Valleys to Discover: exploring the Metauro and Cesano valleys

Along the Salt Route, following the coast from the Marches to Emilia-Romagna, you arrive at Marina dei Cesari, the perfect answer for sailors looking for a safe and pleasant mooring, just a short distance from the historic centre of Fano, from where you can enjoy the fascinating combination of past and present that surrounds the entire town.

Once moored, we walk along the cobbled streets parallel to the cardo and decumanus of the ancient Fanum Fortunae until we reach the 16th century Fountain of Fortune in Piazza XX Settembre, overlooked by the 19th century Theatre of Fortune, with a horseshoe-shaped auditorium, three rows of boxes, a balcony gallery and 595 seats, and the Corte Malatestiana, which houses the Civic Museum and Art Gallery, with works by Domenichino, Guido Reni, Guercino, Giovanni Francesco Guerrieri, Mattia Preti and others. Not far from the square are the Church of Santa Maria Nuova, the baroque Church of San Pietro in Valle and the Malatesta tombs, a true masterpiece of neo-Gothic art, housed in the portico of the church of San Francesco.

Continuing towards the Arch of Augustus, we come to the Art Gallery of San Domenico, the Church of Sant'Agostino, the Cathedral, which preserves a pulpit and the 17th-century Baroque Nolfi Chapel, and the Malatesta Fortress, surrounded by steep walls with sturdy corner towers, but without its keep.

This leads to the monumental Arch of Augustus, which has always been the symbol of the city of Fano and the gateway to the ancient Via Flaminia. Built where the Via Flaminia meets the Decumanus Maximus of the city, the monument dates back to 9 A.D., according to the inscription on the frieze. During the walk, it is worth stopping to taste the brodetto alla fanese and the Moretta, gastronomic specialities of the city famous for its Carnival, the oldest in Italy.

Just outside Fano, on a steep, tree-lined road that takes you away from the noise of the city and into the sounds of nature, is the Hermitage of Monte Giove, built on the summit of the homonymous hill.

Once inside the entrance gate, the bright central avenue leads to the eighteenth-century church; next to it, history lives on in the Old Pharmacy, while access to the panoramic terrace offers a spectacle that embraces the beauty of the surrounding nature. At the beginning of the avenue, on the right, are the guesthouse and the conference room, while on the left are the refectory, the library and the kitchen. Continuing along the avenue, surrounded by low walls, you will discover the monks' cells, designed to meet the spiritual and material needs of their inhabitants, and surrounded by a small garden. The hermitage of Monte Giove is closely linked to the more famous Monastery of Fonte Avellana, located at the foot of Mount Catria, in the municipality of Serra Sant'Abbondio, mentioned by Dante in the Canto XXI of Paradiso in the Divine Comedy.

The aura of holiness that surrounds the Monte Giove area is confirmed by the proximity of the Hermitage to the evocative Monastery of Saints Benedict and Scholastica. Immersed in a landscape dominated by the imposing presence of centuries-old olive trees, this place conveys a sense of tranquillity and contemplation, where nature reigns over the work of man and the spirit transcends matter. An invitation to recollection and thoughtful reflection, in which the breath of spirituality blends harmoniously with the beauty of creation.

Leaving the Adriatic coast behind and following the ancient Via Flaminia, we reach Cartoceto, founded by a group of Carthaginians who fled the Battle of Metauro during the Second Punic War (218-201 B.C.). The town is particularly famous for its Cartoceto DOP extra virgin olive oil, which is produced in Cartoceto and several other towns in the provinces of Pesaro and Urbino. Cartoceto is part of the National Association of Oil Towns, being one of the thirty founding members. In June there is Cartoceto con Gusto e Tradizione (Cartoceto with Taste and Tradition), a celebration of the famous vincisgrassi, a festival created in 1963 to celebrate this tasty dish of Marche tradition; in November there is Cartoceto DOP - Mostra Mercato dell'Olio e dell'Oliva (Olive Oil and Olive Fair), an event of national importance created in 1977 to promote the prestigious Cartoceto DOP oil. If you still have time, a few kilometres from Cartoceto is the Balì Museum a science centre inaugurated in 2004 and housed in a splendid 18th century villa in the town of Colli al Metauro, the perfect place to approach science and discover its secrets in an entertaining way.

