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Valley of the Calanchi in Bagnoregio: the landscape that changes before your eyes
The Valle dei Calanchi, or Badlands Valley, goes from Lake Bolsena in the west to the Tiber valley in the east, situated in the territory of Bagnoregio. There are actually two main valleys: the Fosso del Rio Torbido and Fosso del Rio Chiaro.
The Valley of the Calanchi is a landscape in constant transformation: clay ridges, peaks and deep gullies reshaped year after year by erosion. At its centre, perched on a tufa spur 423m above sea level, stands Civita di Bagnoregio, an ancient village reachable only on foot.
How the calanchi were formed
The changing morphology is due to the geological nature of the area. The base layer is marine clay - extremely ancient and fragile. Above it lie the volcanic deposits of the Vulsini complex - tuff and lava. Rain, wind and streams work the clay, carve it and drag it away. The result is the calanchi phenomenon: small basins bounded by thin ridges and peaks. An almost lunar landscape: bare and arid along the crests, yet with broom, dog rose and hawthorn surviving in the more sheltered spots. Lower down, there are chestnut and turkey oak woods.
What you can see and how to get there
The most accessible viewpoint is the belvedere of Bagnoregio, which offers a sweeping view of the entire valley. From Lubriano, trails lead down among the calanchi. The best time to visit is in spring, when the ground is dry, and with a local guide. At the heart of the valley stands a "cathedral" formation, a clay structure well worth the detour.
