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Food and wine
Gastronomy in Ruffano and Supersano

At the table in the serre salentine

Typology
car route
Duration
2 days
Number of Stages
3
Difficulty
Easy

We are in one of the most unique landscapes of Salento: that of the Serre, which never exceeds 200 metres in altitude, stony reliefs of a karst nature on which the farmers have struggled to remain, creating over the centuries cultivable terraces.

The most fascinating sight is the expanses of silvery olive trees, interrupted here and there by a fortified farmhouse or by sun-soaked villages that are deserted and silent at certain times of day.  And it is here, in this part of Puglia, that one of the pinnacles of Italian culinary excellence is produced: extra virgin olive oil. In particular, the Serre Salentine are predominantly the home of the Cellina di Nardò cultivar (a native variety of olive, also known as Saracena), which produces fruity oils with hints of berries. This variety is responsible for Terra d'Otranto PDO oil, together with Ogliarola olives (which are present throughout the region, but which only express the distinctive aroma of sweet almonds in Salento).

Besides oil, Salento cuisine – homely but bursting with flavour – has a whole host of products and dishes to try. Vegetables can be found in friselle (biscuit-like durum wheat bread dipped in water and flavoured with oil, salt and tomatoes), in orecchiette with turnip tops, and also in side dishes such as fava bean purée with chicory. There are fried black olives, featuring a sweetish pulp with a bitter aftertaste, also used to stuff puccia salentina bread. Chickpeas can be enjoyed in the pasta dish "ciceri e tria". There are meals based around lamb or horse meat and dishes featuring fish from the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. Not to mention desserts like pasticciotto. All accompanied by IGP red wines like Negroamaro and Primitivo. Our itinerary takes us to the villages of Ruffano, Supersano and Andrano, in the heart of the Serre Salentine, where you can discover places revisiting traditional Salento cuisine with an innovative twist, plus modern wine cellars where you can learn about production and tasting techniques.

Ruffano

Ruffano

In the historic centre of Ruffano, in Piazza del Popolo, a 17th-century building is home to Farmacia dei Sani, one of the region's leading lights for superb Salento cuisine. It all started with Ada and her timeless recipes, which she handed down to her daughter Valentina, who is now the executive chef of the eatery, which she runs alongside her brothers Fabio and Roberto. In the meantime, the venue has evolved from a traditional trattoria into a modern restaurant. Valentina has an instinctive ability to showcase ingredients in a contemporary style without forgetting their origins. For evidence, look no further than the pasta with mussels, offered here with lumaconi pasta and smoked mussels sweetened with coconut, or the bold chunky spaghetti with colatura di alici (anchovy sauce), contrasted by candied lemon.

Supersano

Supersano

Ten minutes by car from Ruffano, in Supersano, we find Supersanum cellar, which was founded in 2013 and is a family-run artisanal company handed down through four generations of farmers and wine producers. Wine lovers can visit the cellars and vineyards and learn about natural agricultural and winemaking methods. Masseria Le Stanzie is a great example of how welcoming and hospitable people in this area are. A typical Puglian residence dating back centuries, it has now been renovated and transformed into an agritourism venue with an intimate and homely atmosphere. The perfect stopping point for rest and refreshment, it serves up traditional local dishes and products.

Andrano

Andrano

Before you reach Andrano, with its imposing castle that became a lavish aristocratic residence in the 1600s, it is worth stopping to eat at Trattoria Vardaceli (named after a very spicy variety of chilli) in Castiglione d'Otranto. Situated in an 18th-century abbey, visitors can immerse themselves in the history of Salento cuisine, a treat for the tastebuds with a culinary selection that has remained unchanged over time.

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