The Sicily of The White Lotus

Poetic, elegant and sophisticated, with Etna watching over it from afar, Taormina has a history stretching back thousands of years. The Romans, Arabs, Normans and Bourbons all conquered it and inhabited it, each leaving indelible traces in its art, architecture, culture, traditions and gastronomy. During the era of the Grand Tour, the city captivated Goethe, who described it as “a little piece of paradise on earth”, as well as Nietzsche, who found inspiration there for Thus Spoke Zarathustra, and Klimt, D’Annunzio and Freud. In the late 1960s, it was a popular destination for the Hollywood jet set, attracting stars such as Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Ava Gardner and Greta Garbo. Now, thanks to the hit TV series The White Lotus, Taormina has become one of the most popular travel destinations for American and international tourists. 

The glory days are far from over, and the city still promises a “dolce vita” holiday experience. You can easily see this for yourself by taking a film tour following in the footsteps of the characters from the second season of The White Lotus. The name of the series refers to the luxury resort hotel chain where the main characters stay. In Taormina, the San Domenico Palace, a former 16th-century convent converted into an exclusive hotel in the 19th century, serves as the location. Its current incarnation is the result of a restyling project commissioned by the chain that has owned and managed it since 2019. The interior design is the work of Valentina Pisani, while landscape architect Marco Bay was responsible for redesigning the Italian-style gardens. 

In the second episode, Ethan heads out for a jog through the city at dawn, making his way along Corso Umberto and Piazza IX Aprile, with its panoramic views overlooking the Baroque church of San Giuseppe, the former church of Sant’Agostino and the clock tower with its crenellated bell tower. Ethan’s run continues uphill to the little church of Madonna della Rocca, which offers incredible views of Taormina and the sea. In the same episode, the scenic backdrop for Portia and the Di Grasso family’s excursion is the ancient theatre of Taormina. This atmospheric and historic site, carved into the rock and featuring panoramic views of Mount Etna and the sea, is one of the city’s key landmarks and a unique setting for shows and events.

The small island of Isola Bella is the location of another memorable scene involving Daphne and Ethan in the season finale, which Mike White leaves open to interpretation. But there’s no denying that Isola Bella is absolutely breathtaking. Connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of pebbles, it is covered in lush vegetation and is now protected as part of the Naxos Archaeological Park.

About an hour’s drive from Taormina, another filming location for the series was the Teatro Massimo Bellini in Catania, where Quentin and his friends take Tanya to the opera.

Noto is a baroque gem that is perfectly suited to posing as a film set, with the dazzling light that reflects off the amber-coloured stone of its buildings and its unparalleled beauty. So beautiful that you won’t know where to look. The city you see today is the result of its reconstruction after the earthquake of 1693, which destroyed the ancient Roman city on Monte Alveria.

Not surprisingly, the town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Mike White chose to shoot some key scenes in the second season of The White Lotus here. 

Harper and Daphne can be seen walking up the steps of the church of San Francesco all’Immacolata, built between 1704 and 1745. The magnificent Cathedral of San Nicolò also features in some scenes. Constructed between 1694 and 1703, it is the city’s most recognisable landmark, towering above a sweeping flight of steps with its magnificent limestone façade. Palazzo Ducezio also makes a striking cameo in The White Lotus: clearly inspired by French architecture, the building is one of architect Vincenzo Sinatra’s most impressive designs. The lower floor, dating back to the mid-18th century, houses the Hall of Mirrors, richly decorated with stucco. 

Last but not least, we come to Villa Elena. In the fifth episode of the series, Tanya (Jennifer Coolidge), abandoned in Taormina by her husband Greg, joins Quentin and his merry band of friends at their villa in Palermo. The real-life location is actually Villa Elena, just outside Noto. A former 17th-century Jesuit monastery, the villa was restored by architect and decorator Jacques Garcia. The rooms have a regal feel to them, with colonnades and sumptuous halls, such as the green room, with its 18th-century French and Italian decorations, and a Caltagirone ceramic fireplace.

The second season of The White Lotus opens at the beach in Cefalù, which stands in for the resort’s private beach. Cefalù is where the series begins and where the story ends. The plot devised by Mike White then begins to rewind from this point. 

Cefalù’s real selling point is that it has an unusual mix of tourist attractions. It boasts one of the most beautiful beaches in Sicily, with clean, crystal-clear water. Its history dates back to the mists of time (the name Cefalù derives from the ancient Greek “Kephaloidion”, meaning “head”, in reference to the rocky outcrop that dominates the town). It is a treasure trove of architectural masterpieces, the finest example being the cathedral, which shimmers with mosaics. The picturesque old town features a row of old houses extending towards the sea, giving Cefalù a picture-postcard look.

As well as on the beach, filming for The White Lotus took place in Piazza Duomo and Via Candeloro, Piazza Marina, the Porto Vecchio pier, Via Porpora and Vicolo Miceli.

A few kilometres from Cefalù, on the road between Palermo and Monreale, lies the stunning Villa Tasca, which serves as the setting for Daphne and Harper’s getaway during their trip to Noto. The villa is now used for hospitality, so it is not open to visitors. Surrounded by a lush, sprawling garden, it dates back to the mid-16th century, and some vestiges from that period still remain. Passed down from owner to owner, it largely retains the neoclassical appearance it acquired in the 18th century. Inside, there are frescoes and majolica depicting rocky landscapes, as well as period pieces that blend well with elements of Italian art and design.