Lake Garda: through villages and gorges in the steps of 007

Gargnano is the starting point for your tour in the footsteps of Quantum of Solace. Some scenes from the initial chase in the Bond film were shot on the winding roads that start in Gargnano and continue to the opposite shore of the lake. These scenes that are the starting point for getting to know this charming village.

Even the great Goethe, in his famous Italian Journey, was captivated by the small harbour of this fishing village on the western shore of Lake Garda. The English poet and writer D. H. Lawrence, meanwhile, chose it as his place of residence. There’s a plaque in a small hotel overlooking the harbour commemorating him. Pier Paolo Pasolini also filmed the opening scene of his film Salò, or the 120 Days of Sodom here, in a villa formerly owned by the publisher Feltrinelli and, during the Italian Social Republic, the residence of Benito Mussolini. It features a static shot of the Art Nouveau building overlooking the gentle, swimmable waters of the lake. It’s the perfect setting for the opening scene of your very own film, which you can experience first-hand in the beautiful surroundings of this unique lake.

From Gargnano, take the Gardesana Occidentale state road and follow the signs for Riva del Garda. But not before taking a guided tour of the historic Limonaia La Malora lemon house: Lake Garda enjoys a very special Mediterranean-like microclimate, which is ideal for growing this citrus fruit, as well as olives, which are used to produce one of the finest oils in the world.
Get in your car and enjoy the first few winding kilometres, passing through spectacular tunnels, some carved into the rock, towards the tiny village of Campione del Garda. You can get to it by taking a detour through a tunnel. Just like something out of a James Bond film.

From Campione, take the Gardesana again. On your left, however, take the turn-off for Tremosine sul Garda almost immediately. This is the start of Provincial Road 38 “Porto-Pieve”. Ahead of you lie breathtaking hairpin bends, as tackled by Daniel Craig in one of the most famous scenes in Quantum of Solace. And it won’t take you long to understand why: the Strada della Forra is a real gem, a set within a set, offering a cinematic spectacle unlike any other in the world. After a few very tight bends, you reach the most exciting and dramatic part of the route: a gorge, known as the “Forra”, carved out by the Brasa stream, which is so narrow that sunlight barely reaches it. As you experience a thrilling, rapid succession of light and shadow, you’ll feel as though you’re entering the mouth of a dragon. But once you get past the narrow passage, you literally enter another scene. The landscape changes radically: it opens up and becomes gentler. These are the highlands of Tremosine sul Garda – a scattered municipality made up of lots of small clusters of houses, like tiny crumbs cleverly and tastefully scattered here and there by a gentle giant. Don’t miss a stop at the “Terrazza del brivido” (terrace of thrills) in the village of Pieve: the view overlooking Lake Garda from here will remain etched in your memory like an Oscar-winning scene.  

Our quest for the treasures of Lake Garda in the company of Daniel Craig/James Bond, your spiritual guide on this journey, resumes with more lake views. This is where other scenes from Quantum of Solace were filmed, namely those where the lake features more prominently. You are in the vicinity of Limone sul Garda.

 “nomen omen” (the name is a wish), as the Romans said: here the lemons grow strong and juicy. Don’t miss a visit to the Limonaia del Castèl lemon house. But since adrenaline is the  defining feature of your itinerary: here’s a short excursion (on foot or by bike) along the suspended section of the Garda cycle path. The contrast between the rugged, craggy mountains, reminiscent of the Dolomites, and the almost maritime atmosphere of the port of Limone with its sparkling waters, is a sight to behold. But now it’s time for a well-deserved break: spending the night in Limone sul Garda is undoubtedly a relaxing and enchanting fairy-tale experience.

You’re now in the interval between acts one and two of your film: after so many beautiful sights and twists and turns, take the time to wander aimlessly through the streets of the old town. They’re full of shops, bars and restaurants overlooking the lake. If you come in summer, you’ll be able to catch the spectacle of the sunset over Lake Garda. A picture-perfect freeze frame.

Our journey in Daniel Craig’s footsteps picks up where we left off: the Gardesana. Between Limone and Riva del Garda the road becomes increasingly narrow and winding, with several tunnels of varying lengths. We’re now at the northernmost tip of Lake Garda. Here, surfers from all over Europe park their distinctive camper vans along the roadside and head into the water to take advantage of the unique wind currents that only form here. Between Limone, Riva and Torbole, on the opposite shore. We’re still following in the tracks of 007, after all. Adrenaline takes centre stage once again, whether it’s windsurfing or kitesurfing. Here, these vessels can reach supersonic speed. In no time at all, the hydroelectric power station with its giant pipes resting against the mountain will appear on your left, marking the entrance to the tourist resort of Riva del Garda. It’s a top destination for extreme sports enthusiasts: as well as windsurfing and kitesurfing, there’s also climbing, mountain biking and trekking. Leave your car behind and take a stroll through the old town of Riva del Garda, but be sure to stop and admire the lake: fed by its main tributary, the River Sarca, it stretches out as far as the eye can see towards the south.

You’ve made it. Filming for the 22nd instalment of the James Bond saga reached its climax near Malcesine. Early one morning, Daniel Craig’s stuntman, driving the Aston Martin, lost control in the fast, abrupt bends between Riva del Garda and Malcesine. In a heart-stopping moment, the Bondmobile ended up in the lake. It was a spectacular scene that, fortunately, ended well: the driver was safe and sound, having jumped out of the car before it hit the water. Driving that stretch of the Gardesana between Riva and Malcesine, through the tunnels, still gives you goosebumps. Of course, you’ll want to travel along it at a slower pace, enjoying Lake Garda from a different perspective: opposite you is the shore you travelled along the previous day. Seen from here, the tight hairpin bends of the Strada della Forra will seem even more daunting. Malcesine, formerly in the province of Verona and awarded the Italian Touring Club’s Orange Flag, greets visitors with its imposing Scaligero Castle. We’ve reached one of the most beautiful and scenic spots on Lake Garda. Gazing at the mountains on the western shore, jagged and so different from the gentle ones on the eastern shore, is a particularly striking experience. The cable car that takes you to the summit of Monte Baldo departs from Malcesine: here, the view becomes even more spectacular, if that’s possible.