Discovering the “carresi” to immerse yourself in the traditions of Basso Molise

Termoli, the lively main town in Basso Molise, is also known as the “old town” and is home to churches, palaces and a medieval castle, all of which contribute to its rich historical heritage. In the castle area, you’ll also find the custodians of the ancient traditions of southern Molise (which also includes the local dialect). One of these traditions is linked to the castle, whose earliest towers date back to the Lombard era, with alterations by the Normans, then by Frederick II of Swabia and finally by the Bourbons.

On the night of Ferragosto (15 August), the fortress comes alive as part of the traditional “Castle Fire”, a spectacular fireworks display that evokes the ancient Saracen assaults on the Molise coast. This is the most eagerly awaited event of the year, together with the celebration of Saint Bassus, the town’s patron saint. The magic of the event is conjured up by a combination of music and colours, and the whole experience is rounded off with a balmy midnight swim.

The origins of this festival can be traced back to the Turkish assault of 1566. The Turks aimed to conquer all the Tremiti islands, so they didn’t stop at attacking this town, but also the lands between Pescara and the Apulian coast. Once in Termoli, the Ottomans found the defensive walls already weakened by previous earthquakes and managed to enter and sack the city, setting fire to the castle and the cathedral of Santa Maria della Purificazione. Many townsfolk managed to find refuge in the nearby sanctuary of Madonna a Lungo, where for many years the event was commemorated with folk festivals and pilgrimages. 

About half an hour’s drive from Termoli are San Martino in Pensilis and the two Arbëreshë villages of Ururi and Portocannone. These three villages all celebrate the “carresi” festival, which takes place on 30 April, 3 May and the Monday after Pentecost, respectively.

If you happen to be in the narrow streets of these villages on those days, watch out when walking around. The carrese is also known as the “ox-cart race”. What the villagers are actually celebrating is the ritual cycle of spring rebirth and the coming harvest, traditionally a source of hope and survival. The ritual is also a way to bring the villagers together and get them involved in a sort of community game. They are divided into three teams: Giovani, Giovanotti and Cittadella. The rules for the departure of the carts are different in each of the three locations. 

In Ururi, for example, the oxen, carts and riders are blessed in front of the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, after which they are arranged in order of merit based on the previous year’s winners. The race starts at the Masseria Pantoni farm and ends at the same church where the blessing took place. The following day, the winning cart has the honour of carrying the crucifix through the streets of the village. 

A similar tradition takes place in nearby Larino. Here the tradition can be traced back to 802, when the inhabitants managed to obtain the relics of San Pardo. The carts are dedicated to this saint and are paraded on 25, 26 and 27 May: the first procession is the most atmospheric because it takes place late at night with torches lit along the streets. Both the festival in Larino and the one in San Martino in Pensilis are linked to the singing of the “laudata”, which is still passed down from generation to generation.

Less than half an hour’s drive away, at the same time of year, you can visit Acquaviva Collecroce, a hilltop village of about 800 inhabitants and the site of another really interesting festival, the Maja. This festival also celebrates spring, but instead of carts, a puppet with anthropomorphic features covered in wildflowers, plants and herbs, picked directly from the surrounding countryside, is paraded through the streets. On the day of the festival, a man climbs inside the effigy and carries it to the main square, as the locals perform folk songs and dances with traditional musical instruments.

Acquaviva Collecroce is a 40-minute drive from Casacalenda, a village of just over 600 inhabitants perched on a hill. Casacalenda is proof that Basso Molise is not only about ancient traditions, but also contemporary ideas.

The Molise Cinema film festival, first held in 2003, takes place at the beginning of August and aims to bring entertainment to even the most isolated areas. Every year, film or documentary screenings are organised, complete with meet-and-greets events between actors and directors and the local Molise audiences. 

The Festa di San Giuseppe, meanwhile, has long been celebrated on the night between 18 and 19 March. In a pre-selected house in the village, a religious ceremony is held in honour of the saint, followed by a 13-course meal featuring legumes, vegetables and the famous “pasta con la mollica”, a dish made with toasted breadcrumbs, pasta “in bianco” and raisins. Casacalenda’s traditions are closely linked to gastronomy – specialities include ciufele, handmade cavatelli pasta with tomato sauce; pezzenta (a vegetable stew), and baccalà alla casacalendese (salt cod), as well as local wines. 

On 31 December, it’s part of the town’s tradition to play the maitunate (festive celebrations linked to the choral songs of 18th-century shepherds) accompanied by the bufù. This is a folk instrument consisting of a wooden barrel closed at the top by a stretched membrane with a hole, through which a bamboo cane is inserted. Sliding a rag along the vibrating barrel produces the sound, which is amplified by the barrel. A few years ago, Casacalenda decided to devote a museum to this traditional instrument, which is famous all over the world.

As you wander around the village, you may also be surprised to find works of art hidden in every corner: in streets, alleyways and squares. This is part of an initiative by Kalenarte or MAACK, the Open-Air Museum of Contemporary Art, which has been highly influential since the late 1990s. It proudly displays art installations in various locations throughout the region and aims to help people rediscover places that have been abandoned or neglected.