The itinerary continues to Fossombrone, an ancient town of Roman origin located in the middle Metauro valley, along the route of the ancient Flaminia.  It rises a little above the river plain, where once stood the settlement of Forum Sempronii, possibly named after the tribune of the plebs, Gaius Sempronius Gracchus, when it was founded in application of the lex Sempronia (around 130 BC). The archaeological park of the same name bears witness to this period. A stroll through the historic centre reveals some remarkable buildings: the Corte Bassa, residence of the Dukes of Urbino; the Corte Alta, or Ducal Palace, enlarged by Francesco Di Giorgio Martini in 1466-1470, which today houses the Civic Art Gallery and the Augusto Venarucci Civic Museum, with exhibits on prehistory, sub-Apennine and Piceno culture and a large section dedicated to the Roman Forum Sempronii; the 16th-century Palazzo Cattabeni, Palazzo Dedi with its typical flat ashlar façade and the Palazzo Comunale. The Corte Rossa (Red Court) houses private homes. Palazzo Pergamini-Negri is well worth a visit and houses the Quadreria Cesarini, which contains over 60 paintings and graphic works by Anselmo Bucci, as well as modern and contemporary art. For the more adventurous, we recommend a visit to the San Lazzaro Gorge, a place of extraordinary natural beauty just outside the town of Fossombrone. This gorge, carved out over the millennia by the Metauro river, offers a unique spectacle characterised by impressive rock formations and the presence of large circular cavities known as the “Marmitte dei Giganti”. Popular legend has it that these caves were created by the giants as pots in which to cook game, adding a touch of mystery and fascination to this evocative place. About 500 metres long, the gorge has water depths ranging from 20 centimetres to 18 metres and vertical limestone walls covered with lush vegetation that rise to a height of about 30 metres. The course of the river is characterised by small waterfalls that interrupt the calm flow of the water, creating a magical and refreshing atmosphere. From the “Ponte dei Saltelli”, or Diocletian's Bridge, near the Via Flaminia, it is possible to admire the beauty of this corner of unspoilt nature. During the summer season, local associations organise exciting canoe excursions along the Metauro River, giving visitors the opportunity to discover the wonders of the San Lazzaro Gorge at close quarters. The excursions often end with a refreshing swim in the crystal clear waters of the river, offering moments of pure fun and relaxation in the midst of nature.

The second day of this itinerary ends with an unforgettable experience in the spectacular Furlo Gorge, a natural masterpiece created by the incessant erosion of the Candigliano river, a tributary of the retauro River, between the imposing peaks of Mount Pietralata and Mount Paganuccio. From the Visitor Centre of the Furlo Gorge State Nature Reserve, visitors can follow an exciting itinerary along the ancient Flaminia road, skirting the majestic cliffs that rise hundreds of metres above the water. This landscape offers views that enchant and captivate the eye. The ancient tunnel dug by the Emperor Vespasian at the narrowest point of the gorge, known as "petra pertusa" or "forulum", is a tangible testimony to the millennial history of this land. Next to it is an Etruscan gallery, an imposing testimony to the antiquity of this place. Not far from the gallery, the striking little church of Botte, once inhabited by a hermit, adds a touch of mystery and spirituality to this breathtaking landscape.

At the end of the day, we recommend tasting some of the typical dishes and seasonal specialities of the area, including one of the most precious products of the land: the Acqualagna truffle, to which the museum of the same name is dedicated. Acqualagna is not only famous for the National White Truffle Fair in October and November, but also for being the birthplace of Enrico Mattei.

