Epiphany celebrations in Calabria

Ever poised between the sacred and the secular, the Epiphany in Calabria marks the final part of the Christmas holidays and the last opportunity for families to spend time together with their children before returning to their daily routines. The collective imagination views the Befana as the old lady who rides a flying broom and hands out gifts and sweets to children on the night between 5 and 6 January, but in Calabria, the Befana takes on an exceptional character, as it is linked to an ancient folk legend. Calabria's Befana festivity is a moment of magic, during which it seems that animals can speak and judge their owners. If the owners have not behaved well during the year or inadvertently eavesdropped on their conversations, the animals curse them. How can the curse be averted? By talking to them kindly on the eve of the Epiphany and feeding them as many as 13 different foods, just as the master did with his guests on Christmas night.

The Epiphany festive meal in Calabria, on the other hand, is centred on fish and, in particular, features "pasta ammuddicàta", where the pasta sauce is composed of anchovies, stale bread, and salted cod (baccalà). Not to be missed is another Calabrian Epiphany tradition known as the "Strina della Befana". The Strenna originated in the form of a propitiatory chant performed as a good omen for the upcoming agricultural season. In Calabria, the celebration comprises a group of musicians playing typical Calabrian instruments such as bagpipes, tambourines, and pipìte (shawms) while they wander from house to house through the streets. On this "night of miracles", some elderly people also swear they have seen oil coming out of fountains and wine flowing in streams instead of water.

What is there to do during the Epiphany break in Calabria? If you're on holiday with small children or you would like them to meet the Befana, you'll be spoilt for choice. The numerous Christmas Villages scattered north and south are ready to welcome children with traditional Befana Houses, where the friendly old lady has already taken over from her bearded colleague and is ready to receive children's letters. Where can you find the unmissable Christmas Villages? In Reggio Calabria, Gerace (the latter with the magic of the "Enchanted Village"), in Tropea (Province of Vibo Valenzia), in Borgia, and Soverato (Province of Cosenza).

Don't miss the traditional Befana sweets, which you can buy at a pastry shop or make at home and slip into the traditional Befana stocking as a gift for the little ones. Not to be missed are the various pìtte 'nchiùse (or 'mpigliàte, depending on the locality), shortcrust tarts made with leftover dried and candied Christmas fruit; Torrone di Bagnara PGI, liquorice logs made with Liquirizia di Calabria PDO, and chocolate-filled figs.