuring food stalls, tastings and dishes prepared by chefs from different regions. It is the perfect opportunity to sample not only Ascolana olives, but also many other fried specialities from Italian and international traditions.
After lunch, continue your walk towards the Porta Solestà Bridge, one of the city's most picturesque spots, which offers a beautiful view of the Tronto River and the historic city walls. Then, in the late afternoon, head back to Piazza del Popolo: as the light grows warmer, the travertine takes on golden hues, and the square acquires an even more enchanting atmosphere. Pause here for a moment, simply to take in the view of the city.
Offida: the village of lace and hills
After visiting Ascoli Piceno, take some time to drive through the Piceno hills. The road climbs gently through cultivated fields, past farmhouses and rows of vineyards. After about half an hour's journey, you will arrive in Offida, one of the most picturesque villages in this part of the Marche region, listed among the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.
The historic centre stands on a rocky outcrop between the Tesino and Tronto valleys and retains a cosy atmosphere, characterised by narrow streets, archways and small squares. Start your visit from Piazza del Popolo, the heart of the village. The square has a distinctive triangular shape and is surrounded by buildings of varying styles and materials.
On the main side stands the Offida Town Hall, which is easily recognisable by its Renaissance travertine loggia. From the town hall's portico, you can also access the Teatro Serpente Aureo, one of the most elegant small historic theatres in the Marche region. Just a short walk from the square, you can enter the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, the town's main church. The interior is spacious and bright, dominated by the large central dome and adorned with stucco work and artworks. If you have time, you can also descend to the crypt, where there is a small reproduction of the Grotto of Lourdes, created in the early 20th century.
As you stroll through the narrow streets of the town centre, you will soon realise how closely Offida is linked to the production of bobbin lace. In the doorways of houses or in small workshops, it is not uncommon to catch a glimpse of lacemakers at work with their wooden bobbin laces on embroidery cushions, a painstaking craft handed down through generations. Those interested in learning more about this traditional craft can visit the Lace Museum, which tells the story of an art still practised in Offida today.
A short walk outside the town centre will take you to the Church of Santa Maria della Rocca, which stands on a rocky outcrop just beyond the town walls. From here, you can enjoy one of the most beautiful views of the Marche countryside. Stroll along the viewing platform that surrounds the church: your gaze will sweep over a vast, tranquil landscape, one of those places that invites you to pause and spend a few moments in silence.
Before setting off again, treat yourself to a break in one of the bars or small wine bars in the town centre. And perhaps try something traditional, such as chichì ripieno, a focaccia filled with tuna, anchovies, capers and peppers, which is very popular in the local tradition.
Ripatransone: the belvedere of the Piceno area
As you continue through the Piceno hills, the landscape becomes increasingly open. The road passes through cultivated fields and vineyards, and small villages suddenly appear on the hilltops. After a few kilometres, you will reach Ripatransone, one of the most scenic towns in this part of the Marche region. It is no coincidence that Ripatransone is often referred to as the 'belvedere of the Piceno area': its location offers views of a vast landscape stretching from the hills to the Adriatic Sea.
Enter the historic centre through one of the medieval gateways and take your time as you stroll through the alleys, up and down the stairways and across the small squares. One of the town's most important sites is the square overlooked by the Co-Cathedral of Saints Gregory the Great and Margaret, the town's cathedral, which has been built and extended over the centuries. Ripatransone was an episcopal see for several centuries: in 1571, Pope Pius V established a diocese here, a rather unusual occurrence for a town of this size.
As you stroll through the narrow streets, you will also come across one of the town's best-known curiosities: the narrowest alley in Italy. It is tucked away among the houses in the town centre and measures just over forty centimetres at its narrowest point. Follow the small signs indicating the route: finding it is part of the fun.
Continuing your walk, you will come to several viewpoints along the town walls. From here, the view opens out over the countryside and, on clear days, extends as far as the Adriatic Sea.
Before leaving, stop at one of the village bars for a coffee or an aperitif. Sitting in the main square for a few minutes is the best way to soak up the peaceful atmosphere of this village and leisurely enjoy the surrounding landscape.
Grottammare: between the historic village and the Riviera delle Palme
As you continue towards the coast, the landscape gradually changes. The hills become lower, the horizon opens up, and suddenly, the sea appears. This is where you will find Grottammare, one of the most elegant resorts on the Riviera delle Palme.
Before reaching the seafront, climb up to Grotammare Alta, the historic village that overlooks the town from above and is one of Italy's Most Beautiful Villages. Leave your car just outside the town walls and continue on foot: within a few minutes, you will find yourself in a maze of narrow alleys, arches and small squares where time seems to pass more slowly.
As you stroll leisurely through the village's narrow streets, you will come to the Church of Santa Lucia, built at the end of the 16th century at the behest of Sixtus V on the site of the Peretti family home, where the future pope was born in 1521. It is one of the most important buildings in the village and bears witness to the connection between Grottammare and one of the most influential popes of the Renaissance.
Continuing through the village streets, you will reach Piazza Peretti, the heart of the village. Here, you will also find the Teatro dell’Arancio, an elegant historic theatre built at the end of the 18th century. Pause for a few minutes near the theatre's loggia: from here, the village opens out towards the coast, and your gaze sweeps along the Riviera delle Palme and the Adriatic Sea.
Before leaving the village, continue your walk towards the town walls until you reach the Torrione della Battaglia, a 16th-century defensive tower built to monitor the coast and defend the village from attacks from the sea. This is also a prime vantage point from which to enjoy the view before descending to the waterfront.
After exploring the village, make your way down to the Grottammare promenade, where a walk among palm trees, gardens and the beach takes you along the entire Riviera.
If it's almost dinnertime, choose one of the seaside restaurants and let yourself be guided by the traditional local seafood dishes. Brodetto alla Sambenedettese, for example, is one of the most characteristic dishes from the Piceno coast. After the villages and hills you have visited over the past few days, sitting by the sea is the perfect way to round off this itinerary.