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Walks

Via Matildica del Volto Santo in Tuscany

VisitTuscany.com

VisitTuscany.com

Typology
route on foot
Duration
96 hours
Number of stages
5
Difficulty
Medium

The Via Matildica and the Via del Volto Santo are two pilgrimage routes linked by a single destination: St Martin’s Cathedral in Lucca, which houses the wooden sculpture of the Volto Santo (Holy Face). Also known as the ‘Black Christ of Lucca’, this image has been the subject of myths and legends for centuries. 

These two routes meet in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and continue as a single route.

The Via Matildica starts in Mantua and crosses the Po Valley before ascending into the Apennine National Park, reaching Tuscany via the San Pellegrino Pass. From here, it descends into Garfagnana and the Middle Serchio Valley, finally reaching Lucca.

The route runs for 284 kilometres through three regions – Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany – passing through villages rich in culture, natural landscapes and spectacular views. 

Historically, it is divided into three sections: the Via del Preziosissimo Sangue (3 stages from Mantua to Reggio Emilia), the Via di San Pellegrino (5 stages from Reggio Emilia to San Pellegrino in Alpe) and the Via del Volto Santo (3 stages from Castelnuovo di Garfagnana to Lucca).

This itinerary focuses on the Tuscan section, which starts in Gazzano, in the province of Reggio Emilia.

From Gazzano to San Pellegrino in Alpe

From Gazzano to San Pellegrino in Alpe

The first stage of this route corresponds to the eighth stage of the Via Matildica and is the highest and most challenging stage of the entire route. 

It starts in Gazzano and reaches the Apennine watershed before arriving in San Pellegrino in Alpe, on the border between Emilia and Tuscany. In bad weather or during the colder months, it is possible to follow variant 8b, as described on the official Via Matildica website.
From Gazzano, the route continues towards Civago, passing through the ruins of the Torre di Amorotto. 
You then reach Case Civago and from there the Segheria mountain hut, before taking path 681 towards the Forbici Pass. 
Another trail then leads to the highest point of the entire route: the Giovarello Pass – almost 1,700 metres above sea level – from which the view is spectacular.
From the Giovarello Pass, the route descends towards the Piana della Maccherie and the fields of San Geminiano, before reaching the Passo delle Radici. 
Here, the route turns right and, passing through woods and meadows, leads to the Pradaccio mountain hut. After about one kilometre, you reach San Pellegrino in Alpe.

From San Pellegrino to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

From San Pellegrino to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana

A long descent takes us to the heart of Garfagnana
After passing through San Pellegrino in Alpe, you reach Valbona and from there, along a narrow tarmac road, you arrive in the centre of Castiglione di Garfagnana, a village enclosed by medieval walls and characterised by picturesque alleyways.
After crossing the medieval bridge in Castiglione, we continue first along a footpath, then along a dirt road that runs alongside the river until we reach Pieve Fosciana and then Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, where we meet the Via del Volto Santo.

From Castelnuovo di Garfagnana to Barga

From Castelnuovo di Garfagnana to Barga

In Castelnuovo, the Rocca Ariostesca is worth a visit. It is named in honour of Ludovico Ariosto, who stayed there between 1522 and 1525 during his tenure as governor of Garfagnana on behalf of the Este family.
Leaving the village, we climb along the Via Montealtissimo to Palazzetto: from here, a path leading into the forest offers a panoramic view of the valley.
We continue along a dirt road that leads to the ruins of the Romanesque church of St Mary Magdalene and from there to Cascio.
After Cascio, you reach Gallicano and, after crossing a long bridge over the Serchio Valley, the route ascends towards San Bernardino. Following narrow country lanes, you finally reach Barga, a mediaeval town included on the list of Italy's Most Beautiful Villages.

From Barga to Borgo a Mozzano

From Barga to Borgo a Mozzano

From the centre of Barga, near the cathedral, continue towards Porta Macchiaia. Following the ancient aqueduct, you reach the Church of Fornacetta and from there, the hamlet of Buvicchia. 
A downhill path crosses the Loppora stream and leads to the Parish Church of Santa Maria in Loppia and the stone bridge that takes you to Filecchio, where you will also find an ancient washhouse. 
From here, you can reach Ponte all’Ania.
The route then climbs towards Piano di Coreglia and the Church of San Lorenzo, continues to Ghivizzano Castle with the Castruccio Castracani tower, and crosses the Serchio River. 
A climb along a wide path then leads to Rocca, from where the descent begins to Borgo a Mozzano, known for the famous Ponte della Maddalena, also called the Devil’s Bridge.

Borgo a Mozzano: il borgo toscano del leggendario Ponte del Diavolo
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From Borgo a Mozzano to Lucca

From Borgo a Mozzano to Lucca

Leaving Borgo a Mozzano, you walk along a country road, passing the Museo della Linea Gotica (Gothic Line Museum) and going through an underpass until you reach Diecimo, where you will find the parish church of Santa Maria, commissioned by Matilde di Canossa.
Continue towards Valdottavo and then towards San Donato, before reaching Ponte a Moriano. After crossing the bridge over the Serchio, take the cycle/pedestrian path that runs alongside the river for about ten kilometres, until you reach the foot of the walls of Lucca
From here, you enter the city through the Baluardo di San Frediano and reach St Martin’s Cathedral, where you can admire the Volto Santo, the final destination of the route.

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