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San Martino al Cimino Abbey: the dream of a "popess" in the Cimini Mountains
The Abbey of San Martino al Cimino is located in the Cimini Mountains, a few miles from Viterbo. It is an imposing Gothic-Cistercian church that was transformed in the 17th century by the ambitions of a woman, Olimpia Maidalchini, the pope's sister-in-law. She made it the heart of a model village, blending medieval austerity with Baroque splendour. A unique place in the Tuscia region.
The ambition of Donna Olimpia
The 13th-century Cistercian church was very much run-down. But in the mid-17th century, Olimpia Maidalchini, the powerful sister-in-law of Pope Innocent X, came onto the scene. She was nicknamed "la papessa" — the popess. She wanted to turn this place into her own personal state. She had the abbey restored, adding the two massive towers that can be seen today, and built around it an entirely planned village.
Gothic and Baroque, side by side
On entering, one can still sense the Gothic severity of the Cistercian monks, especially in the soaring apse. Then the eye is drawn to the Baroque details commissioned by Olimpia. The contrast is fascinating. One detail not to be missed is the monumental pipe organ. It is not original, but was built by an English firm, and arrived here only in 1996. A piece of England in the Tuscia region.
The abbey is an active parish church. It is located in Piazza della Chiesa in San Martino al Cimino (VT). Entrance is free, but it is advisable to respect the times of religious services.
