Tenth stage of the Giro d'Italia 2023: from Scandiano to Viareggio

After a day of rest, the athletes of the Giro start again on the roads of Emilia-Romagna, to reach Scandiano, a pretty town in the province of Reggio Emilia.

Located on the edge of the Emilian plain, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the Municipality links its history to that of the Boiardo family who, in 1423, obtained the title of county from the Estensi. Scandiano gave birth, in addition to Matteo Maria Boiardo who wrote the famous epic poem “L'Orlando Innamorato”, to Lazzaro Spallanzani among the fathers of biology and modern medicine.  

If the imposing Rocca dei Boiardo dominates the historic center, the surrounding area is composed of rolling hills rich in Spergola vineyards, an autochthonous vine dating back to the eleventh century, protected by the Compagnia della Spergola, which regulates its cultivation and - through various initiatives - promotes its unique tradition. 

Located in a rich and fertile territory, Scandiano has four dairies for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano and numerous vinegars for the production of excellent balsamic vinegar, which is well accompanied by the local gastronomic tradition. Starting from Scandiano, the route climbs the hills of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines until reaching the Passo delle Radici which, with its 1527 meters, represents the highest point of the stage on the border between Emilia and Tuscany. 

From here the journey begins a descent phase that crosses Garfagnana and Versilia, until reaching Camaiore and Viareggio. 

La Garfagnana welcomes us with its rich diversity of landscape: unspoiled mountains, hills rich in meadows and crops crowned by the Apuan Alps. A view that descends towards the sea where it meets Versilia, a stretch of about 20 kilometers with sandy and welcoming beaches, a very popular destination for summer holidays.

Arrived in Viareggio, a lively, colorful and flat town, therefore easy to walk and explore both on foot and by bicycle, you can immediately see its history: its foundation dates back to 1172, when Genoese and Lucca together, to defend themselves from Pisa and pirates, built the Matilda Tower, among the most significant and ancient monuments of the city, around which the town center developed.

It was only in 1819, when the Duchess Maria Luisa di Borbone had the first dock built, that Viareggio rose from a simple port to a real town, gaining over time the reputation of a renowned tourist resort.

Walking along the promenade, the numerous Art Nouveau buildings stand out: Villa Argentina or Caffè Margherita, which has remained intact since the early 1920s, and which I will count among its most frequent visitors the composer Giacomo Puccini, who remembers sitting in the room intent on writing his works, including the unfinished Turandot.
We also suggest a visit to the Maritime Museum, where we retrace the history of Viareggio through the lives and work of Viareggio sailors.

But, you know, Viareggio is known all over the world thanks to its famous Carnival. In the Carnival Citadel, a large park inside the city, you can meet artisans and masters of papier-mâché who work all year round to create the gigantic floats that parade, every year, under the amazed and admired eyes of visitors.

The tradition of Carnival dates back to 1873, when some young people attending the Casino had the idea of parading carriages filled with flowers and masks on the waterfront. Over time the carriages were replaced by those allegorical floats that today laugh kindly at the world of politics and entertainment.

As for the gastronomic aspect, in Viareggio you can taste a wide variety of fish dishes linked to the long seafaring tradition. The most renowned is certainly the viareggio cacciucco: born in 1500 as a poor dish of fishermen, it has then evolved into a very rich sea soup, composed of tomato, cuttlefish, sea cicada, redfish, mullet and chicken, sometimes with the addition of octopus, to be accompanied strictly with Tuscan bread. Also excellent are spaghetti with "niches" (clams or telline), and "scarpaccia dolce", a sweet made with zucchini, a very unusual ingredient for a dessert.