Shapes and colours of Romanesque architecture: a tour of the churches of northern Sardinia

Departure for the Saccargia plain, in the district of Codrongianos. Here, you cannot miss the tall dark bell tower that stands in a green valley: it is the Basilica of the Holy Trinity of Saccargia. Considered Sardinia's masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, this temple immediately impresses with its perfect two-tone appearance, an alternation of blocks of light limestone and dark basalt reminiscent of Tuscan churches of the same period.

Its history goes back to 1112, when, according to tradition, it was founded by Judge Constantine I of Torres and donated to the Camaldolese monks. Before entering, admire the portico added at the end of the 13th century. The capitals are decorated with monstrous figures and fantastic animals. Inside, the single nave leads to three apses. Don't miss the basilica's most precious gem: the only cycle of Romanesque frescoes that is fully preserved on the island, which decorates the central apse. It is the perfect starting point for this journey into the Sardinian Middle Ages. The next leg takes us to nearby Ardara.

Leaving Saccargia, the itinerary continues to Ardara, a village perched on the slopes of the Montesanto. At the entrance to the village stands the second stop: the basilica of Our Lady of the Kingdom. Unlike the Saccargia two-tone colour scheme, here the scene is dominated by the imposing elegance of the dark basalt. Situated near the ruins of the royal palace of the judges of Torres, its location is no coincidence: this was the palace chapel where the sovereigns took their oaths and were buried.

Consecrated in 1107, the church has a simple Romanesque structure. The three-nave interior holds a priceless treasure that contrasts sharply with the dark stone: the Ardara High Altar. It is the largest 16th-century polyptych in Sardinia, a twelve-metre-high depiction of Salvation History. Also noteworthy are the distinctive cylindrical pillars decorated with figures of apostles and saints. From here, we move on to the last majestic stage, in the district of Ozieri.

The itinerary ends in the countryside of Ozieri, where the basilica of Sant'Antioco di Bisarcio is perched on a volcanic spur, overlooking the Chilivani plain. Its scenic location and quiet seclusion enhance its charm. More than a simple church, this was the seat of the diocese of Bisarchium (its historical record dating back to 1065).

Constructed in dark trachyte, the imposing building was erected in several phases after a fire destroyed the first structure in the late 11th century. Its most distinctive Sardinian Romanesque feature is the evocative front portico, built on two levels in the early 13th century. The lower floor is rich in sculptural decorations, while the upper floor housed the bishop's private chapel. In a dim light conducive to prayer, rows of columns and pillars divide the interior into three naves. Decorated with diamond-shaped motifs, the external apse reflects the Pisan style. This stage closes an extraordinary journey through the Romanesque art of Logudoro.