Collegiata di San Giovanni Battista: final stop before the Eternal City
The Collegiate Church of St John the Baptist is the religious heart of Campagnano di Roma, the final stage of the Via Francigena before reaching the capital. The current building dates to 1515, erected on the remains of a 13th-century structure, which took fifteen years to complete. Of the medieval façade, only the Gothic portal and a large rose window are still standing — the latter now bricked up — while the Baroque bell tower was added in 1602.
The 16th century interior
The church has three naves, columns, and round arches. The coffered ceiling of the central nave is the work of Giacomo Del Duca, a pupil of Michelangelo, who completed it in 1582. He was also responsible for the wooden choir in the presbytery. The side naves feature groin vaults and niches housing altars, statues and frescoes — ten lateral altars in total, plus one closing off the left nave.
The Zuccari frescoes
The presbytery is adorned with the Stories of the Virgin and the Stories of St John the Baptist, a fresco cycle by the brothers Federico and Taddeo Zuccari. The church’s façade is now partly concealed by buildings that have grown up around it over the centuries. One must step into the side alley to see the building in its entirety .
Practical information
The collegiate church stands in Piazza Fontana Secca. The patron saint's feast day falls on 29 August, celebrated as the Feast of St John the Beheaded (San Giovanni Decollato).