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Chiesa di Santa Maria di Civita (Church of Santa Maria di Civita) in Arpino: between Roman History and Baroque Art
In the heart of Arpino, the Church of Santa Maria di Civita has a Baroque appearance today, but its history is much older, dating back to before Christianity. This place is a center of devotion to the Madonna dell'Assunta (Madonna of the Assumption) , whose thousand-year-old statue is housed inside, and stands on the remains of a Roman temple. There is some evidence linking the site to Cicero's family.
A re-emerging past
The building stands on the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to Mercurius Lanarius, the patron god of the wool trade. Testimony to this is a Latin stone slab, once fitted into the floor of the sacred area and now incorporated into the façade. The tablet bears the names of the likely patrons, who belonged to a gens that sources link to the family of Cicero.
The wooden statue and its festival
Inside, the focus is all on the wooden statue of the Assumption, attired in a rich 18th-century gown. Carved around the year 1000 from a Cedar of Lebanon trunk, the Lady has a hieratic, almost severe gaze. Tradition holds that in the Middle Ages it was moved to the fortress of Montenero to protect it from raids. Every August 15th, it is carried in a solemn procession through the city streets.
The art of Cavalier d'Arpino and other surprises
The church also houses several important canvases, including some by Cavalier d'Arpino—the city's most famous artist—and a Saint Jerome attributed to a follower of Caravaggio. One final curiosity: the Madonna's processional machine is the work of the famous cabinetmaker Stolz. Unfortunately the angels that adorned it were stolen.
The church is in the Civita Falconara district, in the historic center of Arpino (FR). Admission is free, but opening hours may vary. It is advisable to check with the parish or the local tourist office.
