Canavese Experience - Three days in Canavese

The journey begins in Chivasso, considered the southern gateway to Canavese, where a long bridge crosses the River Po and a poplar-lined avenue leads to the historic center. Here, the octagonal tower of the ancient castle and the elegant late-Gothic terracotta façade of the Cathedral stand as striking landmarks. Nothing in the old part of the city hints at its significant industrial development; instead, it preserves a 19th-century charm.

Chivasso is also famous for its “Carnevalone” (Great Carnival), and strolling beneath its arcades and among its shops, you might come across one of the richest fruit and vegetable markets in the Canavese area.

As a possible detour from Chivasso, you can follow the road that runs alongside the Cavour Canal (1883–86), the third longest in Italy (80 km), reaching Verolengo—a charming village with roots dating back to ancient Roman times.

Continuing toward Caluso and beyond, the pristine landscape of Candia Canavese and its lake—today’s second stop—is well worth a visit.

On the hilltop overlooking the village rises the Romanesque Church of Santo Stefano del Monte, built in the 11th century and once home to a Benedictine priory. The most evocative part of the church, divided into three naves, is the crypt, supported by slender columns and decorated capitals. Until 1970, it housed a highly venerated painted marble statue of the Madonna and Child, now preserved in the parish church of Candia. From the meadow surrounding the church, there is a breathtaking view of the lake.

Just a few minutes from the center lies Lake Candia, one of the most fascinating wetlands in Piemonte—a nature reserve and a favorite destination for birdwatching enthusiasts. Measuring 2.2 km in length and 900 meters in width, and sitting at 226 meters above sea level, the lake is protected by a provincial nature park. It is home to a rich variety of resident and migratory birdlife, offering shelter to many species that nest and winter in the marshy northern shores. The lake offers a peaceful spot to relax and enjoy the untouched natural surroundings. Marked dirt trails are available for mountain biking, with rental options along the lakeshore. The calm waters are ideal for kayaking, canoeing, Canadian canoeing, and dragon boating.

The road continues, offering views of the wide expanse of water—often crossed by rowers—reflected against the backdrop of the alpine mountains. Beyond the lake, the Canavese plain unfolds, dotted with cornfields and offering scenic views of the Ivrea Morainic Amphitheater. The landscape begins to change, as the road winds through the vineyards of the Royal Wine Route and horse farms—horses being a distinctive feature of the region—until it reaches the historic center and panoramic viewpoint of Mazzè, where the castle towers over the landscape.

From here, the route descends toward the Dora River, crossing distinctive glacial terraces and a characteristic red-brick bridge from which the river’s hydroelectric barriers can be seen. Passing through flower-filled villages and “Scottish-like” lakes, the journey leads to the picturesque village of Maglione, famous for its murals, before returning to the plain, dotted with villas beautifully positioned on the hillsides.

After immersing ourselves in the unspoiled nature of Candia, we are ready for the third stop of the day: the thousand-year-old Castle of Masino and its grand Park.

The Municipality of Caravino is situated on the hill overlooking the village and leading to the enchanting Castle of Masino. The castle is one of the most incredible noble residences in all of Piedmont and a place of great interest: a thousand years of history, a centuries-old park, and all around, a unique landscape nestled against the moraine barrier of the Serra di Ivrea. Today, it is owned by the FAI (Italian National Trust), and visitors can explore its interiors, featuring spacious halls decorated and furnished with antique furniture, rooms of rare and refined opulence.

Before entering the castle itself, it’s worth visiting the large Castle Park that surrounds the estate, along with its marvelous 18th-century labyrinth based on the original archival designs from that century. Now in a romantic style, having been remodeled several times and landscaped in the English style in the 19th century, the park is at its best in spring, when cascades of flowers in every shape and color bloom—consider that over 110,000 daffodils and 7,000 spirea van houttey plants have been planted here.

The castle is also ideal for visiting with children thanks to its various attractions: the labyrinth, the Tower of the Winds, the underground passages, and numerous activities offered to young visitors make the trip even more fun and adventurous.

The route continues through Azeglio, where the residence formerly belonged to Massimo d’Azeglio, with the straight profile of the Serra mountains in the background.

Finally, you arrive at the blue gem and pristine nature of Lake Viverone, the fourth and last stop of the first day.

After passing through Azeglio, you reach Lake Viverone, one of the most beautiful swimmable lakes in Italy. A happy oasis offering beaches, sunshine, relaxation, and wind for sailing boats, it is a true paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, with water sports and numerous trails to explore by bike or on foot around its shores. The lake is also a protected natural area and is one of the seven swimmable lakes in the region.

Lake Viverone has an ancient history evidenced by an important pile-dwelling archaeological site that has become a UNESCO World Heritage site, included in the system of Alpine pile-dwelling sites—a unique collection of culturally rich and exceptionally preserved archaeological sites that tell the story of a millennia-old civilization that developed between the Neolithic and the Bronze Age.

During the day, the lake offers various sports and recreational activities such as fishing, water skiing, sailing, canoeing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, pedal boating, stand-up paddleboarding, and tours on comfortable tourist boats. The lake’s perimeter is about thirty kilometers long and is easily accessible on foot or by bike via well-maintained roads, dirt paths, or paved trails.

This extraordinary natural setting marks the end of the first day’s journey in Canavese. On the second day, we will explore the city of Ivrea.

