Bagnara Calabra and Scilla, the historic swordfishing towns

Attested since classical times, swordfishing in Calabria evokes an ancient seafaring tradition, almost comparable to the hand-to-hand struggle between "the old man and the marlin" described by Hemingway in The Old Man and the Sea. The earliest evidence dates back to the 2nd century BC, when historians such as Polybius described the technique in detail. Greek mythology tells us that Achilles' brave spearmen were transformed into swordfish upon his death, when they threw themselves into the sea, and the goddess Thetis turned them into fish armed with spears.
 How are swordfish caught in Calabria? The stretch of sea through which this renowned variety of fish passes is mainly the Strait of Messina, the most perilous channel in the ancient imagination, still the subject of much controversy in relation to its crossing. Experienced and unafraid of danger, Calabrian swordfish fishermen ply its waters in their traditional boats to ensure that this tasty southern fish is on the table every day.
The fishing trips (spatàre) take place on board fast boats: the luntru (fast and manoeuvrable, for daytime fishing), the palamita) equipped with long nets for night fishing) and the classic felucca. Swordfishing in Calabria remains a gory spectacle, but it tells the story of the inseparable relationship between man and nature in areas that live off fishing and have made it part of their identity, to the extent that one of the most common icons of the municipality of Bagnara Calabra depicts a commoner woman, the traditional bagnaròta, balancing a basket on her head with the sharp sword of the fish sticking out.
Some fun facts?  Swordfishing in Calabria is a genuinely sacred ritual and as such involves specific gestures, objects and superstitions. Despite the use of new technological devices, for example, the traditional blue (or red) wooden ball remains an essential feature. It is placed at the top of a pole on the bow and painted with the stars of the Big Dipper, separated by a white band, in reference to ancient Phoenician culture. The most mysterious gesture remains the so-called cardàta da’ crùci, which consists of carving a cross on the right cheek of the swordfish. Unfortunately, the ritual of Greek fishing songs has now been lost. How and where to eat swordfish in Calabria? In the picturesque fishing historic towns of Scilla and Bagnara.

The swordfish of Bagnara, its little "capital", is among the most renowned. Set on the Costa Viola, named after a type of seaweed that colours the entire coastline, the town of Bagnara Calabra is also known as the birthplace of the Bertè sisters of Italian song (Loredana and Mia Martini, to whom a monument in the town is dedicated). Among the specialities of Calabrian food and wine, this beautiful seaside town also stands out for the production of the prized PGI Torrone di Bagnara and IGT Costa Viola wines. The culinary combination of "torrone and swordfish" is one of the most daring pairings in contemporary Calabrian cuisine.
 After a meal of these delicacies, all that remains is to take a stroll along the beautiful promenade overlooking the Strait of Messina, and then discover the historic centre, set on higher ground. Among the oldest remains of Bagnara before the disastrous earthquake of 1908, the 15th-century Aragonese Tower (or Capo Rocchi) survives. In the historic centre, you can visit the Chiesa del Carmine church, located in a square with panoramic views, just like the Castello Ducale Ruffo castle, a little further upstream. From the top of the hill of the same name, the Marturano Trail begins, so you can return to the marina with a pleasant trek through the countryside.
 If you are still hungry for goodness and beauty, continue your trip to Scilla, another essential landmark for Calabrian swordfish. Here, it is prepared in a thousand different ways: from classic swordfish rolls to the very southern swordfish parmigiana, to traditional grilled dishes and fresh pasta paired with aubergines, capers and cherry tomatoes, accompanied by an excellent glass of IGT Scilla wine. Or, for those who want a quick snack, a swordfish sandwich — a typical local street food .
The swordfish restaurants in Scilla are set in a row on traditional platforms on piles at water level in the picturesque fishing village of Chianalea, not surprisingly known as the "Little Venice of the South", because the sea runs between the buildings and boats are literally "parked" beneath the houses. Set in a panoramic position above the historic centre, the imposing Ruffo Castle, standing on a rock, is well worth a visit and is one of the best-preserved fortresses in Calabria. Let's take a stroll to admire the churches and, above all, the sea view from Piazza San Rocco, in the centre of which stands the Statue of Scylla (or the Little Mermaid), a true artistic symbol. To round off your visit, a swim at Marina Grande is the best way to bid farewell to the wonders of the Strait of Messina.