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Proceno Castle: the fortress on the Via Francigena and a working drawbridge
On the border between Lazio and Tuscany, Castello di Proceno is a medieval fortress that has kept watch over a stretch of the Via Francigena for centuries. Built upon a spur of volcanic rock, this stronghold is a rare example of 12th-century military architecture that has survived intact. Today it functions as an albergo diffuso (the multi-venue hotel concept), yet its military history still echoes within the walls.
An almost impregnable fortress
Its reputation as an unconquerable stronghold is tied to one specific event. In the mid-15th century, the troops of Pope Eugene IV laid siege to the fortress for a prolonged period. The resistance was fierce. According to the chronicles, the papal forces managed to enter only through betrayal, after the mercenary captain commanding the defence switched over to the enemy.
What to see inside the fortress today
The complex is made up of several buildings dominated by the keep and a curtain wall on five sides. But the true jewel lies in the main tower. Here the original drawbridge is still preserved — one of the very few in Italy that remains operational — and was once operated entirely by hand. A mechanism that bears witness to the authenticity of the place.
The castle houses a hotel and a restaurant. Visits to the complex and its small internal museum are possible, but only by prior booking through direct contact with the property.
