Water, stone, silence: a meditative journey through gorges, hermitages and hidden sanctuaries

When you arrive in Genga, in the province of Ancona, you immediately realise that here, the mountains are not the backdrop: they are the star of the show. The limestone walls of the Gola della Rossa gorge close in around the valley, shaped over the centuries by the waters of the Sentino River flowing just below. The pale rock reflects the light, the air is clear, and the landscape has a distinct verticality that invites you to look upwards.

Follow Strada Provinciale 15, which crosses the gorge in the direction of the Frasassi Caves. You can leave your car in the signposted parking area near the start of the path leading to the Tempio del Valadier. From here, the path climbs for about 15–20 minutes – a short but steep enough ascent to encourage you to slow down. No special equipment is required: comfortable shoes are sufficient for a gentle but careful hike.

The path leads you into a large natural cavity. There, almost unexpectedly, the Tempio del Valadier appears. Built in 1828 at the behest of Pope Leo XII, it features elegant Neoclassical forms in light-coloured travertine, perfectly proportioned. It is not merely a scenic feature: it was created as a place of contemplation for pilgrims, a spiritual refuge within the rock. Pause to observe the contrast between the architecture and the cave: here, the stone does not dominate the building; it protects it.

A few steps higher up, you will find the Hermitage of Santa Maria Infra Saxa, which is documented as early as the 11th century. Older and more austere, it reflects a deliberate choice of seclusion: far from the valley, close to the rock that shelters it. From up here, the valley opens out below you, and the contrast between the cave and the surrounding landscape makes it clear why this place was chosen for its seclusion and its natural power.

After visiting the church, head back down to the valley floor. In around five minutes by car along the same provincial road, you will reach the Abbey of San Vittore alle Chiuse. You can park in the areas near the abbey.

Here, the landscape changes completely. The vertical nature of the cave gives way to a compact and harmonious architectural ensemble, built between the 11th and 12th centuries using local stone. The abbey stands near the Sentino River, in a location that over the centuries has favoured the presence of monks along the routes that crossed the gorge.

Externally, the building is striking for the balance of its Romanesque forms: simple volumes, semicircular apses and a minimalist bell tower. If you find the church open, it is worth going inside. The interior is simple, almost austere. Do not expect lavish decorations: here, the impact is created by the proportions and by the light that filters through the small windows, creating an intimate atmosphere that invites you to linger for a few minutes.

This is one of the most representative examples of Romanesque architecture in the Marche region and clearly marks the transition between the rock-dwelling spirituality of the morning and the monastic spirituality of the valley floor: after the cave, this is a pause that restores order.

If you still have time and energy, you can continue on to the Grottafucile Hermitage, in the hamlet of Castelletta, in the Fabriano area. In just a few minutes by car, you will reach the village of Castelletta, from where the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) trail starts, leading up to the hermitage; here, you can leave your car and continue on foot for 40–60 minutes along a natural path, with some uphill sections. The route is not technically demanding, but it does require suitable footwear and a little water.

Once you reach the top, you will not find a complete building. All that remains of the ancient complex are stone blocks, a wall with the original doorway, a vaulted roof and traces of the monks’ cells. The rest has been gradually reclaimed by the forest. Over the centuries, the hermitage was abandoned and stripped bare; today, the site is protected by the Gola della Rossa and Frasassi Park, which preserves the area.

Choosing to undertake this final excursion extends the day and requires a little more walking; skipping it does not alter the contemplative pace of the stage. On this journey, there is no ‘right’ choice: there is only the pace that feels right to you.

Leave Genga and head towards Fabriano, also in the province of Ancona. The historic centre, renowned for its paper-making tradition, remains in the background: today, we are heading up into the mountains. Follow the signs for Valle Romita and Campodonico; the road climbs gradually, traffic decreases, and the landscape becomes increasingly wooded.

In around 20 minutes, you will reach Valleremita, a small hamlet surrounded by greenery. Here you will find the Hermitage of Santa Maria di Valdisasso. You can park near the complex and walk the rest of the way. As soon as you get out of the car, the pace changes: the monastery stands in a natural basin, surrounded by meadows and woods that keep it away from the main roads.

This secluded location provides a good explanation for its history. Of early mediaeval origin, for centuries it was a place of retreat and a stopping point along the inland routes of the Apennines. According to tradition, St Francis also stayed here during his travels in the Marca.

The church and the monastery buildings are simple, constructed from local stone, and retain an intimate atmosphere. Today, the complex is home to a small Franciscan community and continues to be a place of prayer and hospitality.

It is also worth stopping to explore the surrounding area: the trails are easy and well-marked. It only takes a few steps into the woods to sense the tranquil atmosphere that has made this valley a place of spirituality for centuries.

