The Matese Massif: Adventures between silence and nature

Along the Rotta dei Trabocchi, mooring in the tourist port of Marina di San Pietro allows you to discover the beauties of the city of Termoli, where a rich history blends harmoniously with modernity. Situated under the ramparts of the historic centre, protected from all winds and without undertow, it is also the ideal starting point for exploring the main destinations of the central-southern Adriatic, such as the Tremiti Islands, the Gargano promontory, Lastovo, Vieste, Rhodes and the Croatian islands. Exploring the picturesque streets of Termoli means immersing yourself in an ancient village where every corner reveals a fascinating history. The walls surrounding the historical centre enclose enchanting squares and suggestive alleys. A few hundred metres from the port, next to the Belvedere Tower, the great arch of Porta Nuova opens, the entrance to the historic centre of Termoli. In a few steps you reach Piazza Duomo, the beating heart of the ancient town, surrounded by picturesque buildings of great historical value. The Cathedral of Santa Maria della Purificazione, the Church of Sant'Anna and the Palazzo della Casa Episcopale, which offers the opportunity to discover Termoli's underground, are all worth a visit. Walking along the Duomo alley and passing by the Figliola Palace, you reach the tiny Rejecelle alley, the narrowest street in Termoli. From here, a short stretch of the Panoramic Walk leads to the Swabian Castle, the undisputed symbol of the city. The castle dominates the landscape and offers a breathtaking view of the waterfront. From the castle, it is possible to follow the Panoramic Walk of Termoli, i.e. Via Federico II di Svevia, which winds around the old town at about 20 metres above sea level, offering spectacular views, or to go down towards the modern part of the town and the Christopher Columbus promenade. This seafront, which extends northwards, begins at the beach of S. Antonio offers another panoramic walk: Via dei Trabucchi, which runs alongside the Trabucco di Celestino, one of the ancient fishing machines that characterise the Molise and Abruzzo coasts.

Leaving the Adriatic Sea behind us, the journey into the hinterland of Molise takes us to Campobasso, a city that offers a fusion of mediaeval history and the elegance of the nineteenth century. The old town, with mediaeval origins, develops on the slope of a hill dominated by the suggestive Monforte Castle. The historic centre unfolds around the castle, with alleys and winding staircases flanked by stone houses, often with characteristic courtyards. The portals, decorated with noble coats of arms and allegorical figures, add a touch of charm to the urban landscape. The modern part of the city, which dates back to the 19th century and is known as the “centro murattiano”, is flat and is a typical example of the urban development of the period, with an orthogonal layout that has earned Campobasso the nickname of "garden city". The “Museo Provinciale Sannitico”, housed in the splendid Mazzarotta Palace, contains a valuable collection of Samnite artefacts. Piazza Gabriele Pepe is overlooked by important buildings such as the "Mario Pagano" boarding school, with its rich botanical garden, the Palazzo del Governo and the neoclassical Cathedral, decorated with frescoes by Amedeo Trivisonno and Romeo Musa. Next to the Cathedral, the Savoia Theatre, with its Liberty façade and interior frescoes by Arnaldo de Lisio, offers a touch of artistic elegance. The eighteenth-century Villa De Capoa, with its Italian garden covering almost 16,000 square metres, is one of the most evocative places in the city. During the feast of Corpus Domini, the streets of the city centre come alive with the Procession of the Mysteries, in which 13 "machines" animated by costumed actors are "suspended" in the air thanks to special metal structures created in 1748 by the local artist Paolo Saverio Di Zinno, creating a unique and fascinating spectacle.

The second day of the itinerary is dedicated to the discovery of Roccamandolfi. Immersed in a landscape of woods and plains, at the foot of the majestic Matese massif, this picturesque mountain town is an oasis of peace on the border between Molise and Campania. On the way to Roccamandolfi, don't miss the opportunity to visit Saepinum,  an extraordinary archaeological park where past and present live in harmony. The historical centre of Roccamandolfi, with its ancient houses clustered around the church of San Giacomo Maggiore, recounts a thousand years of history. Walking through the streets of the village, you can see evidence of the past, such as the four circular measures in perfectly smooth stone, corresponding to the "tomolo", the "mezzetto", the "quarto" and the "misura", a unit of measurement for grain still used in the country. The history of the Risorgimento in Roccamandolfi is interwoven with the phenomenon of brigandage, as evoked in the evocative Documentation Centre on Brigandage, enriched by 2D-3D projections. A stroll through the village reveals important stops, including the Statue of the Brigand. The ruins of the fortress that dominate the town from the inaccessible hill offer breathtaking views, while the Campitello di Roccamandolfi and the paths on the northern side of the Matese offer unforgettable excursions. Along the paths you can admire spectacular landscapes up to 2050 metres above sea level, with a view that stretches from the Gulf of Naples to the Tremiti Islands, as well as fantastic caves (Grotta del Fumo, Grotta delle Ciavole) and waterfalls, such as that of Rio. For the more adventurous, the Tibetan Bridge offers unique sensations, allowing you to walk at high altitude between imposing rock faces. The wild nature of the Natural Reserve of Callora Torrent, one of the many "Valloni del Matese", located on the northern side of the Matese, completes the experience, offering an oasis of minimally anthropised biodiversity to be discovered.

Returning to Termoli, a stop at Frosolone is a must. This enchanting mountain village, at an altitude of about 900 metres, is immersed in an unspoilt natural landscape, with secular trees, ponds and suggestive white rocks. The beech woods of Monte Marchetta and Colle dell'Orso are home to lush beech trees over a thousand metres high. The Bosco della Grisciata, rich in cyclamen, snowdrops and delicious mushrooms, is populated by wild animals such as wolves, wild boars and foxes. Frosolone is famous for its high quality cheeses and dairy products, as well as for its specialities made with white and black truffles. The village, included in the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy, is perfect for lovers of outdoor activities, offering the possibility of paragliding, climbing, horse riding and cycling excursions. There are also sports facilities for volleyball, basketball, football and tennis. Not to be missed is the Museo dei Ferri Taglienti, which houses a collection of historic local tools, a symbol of traditional craftsmanship. Continuing along the State Road 618, you can visit the castle of Torella del Sannio and the Castello d'Evoli in Castropignano. The castle of Torella del Sannio, dating back to the 13th century, stands majestically with its crenellated towers and offers a panoramic view of the surrounding hills. Not far away, the Castello d'Evoli of Castropignano, built in the 14th century on the site of a former Sannio fortress, stands on a rocky ridge overlooking a suggestive landscape. For almost two thousand years this castle played an important role as a garrison on the Lucera-Castel di Sangro sheep trail. Both castles are symbols of a past rich in history and culture, ideal for those who wish to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of bygone eras before returning to the tourist port of Marina di San Pietro.