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Palazzo Chigi in Formello: From Medieval Tower to the Museum of Ancient Veii
In the heart of Formello, 20 kilometres from Rome, Palazzo Chigi embodies eight centuries of history within a single building. It began as a watchtower at the end of the 13th century, became a castle under the Orsini, a lordly residence in the 15th century, and a cardinal's seat under the Chigi family in the 17th century. Today it houses the Agro Veientano Museum, with exhibits from prehistory, the Etruscan period and the Roman conquest of Veii in 396 BC. The Parco di Veio is situated along the Via Francigena.
From Fortress to Renaissance Palace
A plaque on the western side bears the date 1373 and the Orsini coat of arms. The real transformation, however, came a century later, in 1464 — the date is carved into the façade — when the palace took on its present form. The arcaded courtyard with octagonal columns in peperino stone, the loggias, the frescoes all date from this period. In 1661 Cardinal Virginio Orsini sold the fief to the Chigi family. The nephew of Pope Alexander VII, Cardinal Flavio Chigi, added an entire storey, and created a "Museum of natural, exotic and antique curiosities" — the precursor of the present museum.
A Contemporary Tower
After 25 years of restoration, the palace reopened in 2011. Architect Andrea Bruno rebuilt the tower in Corten steel: an "emotional staircase" leads to the top, offering a fine view over the entire Agro Veientano (Veio countryside).