After Valleremita, continue towards Poggio San Romualdo. The road winds through woods and over ridges, and in about twenty minutes by car, you will reach the valley where the Abbey of San Salvatore di Valdicastro stands. You can park nearby and walk the short distance to the abbey.

The setting is more open and mountainous: pastures, beech forests and hills close off the horizon like a vast natural amphitheatre. It was here, around the year 1000, that Saint Romuald initiated the foundation of a monastery that went on to become one of the most important centres of the Camaldolese movement in the Marche Apennines.

The abbey retains its mediaeval layout and maintains a sober character, characterised by stone, silence and enclosed spaces. Inside, you can still sense the atmosphere of the monastic life that brought this secluded place to life for centuries.

Today, the complex is privately owned and was restored in the early 2000s. Some of the spaces are used for agricultural and hospitality purposes, but the site retains its tranquil character, which is deeply rooted in the spiritual history of the Marche region.

If you still have time and feel like walking, you can continue your day with a short hike to the Acquarella Hermitage, just above the village of Albacina, in a wooded area on the border between Fabriano and Cerreto d’Esi. Leave your car near the start of the trail and continue on foot for about 40 minutes along a route marked by the CAI, with a moderate change in elevation. Although the section is not technically demanding, suitable footwear is required.

Also known as the ‘Romitella’, this small hermitage is linked to a significant event: in 1529, the first chapter of the Capuchin reform, a key step in the foundation of the Capuchin Order, was held here. Today, it remains a simple place, without any amenities, surrounded by greenery, where the only constant sound is that of the water flowing nearby.

Leaving the Fabriano mountains behind, you cross the border between the provinces of Ancona and Macerata and descend towards Esanatoglia. The village is compact, with stone houses clustered around the historic centre. Take a few minutes to wander through the streets: this will help you understand the relationship between the village and the hill that towers above it.

Then, from the centre, follow the signs for the Hermitage of San Cataldo along the road that climbs towards Monte Corsegno. You can drive to a dirt clearing located just below the hermitage; alternatively, you can park further down and continue on foot along the main road. From the point where the Way of the Cross begins, the climb takes around 20–30 minutes, with a short but steep gradient. However, if you park your car in the upper clearing, the walk is much shorter. Along the way, you will encounter the fourteen stations of the Way of the Cross: the journey is not only a physical one, but also intended as a meditative itinerary.

Once you reach the top, you will understand that this place was not chosen solely for prayer. The hermitage stands on a prominent hill, also linked to the presence of an ancient mediaeval watchtower: from here, the roads between Fabriano, Matelica and Camerino were monitored. Before it became a place of spirituality, it was a stronghold.

Here, the rock does not shelter you in a cave; instead, it exposes you to the landscape. The hermitage overlooks the valley from above, and the silence of the mountains accompanies your visit.

On the final day, you will travel to the heart of the Sibillini Mountains, in the province of Fermo. Reach Montefortino and continue towards the hamlet of Rubbiano, following the signs for the Gola dell’Infernaccio. The road becomes narrower: proceed with caution until you reach the Piazzale di Valleria, where you can park your car. This is where the trail begins.

The trail descends briefly towards the Tenna River, crosses a small bridge and enters the Gola dell’Infernaccio. The limestone walls gradually close in, and the water accompanies your progress with a constant murmur. It is one of the most popular routes in the Sibillini Mountains, but it still offers a truly stunning natural experience.

The climb to the hermitage takes about an hour and a half, with an elevation gain of just under 300 metres. While this is not a technically demanding hike, it is still a mountain hike: trekking shoes and a steady pace are required. After the narrowest section of the gorge, the landscape opens up into the San Leonardo beech forest.

At an altitude of 941 metres, a signposted turnoff to the right leads, via hairpin bends that are never excessively steep, to the natural terrace where the Hermitage of San Leonardo al Volubrio stands, at approximately 1,128 metres above sea level.

The church you see today is the result of a reconstruction project initiated in the 1970s by Father Armando Lavini, known as Pietro, on the remains of an ancient Benedictine monastery that had been abandoned since the 17th century. The hermitage is already documented in the Statutes of Montefortino of 1324 and for centuries served as a landmark along a pilgrimage route that connected Rome to the Adriatic Sea via these mountains.

Following the 2016 earthquake, the building is undergoing restoration and cannot be visited inside. However, you can stop in front of the church, on a long stone bench in the small garden outside, and admire the direct relationship between the architecture and the mountains. Here, water flows gently below, and the rock looms behind.

After four days spent among gorges, hidden monasteries and mountain paths, the landscape here seems to encapsulate the entire journey: water flowing between the rocks, silent forests, and buildings built to stand on the edge of the world.