Leaving Viverone, the panorama stretches from the lake to the slopes of the Serra, covered with vineyards, where the sunny towns of Zimone and Piverone rest in beautiful positions. The route then reaches Palazzo Canavese, which offers a lovely elevated view of its historic center, featuring an ancient bell tower. Crossing the plain at the foot of the Serra, you arrive at Bollengo and Burolo.

If desired, you can pass through Chiaverano, home to the thousand-year-old Church of Santo Stefano di Sessano, or Cascinette d’Ivrea, with its parish church dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua from the late 18th century.

Next is Ivrea, announced from afar by the cylindrical towers of its 14th-century castle. The Dora Baltea River, which retains much of its lively character even within the town, adds a special atmosphere to Ivrea. This Piedmontese town, the capital of Canavese, is also famous for its Carnival and the Battle of the Oranges, but it’s worth a stroll just to explore its industrial heart linked to Camillo and Adriano Olivetti.

For this reason, Ivrea has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Even today, the people of Ivrea live with the memory of an era that was crucial for the entire industrial history of Italy and the world. A city built for work but also for the workers-citizens, fostering human, social, and cultural growth for families and the factory around which some of the most famous architects of the time worked, and where philosophers, sociologists, and writers gathered to develop a strong sense of community.

The last Piedmontese village before the Valle d’Aosta, Carema lies just beyond the hamlet of Cesnola, where a fine viewpoint overlooks the vineyards. The pretty settlement takes its name from the ancient customs duty (dazio) once paid here by merchants moving goods between Italy and Gaul.

Steep alleys climb past houses roofed with flat stone lòse, punctuated by evocative arches and traditional wooden balconies. The village sits amid historic hillside terraces and lends its name to a red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes—the same noble variety behind Barolo and Barbaresco—grown on “heroic” vineyards clinging to the mountain.

The Vineyard Trail is a 4-km loop that starts at the Cantina dei Produttori del Nebbiolo di Carema. It winds through characteristic terraced plots—trained both to pergola and to espalier—along mule tracks and beneath the stone-pillared topie pergolas. The circuit also embraces the medieval core, the Gran Masun—an early-medieval fortified house that once served as garrison, courthouse and jail—and the 17th-century Chapel of San Rocco.

“Si quis sitit veniat ad me et bibat” (“If anyone thirsts, let him come to me and drink”) reads the Latin inscription beside the 16th-century fountain in Via Basilia. Even older is the San Matteo Fountain (1460) near the Suplin Chapel (1649). Not far away stands the Ugoneti Manor House, former residence of Carema’s feudal lords.

The parish church of San Martino dates to 1261, though later remodelled; its 60-metre stone bell tower (1769) is unique in Piedmont.

From Carema, atmospheric mule tracks climb to the ruins of Castruzzone Castle (Castello di Castruzzone), a 12th-century fortress perched on a rocky spur above the hamlet of Airale, and onward to Torredaniele, whose little church is well worth a visit

The route sets off from Ivrea, initially crossing the broad Eporediese Plain – skirting the cutting-edge Bioindustry Park – and then, after a series of glacier-carved terraces, climbing into Upper Canavese.

Passing Colleretto Giacosa, celebrated as the birthplace (1847) of Giuseppe Giacosa, Puccini’s librettist for Tosca, La Bohème and Madama Butterfly, you can take a rewarding detour into the Valchiusella: one of Canavese’s most enchanting corners and a hikers’ paradise.

From here a short ride reaches Torre Canavese, a steep village perched on a hilltop. The remains of its medieval ricetto (fortified refuge) still crown the summit, while every street in the historic centre is tiled with murals by artists from all over the world.

Back on the main route you arrive at Agliè, a delightful borgo wrapped in woods and farmland. The highlight is the captivating Ducal Castle – Agliè Castle (Castello di Agliè), whose present form reflects successive building phases culminating in a Savoy residence: more than 300 rooms, an Italianate parterre, a landscaped park with fountains and historic glasshouses. 

Once you leave Agliè Castle (Castello di Agliè), the road skirts Lake Gerbola and winds through vineyards and wineries with sweeping views over the Canavese villages. Your “castles trail” can continue in San Giorgio Canavese, where Biandrate Castle (Castello dei Biandrate) stands guard, before reaching nearby Caluso. Here an orderly, hypnotic sea of vines marks the homeland of delicately perfumed Erbaluce di Caluso, a flagship of Piedmontese oenology.

Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG comes from an ancient local grape; its vines today cluster around Caluso, San Giorgio Canavese, Agliè, Piverone and Viverone, hugging the Ivrea moraine ridge. The wine ages gracefully and is produced in four styles: still, traditional method sparkling, passito and passito riserva.

In the upper part of the village, the Enoteca Regionale dei Vini della Provincia di Torino (Regional Wine Centre of the Province of Turin) showcases the area’s rich vinous heritage inside the historic palace of the Counts Valperga di Masino. Set on a small piazza that still breathes old-world charm and shaded by centuries-old trees, the Enoteca offers a complete tasting experience: more than 100 m² of exhibition space and a spacious tasting hall introduce visitors to the leading labels of local producers. A tour through the restored 17th-century cellars guides you to the typical wines of each Canavese zone, enhanced by an array of the province’s signature food specialities.