James Bond in Gallura. Travels with Roger Moore in the Sardinian paradise

Palau, overlooking the north-eastern coast of Sardinia, is not only the ideal boarding point for a boat trip to the Maddalena Archipelago National Park, but also the starting point for James Bond’s Sardinian adventure in The Spy Who Loved Me. It’s where, in the town’s harbour, the futuristic Lotus Esprit, designed for the secret agent, makes its spectacular entrance. The film’s producer, Albert Broccoli, actually provided the director with two cars of the same model, plus a number of additional car bodies. One car would be used for the on-board scenes, the other for the exterior shots of the chase sequences. The charm of Palau immediately shines through on the big screen, but it reveals its full potential if, like Roger Moore, you choose to stop here for a few days: its white sandy beaches and hidden coves are perfect for relaxation, while boat trips promise unforgettable experiences. Action lovers can enjoy water sports, snorkelling and trekking, while those seeking luxury can enjoy gourmet dinners at sunset and stays in elegant resorts.

Porto Cervo is the heart of the Gallura coast. Synonymous with luxury and elegance, but also with the sea and natural beauty, with its fine sandy beaches and crystal clear waters, it is one of the most glamorous destinations in the world: it is frequented by big names in business and international jet-set celebrities, who often arrive here on board their luxury yachts. This resort in Gallura gained cult status in the 1960s and 1970s and became world-famous thanks in part to cinema, especially through its association with James Bond films. In The Spy Who Loved Me, the secret agent stays at the iconic Cala di Volpe hotel, overlooking the bay of the same name, an enchanting stretch of coastline just south of the town of Porto Cervo. With its distinctive architecture reminiscent of traditional fishing villages, exceptional sea views, discreet staff and top-level services, the hotel continues to attract VIPs from all over the world. In the film, you can spot the reception desk, the marina and the piano bar, which is the setting for some of the most glamorous scenes. And in case you were wondering, Bond is given suite A5 in the film.
A stone’s throw from Cala di Volpe is another iconic location from the film, Capriccioli beach, where the secret agent and the beautiful Anya emerge from the water in the Lotus Esprit, which turns out to double as a underwater vehicle. She had jumped into the sea from the pier near the Hotel Pitrizza, located 5 km north-west of the town of Porto Cervo. 

The atmosphere in the picturesque alleys of the village of San Pantaleo, in the municipality of Olbia, is peaceful and enchanting. Imagine 007 and his Bond girl, the sensual Russian spy Anya Amasova, speeding through these winding alleys, the roar of the Lotus Esprit echoing off the stone walls, while the helicopter chasing them circles overhead. The Mediterranean sun illuminates the scene, making the action even more vibrant. This is exactly what happened in 1976, when parts of the chase scene in The Spy Who Loved Me were filmed on Provincial Road 94 and the surrounding area. A 15-minute drive from San Pantaleo (a little less if you drive a car like Roger Moore’s) takes you to Arzachena. It’s a town rich in history and culture, with its nuraghi and Giants’ tombs that bear witness to an ancient and mysterious past: jewels in the hinterland of the Gallura coast, waiting to be discovered.

On the north-western coast of Sardinia, the Porto Conte Regional Park and the Capo Caccia–Isola Piana Marine Protected Area, in the Alghero area, conserve places of wild beauty, imposing limestone cliffs, mysterious sea caves and surprising biodiversity. In the summer of 1976, this unspoilt corner of the island was chosen as the backdrop for filming other adrenaline-fuelled scenes from the cult chase in The Spy Who Loved Me: Bond, at the wheel of his phenomenal Lotus Esprit, speeds along the park’s winding, panoramic coastal roads. The fast-paced music and panoramic shots create the necessary dramatic tension. A menacing motorcycle is fast approaching. Suddenly, a lorry appears around a bend, blocking the road. An assassin on a motorbike launches a sidecar-like bomb at the Lotus. But, realising the danger, Bond overtakes the lorry in a daring manoeuvre and narrowly avoids a collision. The assassin, caught up in the explosion, loses control of his motorbike and plunges over the cliffs, disappearing into the waters near the Grotta Verde. We’re on the last stretch of Provincial Road 55, where the landscape of Porto Conte and Capo Caccia adds wild beauty to the intensity of the action.

Santa Teresa Gallura, as the name suggests, is an enchanting corner of Gallura, on the northern coast of Sardinia. Imagine walking hand in hand with your loved one along the harbour, where the boats sway gently, perhaps at sunset, when the Capo Testa lighthouse lights up on the horizon. The salty scent of the sea mixes with the cool evening breeze, creating a magical atmosphere. The winding alleys and picturesque coves seem like the perfect backdrop for Agent 007’s romantic escapades: Roger Moore would be spoilt for choice when it comes to finding the perfect outdoor terrace to enjoy a glass of Vermentino di Gallura. Instead, Lewis Gilbert, the director of The Spy Who Loved Me, uses Santa Teresa Gallura as the setting for one of the most humorous scenes in the entire film. This is where Squalo, the man with steel teeth who is hunting Bond on behalf of Stromberg, crashes his Ford Taunus into a shepherd’s hut near Rena Bianca beach, in a sequence that combines fast-paced action with a touch of comedy.