3 young Michelin-starred chefs for 3 multi-sensory experiences for true gourmets
Of the most coveted awards for a chef, the Michelin star is perhaps the most significant. Although awarded to the restaurant, it is almost exclusively the merit of the person who creates the dishes.
16 September 2022
The Turin scene: Christian Mandura and his restaurant, Unforgettable
The restaurant's name says it all, and is a prelude to the feeling you will experience once you have tasted its chef's creations: Unforgettable, an experience that is, indeed, unforgettable.
Opened in April 2019 in Turin, at 5b Via Lorenzo Valerio, Christian Mandura's project received the coveted Michelin star in 2022. When you taste the chef's dishes, you will understand why.
The menu from the young chef, who was born in 1990, may seem provocative to you, as it switches from vegetables as the absolute protagonist to the triumph of animal proteins. You will thus see vegetables at the centre of the plate, including the parts that are normally discarded. Salt or heavy seasonings are not added, to enhance their natural flavour, and they are set out with theatrical choreography.
Following an aperitif of tomato liquid, vegetarian capunet and fried potato cannoli, you will move on to the counter and take a seat at one of the 16 place settings. Your choice may be the bell pepper in its treacle, followed by partially dried courgette with a butter emulsion, accompanied by a side of raw prawns. Then there is egg, topped with a capful of caviar and flanked by white asparagus with a sprinkling of almonds.
But here the perspective is reversed and in the new 'Paradigma' space, built on the upper floor of the restaurant, it is the animal that is served in all its parts, from starter to dessert. So, the green light is given to brains, tongue, eyes and so on. All in the name of sustainability, because the choice of food takes seasonality into account.
In the hills, on the outskirts of Trento: Edoardo Fumagalli and the Locanda Margon
If you find yourself in Trentino, drop by the Locanda Margon. Run by chef Edoardo Fumagalli, it not only confirms its Michelin star, but has also received the new green star award, linked to the theme of sustainability.
Respect for the land and the seasons are the prerogatives underlying the cuisine of the young chef, born in 1989, whom you may happen to spot strolling among vegetable gardens and vineyards, in search of ingredients for his dishes. These are unique dishes that you will be able to enjoy in Ravina di Trento, at Via Margone di Ravina 15, where the Locanda has been operating since 2019.
You will enjoy a cuisine with distinct flavours, but at the same time light and balanced.
There are three menus on offer: the first blends with the house Trentodocs, the second exalts the excellence of Trentino, interpreting it in a modern twist, and the third emphasises the search for the natural component of the dish.
The menu ranges from bread cannoli with caviar, red prawns and orange sauce, to ravioli with Dolomite trout, river cress and speck, to spelt linguine with chickpea consommé, peanuts, bergamot and fennel, and the fifth quarter lamb with harissa, kefir cream and oregano.
Your taste buds will be treated to a celebration of local ingredients, distorted and brought together with out-of-region elements. All perfectly paired with the bubbles of the host, the Ferrari cellars.
A terrace on the Gulf of Salerno: Lorenzo Cuomo and Re Maurì
In between a dip and a tan, you should know that a shower of stars has fallen on the region in 2022 and no less than five new restaurants in the area boast the Michelin accolade. We recommend one on the border between Salerno and Vietri, where the coastline rises over the harbour. It is the 2016 Michelin-starred restaurant Re Maurì, in Via Benedetto Croce.
Hosted by the Lloyd's Baia hotel, you will try not only dishes from Campania served on the panoramic terrace overlooking the gulf, but also international dishes created by chef Lorenzo Cuomo.
Appetisers range from the timeless mozzarella and tomato duo, to the more refined duck and goose foie gras terrine with caramelised rhubarb and raspberry vinegar.
Tradition meets innovation in the first courses, as you will see from the roasted aubergine tortello with lobster ragout and crispy buffalo blue cheese, or the lemon spaghettini with seafood carbonara, friggitelli and cod tartar.
Before moving on to desserts, treat yourself to a fresh amberjack in lemon leaf, liquid salad and marinated yolk or a sea bass in green apple sauce with ricotta, sea asparagus and caviar.
Finally, there is room for desserts, from the peanut and caramel shortbread with apple and passion fruit to the rum baba with creamy blond, salted caramel and candied pellecchiella apricot.