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The Porta Romana in Priverno: the Ruin That Saved the Road to Rome
In Piazza XX Settembre, at the end of Via Zaccaleoni, a limestone arch rises in isolation among the houses. It is the Porta Romana of Priverno — today incorrectly called the Arco di San Marco (St Mark's Arch) — only one of the two surviving medieval gateways (the other is Porta Napoletana). It was built in the 12th century, when the hilltop city surrounded itself with a circuit of walls 1,600 metres long, with 72 towers and six gates. The most important road in the town passed through this round arch: the one that led to Rome.
A Demolition Averted
At the beginning of the 20th century, the authorities decided to demolish the medieval gates "to allow for better air circulation". This hygienist concept caused irreparable damage elsewhere. Here, fortunately, someone called a halt to the madness. The gate is no longer intact: it is a ruin, with wild plants flowering between the stones and fig suckers sprouting from the joints. But it is still there.
This Is Where the Town Begins
Passing through the arch, one enters Via Consolare, the main axis that bisects the medieval quarter. Stone alleyways climb in concentric rings towards the summit of the hill, with steep stairways connecting the various levels. Those arriving from Rome in the Middle Ages saw this: a controlled passage, a checkpoint, and behind it a hilltop village that had taken refuge high up to escape brigands and Saracens.
