The Marche region of fortresses: between castles and stories

Just a short walk from the sea, in the village of Gradara, one of Italy's best-preserved mediaeval fortifications awaits you. With its double walls and almost 800-metre-long walkway, the fortress dominates the landscape between the Marche and Romagna regions, and even from a distance, it gives visitors the impression of stepping back into another era.

The original core of the fortress dates back to the 12th century, and can still be seen in the keep, which was built on the top of the hill to oversee the coast. It was a self-sufficient structure, equipped with a cistern and accessible only via wooden stairs, which were removed in the event of an attack. Over the centuries, under the Malatesta, Sforza and Della Rovere families, the fortress was transformed from a military stronghold into a residence, but its character remained intact.

Step into the courtyard and look at the details: the sturdy Gothic arches coexist with the more delicate Renaissance forms, a sign of the shifts in power. Inside, the rooms reflect this dual nature, a place of both defence and court life, which was also recreated by the extensive 20th-century restoration that gave the Rocca its current appearance.

And then there is the legend. According to tradition, it was here that the story of Paolo and Francesca, immortalised by Dante Alighieri, played out. Today, one of the rooms in the Rocca is dedicated to this episode, creating an atmosphere poised between history and legend. Take a moment to stop and look around, because this is one of those places where the story seems to come to life. Finally, climb up to the walkway: on one side, the hills; on the other, the Adriatic Sea. If you can, come in the late afternoon, when the light illuminates the bricks and makes everything even more evocative.  

In the village of Sassocorvaro, in the heart of the Montefeltro area, you won't find angular towers or severe outlines: instead, the fortress will immediately surprise you with its soft, almost unexpected lines, which make it different from all the others. Not surprisingly, when viewed from above, it resembles a tortoise – and it is precisely in this shape that one of its secrets lies.

Designed in the 15th century by Francesco di Giorgio Martini for the court of Federico da Montefeltro, the Rocca Ubaldinesca was conceived and commissioned by Ottaviano degli Ubaldini and is an example of transitional military architecture: its curved lines were intended to deflect shots from the new firearms. Here, however, the defensive function is intertwined with a more enigmatic dimension.

Indeed, Ottaviano degli Ubaldini was a learned man who was fascinated by alchemy. Inspired by the shape of a tortoise, the fortress is not just an engineering solution, but also a symbolic one: a reference to the relationship between the earth and the sky, between the microcosm and the universe. As you walk through the corridors and courtyards, you will notice unusual details, from the light openings to the curved passageways and the carved symbols, as if the building were concealing a path to be interpreted. There is also a surprise, less visible from the outside. In the large upper hall, a theatre has been created: an intimate and unexpected space, established when the fortress ceased to have a military function. Instead of the stages found in the historic theatres of the Marche region, you will find a wooden balcony running along the length of the hall, beneath a frescoed vault featuring Neoclassical decorations against a deep blue background. Even today, it hosts performances and events, giving the Rocca a vibrant purpose once again.

Another, more recent, story makes this place even more special. During the Second World War, the fortress became a safe haven for thousands of works of art from all over Italy. Masterpieces by artists such as Giorgione, Raphael and Titian, saved from bombing, were kept here, which is why the fortress is still known today as the 'Arca dell'Arte' ('Ark of Art').

To truly appreciate its shape, we recommend taking a few steps away from the village or finding a vantage point: from a distance, you will be able to see its striking design clearly. Then, once you're inside, pay attention to the details: that's where this fortress truly reveals its character.

In Mondavio, in the hills between Pesaro and Urbino, the Rocca is immediately recognisable thanks to its compact, orderly appearance. It is not striking for its size, but for the balance of its forms, which were designed with great precision.

It was designed at the end of the 15th century by Francesco di Giorgio Martini for Giovanni Della Rovere, at a time when military tactics were changing and firearms were requiring new defensive solutions. Here, every feature serves a purpose: the sloping walls to deflect shots, the dominant keep, and the internal passageways designed to control every point of entry. Everything is designed for defence, but also to stand the test of time.

