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Excursions
Pollino itinerary in the footsteps of the ancients: from the Romans to the present day

Walking along the Calabrian Royal Road

Typology
route on foot
Duration
4 days
Number of stages
4
Difficulty
Easy

Have you ever heard of the Calabrian Royal Road? It is the longest and most important road in southern Italy, from antiquity to the last rulers of the Kingdom, decommissioned only in 1962 with the inauguration of the Salerno–Reggio Calabria motorway. The Calabrian Royal Road retraces the original route of the "Capua–Regium" ancient Roman road, with which it shares its history and developments over the centuries: it was traversed by medieval pilgrims, travellers on the "Grand Tour", the armies of Bonaparte, Murat and Garibaldi, and those of the two world wars. Today, the Calabrian Royal Road is one of the most interesting walking routes for lovers of slow travel: a trek on foot that combines history, legends and breathtaking landscapes, passing through the Pollino National Park in the province of Cosenza along its accessible stretch, among authentic villages and natural wonders.

Day 1

On the trail of the Lombards

On the trail of the Lombards

The first stop for those who choose to follow the Calabrian Royal Road in the region is the medieval village of Laino Borgo, in the heart of Pollino National Park and the Lao River Valley Nature Reserve. It is one of the most popular destinations for outdoor enthusiasts who, in addition to hiking, wish to experience the thrill of rafting in Calabria and river excursions. The historic centre of Laino Borgo, among the smallest in Italy, recalls the notable passage of the Lombards through Calabria, along the ancient Capua–Regium route (later known as the Calabrian Royal Road). It also offers visits to the Chiesa Madre del Santo Spirito (Mother Church of the Holy Spirit) and the Sanctuary of Our Lady "dello Spasimo", also known as the Sanctuary of the Chapels, one of the Marian shrines venerated in Calabria.Laino Borgo is one of the places to visit during the Easter rites, when the Good Friday "Giudaica" takes place, the long procession of participants that stages the Passion of Christ.

Day 2

Campotenese, the "Provence of Calabria"

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The second stage of the walk along the Calabrian Royal Road is the town of Campotenese, a hamlet of Morano Calabro. This place is known as the "Provence of Calabria", do you know why? If you visit in summer, between late June and late August, the scent and purple hues of the fields immediately reveal why: you are at the heart of the Campotenese Lavender Park, one of the major lavender-growing areas in southern Italy. Here grows a distinctive species of lavender native to Calabria, Lavanda loricata (whose name recalls the Pino Loricato (Bosnian pine), the symbol of the Pollino National Park), also known as "Loricanda". The visit makes it possible to admire around 60 varieties within a single-species botanical garden, each presented with clear and accessible explanations for enthusiasts. Posting a photo with your own bunch of Loricanda is a must!

Day 3

The Pollino Nativity Scene

The Pollino Nativity Scene

From Campotenese to the historic centre of Morano Calabro, the third stopover on the Calabrian Royal Road, the stretch is a rather rough but short. Among the Most Beautiful Villages in ItalyMorano Calabro is known as the Pollino Nativity Scene, both for its distinctive medieval layout – which rises from the ancient San Nicola quarter up to the ruins of the Morano Calabro Norman-Swabian castle – and for the famous Living Nativity of Morano, which each year brings Christmas to life with hundreds of participants. The yellow-and-blue majolica tiles of the dome of the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, mark the town's main religious building. Inside, it houses a precious Madonna of the Angels by Antonello Gagini (1505) as well as the Chapel of Saint Sylvester. Not to be missed are the Museum of the History of Agriculture and Pastoralism and the Pollino Il Nibbio Naturalistic Studies Centre. Did hiking along the Calabrian Royal Road whet your appetite? We recommend trying the village’s signature dish: Stoccu e Patèni, a delicious stockfish with potatoes and dried peppers (crùschi).

Day 4

The "Capital of Pollino"

The "Capital of Pollino"

The itinerary along the Calabrian Royal Road concludes in the city of Castrovillari, aptly known as the "Capital of Pollino" and the "City of Carnival", home to the region's most important Historical Carnival. The historic centre coincides with the ancient Cìvita quarter, which is home to the monumental Aragonese Castle, designed by the military engineer Francesco di Giorgio Martini; the thirteenth-century Franciscan Protoconvent, founded by Pietro Cathin and now the city's main multifunctional hub for culture and the arts (home to the SiMuCCà – Castrovillari City Museum System); and the Church of Saint Joseph, Castrovillari (16th century), whose interior features a sixteenth-century fresco of the Madonna of Constantinople and two important paintings. Beyond the carnival season, Castrovillari also hosts a major spring event, the Primavera dei Teatri festival, dedicated to contemporary theatre, as well as the International Folklore Festival  in the summer, during which a summer edition of the Carnival is also held.

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