Ligurian food and wine: from historic bakeries to craft breweries
2 minutes
Liguria’s food and wine culture has its roots in the region’s most ancient history, from the Ligurians’ first barley drinks to the pastry shops that flourished thanks to trade and the great Genoese families. The region preserves a tradition of authentic flavours and artisanal techniques handed down over the centuries. Today, amid craft breweries and historic shops, food and wine tourism offers an experience that combines flavour, culture and the discovery of Ligurian villages.
Beer in Liguria: what is the story behind a tradition spanning over 2,800 years?
Ancient Liguria was deeply linked to the culture of beer. The Greek historian Strabo, who lived between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD, reports that the Ligurians consumed a barley drink that was particularly popular among the populations of the coast and the hinterland. This beverage, known as bryton, was probably a pale, light beer made from grains such as barley and spelt, and was part of their diet as early as pre-Roman times.
Archaeological finds also provide evidence of this. In the Chiavari necropolis, artefacts have been discovered that testify to the production and consumption of beer as early as the 8th century BC. Today, this ancient tradition lives on thanks to Ligurian craft breweries, which have sprung up mainly since the 1990s, following the rise of craft beer in Italy. Visiting a brewery in Liguria means discovering a product that brings together history, the local area and authentic flavours.
The production of craft beer also has a place in Liguria, thanks to breweries that have contributed to the rediscovery of this ancient beverage. Among these, the Maltus Faber Brewery and the Busalla Brewery are two of the longest-established and most representative establishments. Here, tradition meets innovation, allowing visitors to gain first-hand insight into a production process that is rooted in Ligurian history and continues to enhance the region to this day.
From the aroma of beer to the sweetness of pandolce: tradition lives on
The light, fragrant flavour of beer, already popular among the ancient Ligurians, is perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the local pastry tradition. Since the year 1000, Liguria has cultivated a confectionery culture based on sweet breads and biscuits that have been handed down over the centuries. Among the most iconic specialities is the Genoese pandolce, along with canestrelli from Torriglia, amaretti from Sassello, spungata from Sarzana, buccellato and cubeletti from the eastern part of the region. In the western part of Liguria, on the other hand, the famous Baci di Alassio, almond chifferi and cubaite are produced – sweets that tell the story of the region’s history and identity.
With the development of trade and the arrival of new ingredients in the 18th and 19th centuries, the first artisanal pastry shops opened, particularly in Genoa and along the Riviera. Here, new techniques such as candying and confectionery-making became widespread, giving rise to specialities such as marron glacés, pralines and candied violets. Even today, stepping into a Ligurian patisserie means discovering a heritage of aromas, flavours and traditions that continue to live on through the ages.
To discover Liguria's confectionery tradition, it is worth visiting some of the historic shops that still preserve ancient recipes and techniques. In Genoa, establishments such as Antica Confetteria Romanengo and Pasticceria Klainguti are notable examples of a tradition passed down through the centuries. Amidst elegant display cases and enticing aromas, these establishments continue to offer specialities such as pandolce, candied fruit and biscuits, providing an authentic experience rooted in the region’s history.
