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La Collegiata di San Michele Arcangelo (The Collegiate Church of Saint Michael Archangel) in Arpino: A Baroque Treasure on top of a Pagan Temple
In the heart of Arpino, in Piazza Municipio, the Collegiate Church of Saint Michael Archangel has a dual soul. Built on top of an ancient pagan temple, today it houses Baroque masterpieces, including famous canvases by Giuseppe Cesari, known as Cavalier d'Arpino, who was Caravaggio's master. Its uniqueness, however, lies in the secret hidden behind the altar: nine niches carved into the rock, likely evidence of a temple once dedicated to Apollo and the Muses.
The Art of Cavalier d'Arpino
Upon entering, one’s gaze is immediately drawn to the altarpiece of Archangel Michael defeating Lucifer, a work by Cavalier d'Arpino, who replicated it several times, inspired by Raphael's celebrated Saint Michael, now in the Louvre. The walnut wood pulpit is a masterpiece by Tyrolean sculptor Michele Stolz, decorated with six putti supported by an eagle.
History and Practical Information
The church has a thousand-year history, although its current appearance is the result of reconstruction following the 1654 earthquake. The city wished to honor the sculptor Michele Stolz, who is buried here, under the Altar of the Sacred Heart.
The Collegiate Church is located in Piazza Municipio and is generally open to the public. Admission is free. For opening hours, it is advisable to check with the Arpino Pro Loco (local tourist office), especially during the off-season.
