Chivasso

The town (183 m above sea level, approx. 27,000 inhabitants) is one of the most important municipalities in the Canavese region. Inhabited since the Neolithic period, its name derives from the Latin Clavasium, meaning “place facing the hill.” Strategically very important due to its position on the Monferrato route, in the 14th century it was under the rule of the Aleramici and then the Paleologi, before being designated the capital of the Marquisate of Monferrato in 1431 and eventually annexed by the House of Savoy.

During the 16th century, the raids of the Landsknechts caused widespread backwardness, but the situation changed when, following the Peace of Cateau-Cambrésis in 1559, Chivasso returned under Savoyard control. Particularly memorable is the city's heroic resistance during the famous siege of 1705—one of the most significant episodes that took place near the gates of Turin, with Chivasso representing the last outpost against the enemy.

Numerous sites bear witness to the town’s history, starting from the historic center, with its spacious square in front of the Cathedral and the elegant Via Torino, lined with arcades and pastry shops where visitors can buy nocciolini, the city’s signature sweet. But the most important monument is the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture in Piemonte, construction began in 1415, with later modifications. The façade (1420) features a splayed portal topped by a ghimberga (Gothic gable), a rose window, and an elaborate array of terracotta friezes and sculptures (apostles and prophets) in Gothic style. Noteworthy among them is the statue of the Madonna—a modern copy of the original 15th-century work preserved inside, where visitors can also find a polychrome terracotta sculptural group (8 figures) depicting the Pietà (15th century). At the second altar on the right, there is a Deposition from the Cross (16th century), a youthful panel painting by Chivasso-born Defendente Ferrari, the only work by the painter still in his hometown. Alongside the octagonal tower, this is all that remains of the old Aleramic castle, built around 1178 by William IV, Marquis of Monferrato.

Behind the church you can find the Palazzo di Santa Chiara, a late 18th-century building that was originally intended to become a convent for the Poor Clares, but instead became the town hall. On the ground floor, visitors shouldn’t miss the charming miniature horseshoe-shaped theatre, complete with stalls and gallery, designed in 1834 by Fausto Gozzano, father of the poet Guido Gozzano.

Also of note is the so-called Lapis Longus, a 4-meter-high stone stele dating back to the 7th–6th century BC, now standing at the center of Piazza Castello. The large stone was discovered in 1499 near the church of San Michele, built shortly after the year 1000 and completely dismantled in 1649 during the square's redevelopment.

On Piazza d’Armi stands the “Luigi Einaudi” Palace of Economy and Labor, a multifunctional venue for exhibitions and cultural events. Built in the 17th century and used as a barracks, it features on its pediment a rare decimal-based “revolutionary clock” – the day is divided into 10 hours of 100 minutes, each of 100 seconds. This innovation from the revolutionary period was short-lived and abolished by Napoleon in 1806. On the eastern edge of the town stands the grand Po River water intake system, built in the 1870s. Toward the countryside lies La Mandria, once a horse-breeding estate for the House of Savoy until the 19th century, now a charming rural hamlet.

Detour

Chivasso is also of great importance to the local economy and agriculture beyond its own area. The town, which is part of the Turin stretch of the Po River Park, is the starting point of the Cavour Canal (1883–86), Italy’s third-longest canal (80 km). It was built to support agriculture by channeling water from the Po, supplemented by the Dora Baltea River, and ends in the Ticino near Galliate. The canal was commissioned by Cavour to bring water to the rice fields and was one of the most significant engineering projects of the era. It remains the main source of irrigation north of the Po River.

From Chivasso, one can follow the road alongside the canal all the way to Verolengo, a charming village with roots dating back to ancient Roman times.