Winter in Tuscany: mountains, thermal baths, villages and culinary traditions

In the mountains of Lunigiana, at the Due Santi pass, Zum Zeri is a little winter paradise: 8 km of medium and easy slopes, served by a chairlift and a ski lift. There is a ski school, a baby area and playground for younger children to enjoy themselves in the snow and, of course, a warm mountain refuge, the Faggio Crociato, where you can stop for refreshments.

Between the Apennines and the Apuan Alps, Garfagnana offers a vast ski area that connects Careggine and Casone di Profecchia – an ideal location for downhill skiing and for those who love cross-country skiing, surrounded by chestnut groves and peaceful landscapes.

In the Pistoia Mountains, Cutigliano retains the cosy atmosphere of a medieval village. From here, you can reach Doganaccia, with around 15 kilometres of slopes, ski lifts and cross-country trails. Not far away lies Abetone, one of Italy's most important ski destinations, part of the Abetone Val di Luce resort: 50 kilometres of slopes served by 17 lifts, spread across the four valleys of Val di Luce, Sestaione, Scoltenna and Lima.

When temperatures drop, the thermal baths become a perfect refuge.

In Val d’Orcia, the thermal springs sit alongside some of Tuscany's most iconic landscapes. In Bagno Vignoni, the large pool in the centre of the square bears witness to centuries of history. Although it is no longer suitable for swimming, the village has three spas offering wellness treatments, including indoor pools, baths with panoramic views and salt caves.

In Bagni San Filippo, on the slopes of Monte Amiata, you can find the hidden gem of the Fosso Bianco, a stream that creates natural pools and waterfalls between bright white limestone walls.

On the Etruscan Coast, the Sassetta Thermal Baths flow at a temperature of 51 °C in a landscape surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, part of an extensive biodynamic complex.

In Maremma, Saturnia is home to an ancient spring that has been flowing continuously for three thousand years at a temperature of 37.5 °C. The Cascate del Mulino, named after an ancient mill beside the waterfalls, are open-air thermal baths with free access. As well as the famous waterfalls, there are two spas offering personalised treatments and relaxing experiences.

During winter, many Tuscan villages rekindle traditions associated with fire, light and social gatherings.

In Buti, in the woods of Monte Pisano, the January Palio has its roots in the 17th century. The days leading up to the race are dedicated to religious services and neighbourhood dinners, while the town fills with the aroma of trippa alla butese, prepared according to a recipe that also includes minced meat.

In Pontremoli, one of the most evocative towns in Lunigiana, the "Disfida dei Falò" (Bonfire Challenge) is celebrated in January: two enormous bonfires, dedicated to Saint Nicholas and Saint Geminian, are lit in a ritual that recalls ancestral traditions associated with protection against the cold and harks back to medieval conflicts. Weeks of preparation culminate in the events on 17 and 31 January.

In Castiglion Fibocchi, at the foot of Pratomagno, the Carnevale dei Figli di Bocco transforms the village into an open-air theatre – two hundred participants show off their elaborate costumes and papier-mâché masks, all while enjoying shows and local delicacies.

In Tuscany, the winter air is filled with the aroma of steaming soups, each linked to a different area and its own unique history. Ribollita reflects peasant cuisine with its mix of stale bread and cavolo nero; frantoiana brings the flavours of Lucchesia to the table; caldaro, originally a dish of Argentario fishermen, showcases the catch of the day; while acquacotta maremmiana combines wild herbs and seasonal vegetables. Alongside these recipes, cavolo nero farinata – prepared with cannellini beans and corn flour – is simple, wholesome comfort food, to be enjoyed hot and freshly made, or toasted in the days that follow.

Whether you choose the tranquillity of the villages, the energy of the mountains or wellness at the thermal baths, every experience becomes a way to enjoy winter in all its genuine and unexpected facets.