Winter in Tuscany: mountains, thermal baths, villages, and culinary traditions

In the mountains of Lunigiana, at the Due Santi Pass, Zum Zeri is a small winter paradise: easy and intermediate slopes served by a chairlift and a ski lift. There is a ski school area, a baby park playground for children to enjoy the snow, and of course a warm mountain refuge, Faggio Crociato, where you can stop for a hearty break.

Between the Apennines and the Apuan Alps, Garfagnana offers a scattered ski area linking Careggine and the Casone di Profecchia—an ideal destination for alpine skiing and for lovers of cross-country skiing, surrounded by chestnut woods and silent landscapes.

On the Pistoiese Mountains, Cutigliano retains the intimate atmosphere of a medieval village. From here you can reach Doganaccia, with about fifteen kilometers of slopes, ski lifts, and cross-country trails. Not far away lies Abetone, one of Italy’s most important ski destinations, part of the Abetone Val di Luce resort: 50 kilometers of slopes served by 17 lifts, spread across the four valleys of Val di Luce, Sestaione, Scoltenna, and Lima.

When temperatures drop, thermal baths become the perfect refuge.

In Val d’Orcia, the thermal springs blend with some of Tuscany’s most iconic landscapes. In Bagno Vignoni, the large pool at the center of the square tells centuries of history: today it is not swimmable, but the village hosts three facilities where visitors can indulge in wellness with indoor pools, panoramic baths, and salt caves.

At the foot of Monte Amiata, Bagni San Filippo hides the Fosso Bianco, a stream that creates natural pools and waterfalls among bright white limestone walls.

On the Etruscan Coast, the Terme di Sassetta gush at 51 °C in a setting immersed in Mediterranean scrub, part of a large biodynamic complex.

In Maremma, Saturnia preserves a millennial spring that has flowed continuously for 3,000 years at 37.5 °C. The Cascate del Mulino, named after an ancient mill beside the waterfalls, are open-air thermal baths with free access. In addition to the famous waterfalls, there are two facilities offering personalized therapeutic and relaxing experiences.

During winter, many Tuscan villages rediscover rituals linked to fire, light, and conviviality.

In Buti, among the woods of Monte Pisano, the January Palio has roots dating back to the 17th century. The days leading up to the race are dedicated to religious ceremonies and district dinners, while the village fills with the aroma of trippa alla butese, prepared according to a recipe that also includes minced meat.

In Pontremoli, one of the most picturesque towns of Lunigiana, the Disfida dei Falò is celebrated in January: two enormous bonfires, dedicated to San Nicolò and San Gimignano compete in a ritual that recalls ancient traditions related to protection from the cold and medieval conflicts. Weeks of preparation culminate in a night illuminated by towering flames.

In Castiglion Fibocchi, at the foot of the Pratomagno, the Carnevale dei Figli di Bocco transforms the village into an open-air theater: two hundred performers wear elaborate costumes and papier-mâché masks, accompanied by shows and local delicacies.

In Tuscany, winter smells of steaming soups, each tied to a specific territory and story. Ribollita tells the story of peasant cuisine with its mix of stale bread and black cabbage, Frantoiana brings the flavors of the Lucca area to the table, Caldaro, originally a dish of Argentario fishermen, highlights the catch of the day, and Acquacotta Maremmana combines wild herbs and seasonal vegetables. Alongside these recipes, black cabbage farinata—made with cannellini beans and cornmeal—is a simple and wholesome comfort food, best enjoyed hot, freshly made, or toasted in the following days.

Whether choosing the quiet of the villages, the energy of the mountains, or the wellness of the thermal baths, every experience becomes a way to live winter in all its genuine and surprising shades.