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Fortress of Sant'Andrea: the stone sentinel overlooking the Via Appia
Travelling along the Via Appia between Itri and Fondi, the eye is caught by a fortress that seems to merge with the very rock face. This is the Fortino di Sant'Andrea, an ancient border outpost of the Kingdom of Naples. Perched directly above the Gorge of Sant'Andrea, it kept watch over this obligatory mountain pass for centuries. It was a stage for battles and for the exploits of the brigand Fra' Diavolo.
A past written in stone
Its history is a layered one. The French built it at the beginning of the 19th century, during the reign of Joachim Murat, yet its foundations are far older. Below are the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to Apollo — a detail that reveals the site's strategic importance since antiquity, and explains why so many decisive battles were fought here.
Tales of brigands and soldiers
The walls hold stories of soldiers and outlaws. It was here, in 1798, that Michele Pezza, better known as Fra' Diavolo (Brother Devil), slowed the advance of French troops with a defence that became legendary. But there is also a more gracious anecdote. It is said that upon seeing the poet Torquato Tasso pass by, the brigand Marco Sciarra granted him the honours of war, allowing him to continue his journey unharmed.
The fort is now a ruin, and is not managed as a museum site, so there are no tickets or opening hours. It is clearly visible from the Via Appia state road that runs through the gorge. Direct access to the structure can be difficult, and should be approached with caution.