Continuing along the route, we come to Mondavio, not far from Fratte Rosa. Here stands the Rocca, commissioned by Giovanni della Rovere and built by the famous Sienese architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini between 1482 and 1492. Its octagonal keep majestically dominates the imposing fortress and leads to a passageway protected by a charming little tower. This leads to a massive semicircular tower connected by a bridge to the entrance ravelin. Inside, the original layout has been largely preserved and houses the “Museum of Historical Re-enactment and Armoury”, with costumed dummies and weapons from the 15th to the 18th centuries. In the moat of the Rocca is Francesco di Giorgio Martini's Park of War Machines, with life-size reconstructions of catapults, trabucchi, bombards and other siege machines. The adventure continues towards Terre Roveresche, an enchanting mosaic of ancient villages created by the union of the municipalities of Barchi, Orciano di Pesaro, Piagge and San Giorgio di Pesaro. Here the doors open to places and museums not to be missed, dedicated to the crafts and traditional trades that have shaped the soul of these areas. In Barchi, the “Museo delle terrecotte e Banda Grossi” tells the stories and traditions that have forged the identity of this land. The centuries-old terracotta industry and the exploits of the Banda Grossi, a group that operated in the area during the period of Italian unification, tell of craftsmanship and courage that have remained in the collective imagination. In the heart of Orciano di Pesaro, next to the square dedicated to the famous artist Giò Pomodoro, stands the ”Museo della Corda e del Mattone”, a tribute to the traditions of the past, where ancient trades such as rope-making are interwoven with the history of brick-making, preserving the memory of a time of hard work and dedication. San Giorgio di Pesaro is home to the “Museo Storico Ambientale Marchigiano”, a fascinating historical and environmental museum that tells of the deep link between traditional activities and the surrounding environment, with all its fauna and flora. Finally, in Piagge, an ancient village also known as "Lubacaria", there is the evocative “Grotta Ipogea”, a mediaeval sanctuary dug out of the sandstone at a depth of seven metres. A place full of mystery and spirituality, immersed in the millenary history of this fascinating territory.

The route back to Fano passes through Fratte Rosa, a charming village perched on the top of a hill that offers one of the most spectacular views in the province of Pesaro and Urbino, overlooking the central valleys of the Cesano and Metauro rivers. This place is famous for the ancient and noble tradition of terracotta handicraft. The history of Fratte Rosa dates back to 1216, when the convent of Santa Vittoria was founded, inspired by the passionate preaching of St. Francis. The ancient centre of the village, with its characteristic spiral layout, is enclosed within mediaeval walls and retains its picturesque pink brick houses intact. In the narrow, winding streets you can still breathe the atmosphere of a bygone era, lost among the architectural beauties and charming corners of this enchanting village, such as the 14th-century Malatesta well, the imposing 19th-century church of San Giorgio, characterised by a high, massive bell tower that gives the village panorama a distinctive and evocative character, the town hall and the 18th-century church of San Marco. Just outside the built-up area is the Convent of Santa Vittoria, which dates back to the time of the Ravenna monks of San Apollinare in Classe, who settled in the area around the year 1000. According to legend, the current convent was founded in 1216 by St Francis of Assisi during one of his journeys to these lands. Over the centuries, the monastery has also hosted illustrious religious figures such as St Joseph of Cupertino and St Charles Borromeo. During the Second World War the church and part of the convent were badly damaged, but thanks to subsequent restoration work the convent is now home to the Terracotta Museum, which preserves and promotes the important artistic and cultural heritage related to this ancient art.

Continuing along the evocative ridge that separates the Metauro and Cesano valleys, not far from the coast, is San Costanzo, the last stop on the itinerary before returning to Fano. For those who love history and nature, San Costanzo offers a dense network of historical-naturalistic trails, including "Su e Giù per le Valli" (Up and Down the Valleys) and "Valle dei Tufi" (the Tufa Valley), a true paradise for hikers and mountain bikers. From the panoramic peaks, the landscape reveals a series of fascinating natural images, with breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea and the first peaks of the Apennines, painted many times with the warmth and love of the local nature painter Roberto Natale Patrizi. In the old town centre, do not miss the Teatro Storico della Concordia, which hosts a lively theatre season, and the architectural beauty of the Collegiata Church and the Church of Sant'Agostino. A short distance away is the picturesque hamlet of Cerasa di San Costanzo, a little gem with an access bridge offering breathtaking views. Since the first decade of the 20th century, San Costanzo has been celebrating its traditions with the historic Sagra Polentara, a must for gourmets in search of authentic flavours and "forgotten dishes” of local tradition. An irresistible invitation to immerse yourself in the delights of local cuisine and discover the authentic essence of this fascinating town.