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Church of Archangel St Michael in Formello: hidden frescoes along the Via Francigena
The Church of San Michele Arcangelo is located in the historic centre of Formello, along the Via Francigena — at the point where it intersects with the Michaelic route of the Via Sacra Longobardorum. This Romanesque church, with a tall bell tower, was mentioned in 12th-century documents, and for centuries was one of the town's two parish churches. What makes it special? Beneath the Baroque plaster lies a cycle of frescoes that no one suspected existed.
A story of neglect and rediscovery
The church went through a long dark period. Damaged by severe weather events, it was structurally restored and made safe in 2002, but then closed to the public and abandoned — until someone decided to look beneath the surface, quite literally.
What lies beneath the plaster
The interior has a single nave with Baroque modifications dating to 1630. But the surprise is hidden under a layer of whitewash from the modern era: a decorative fresco cycle dating back to the late 15th century, commissioned by the Orsini family, extending into the first half of the 17th. The restorations, promoted by the Archeoclub of Formello with private sponsors and under the supervision of the cultural heritage Superintendency, have so far uncovered a Madonna and Child with Saints on the counter-façade, a St Lucy in the left nave, Adoring Angels in the apse, and a Madonna of Mercy in the right nave. And the work is not yet complete.
Practical information
The church is located in Via XX Settembre in Formello (RM).