Yet there is one detail that sets it apart from other fortresses: it has never been the target of a major attack. It has never fired, nor received, a single shot from a bombard. It has remained as it is, without having to demonstrate its strength, almost suspended between design and reality. As you enter, take your time to look around the different spaces: the narrow passageways, the embrasures, and the various levels. In the moat, you will also find the war machines reconstructed from Martini's drawings, which will give you a clear idea of how this fortress was designed to function. If you look at it from above, you will also notice a distinctive feature: part of the structure resembles the shape of a crossbow.

Today, the Rocca houses a museum, and in the summer, historical reenactments bring these walls back to life. Around it, the village retains a peaceful rhythm, made up of narrow alleys and views of the hills, in harmony with the fortress that towers above it.

Surrounded by a moat and punctuated by mighty towers, the Rocca Roveresca in Senigallia stands out as a distinct, compact presence, capturing the eye from afar. It is an imposing fortress that reveals much more as you get closer.

Before you go inside, pause for a moment, perhaps by the moat: from here, you can clearly see the layout of the fortress, which was designed not only for defence but also to assert the power of the Della Rovere family. Then, walk through the entrance and let the space guide you. As you go inside, you will realise that you are not visiting a single building, but several overlapping eras. Over the course of time, the Rocca has incorporated earlier structures, from the oldest tower to the Malatesta-era section, until, under the Della Rovere family, it became the fortress we see today. It is a place that reveals itself little by little, as if each step adds a fragment to its story.

Its functions have also changed over time. From a residence to a military stronghold, then a prison, an orphanage and a storehouse: during your visit, you can still see traces of these different uses in the details, in the way the spaces have been transformed, and in the marks left on the walls, such as the graffiti carved by prisoners: small traces that make this history even more tangible.

Today, the Rocca hosts exhibitions and events, but its identity remains intact. After your visit, take the time to stroll through Senigallia: amid its views and open spaces, the town continues to reveal traces of this history.

In the village of Offagna, in the Ancona hinterland, the medieval fortress stands out with its unmistakable silhouette, perched on a rocky outcrop and visible from afar. It is a presence that draws the eye, but also a vantage point from which to look out.

Built in just two years in the mid-fifteenth century by the Republic of Ancona, the fortress was originally intended as a defensive bulwark against the nearby town of Osimo. Its compact, robust structure, with its imposing keep and numerous emplacements for bombardes, tells the story of an era of change, when military architecture was also beginning to adapt to new weapons.

Go inside and take your time exploring the rooms: descend into the tower dungeons, look at the most important spaces, and then climb back up slowly. It's a journey that will help you change your perspective, step by step. As you climb towards the walkway and the top of the keep, the space suddenly opens up. From here, the view stretches out before you, wide and unbroken: the Marche hills, the surrounding historic towns and, on clear days, the coastline as far as Monte Conero.

Today, the fortress houses a museum dedicated to historic weapons, but its evocative power remains undiminished. Around the fortress, the village retains a cosy atmosphere, which comes to life in summer during the medieval reenactments, when the Rocca naturally takes centre stage once again.

Situated between the Castellano stream and the Cecco bridge, the Malatesta Fort in Ascoli Piceno appears to be a compact, well-structured building, but it is only when you go inside that you discover how much this place has changed over time.

Its current appearance is the result of a design by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, who, in the 16th century, redesigned the structure with a more complex layout to meet new defensive needs. However, beneath this current form lie much older traces: Roman buildings once stood here, followed by a mediaeval fortress and, over time, a continuous series of transformations.

As you enter, you will notice that the spaces are never what you expect. At the heart of the fort is the Church of Santa Maria del Lago, which was built in the 16th century and later incorporated into the structure. Divided over several levels, converted into a warehouse and even used as a prison cell, this church tells the story of this place better than anything else. Indeed, the prison is one of its most vivid memories. In use until the twentieth century, it has left behind rooms, passageways and evocative features that make a visit both tangible and surprising, as visitors move continuously between its different functions.

Today, the fort houses the Museum of the Early Middle Ages, which displays Longobard artefacts from the Ascoli area, but it still retains its imposing presence. As you walk through the courtyards, passageways and rooms, you will realise that nothing here has remained the same.