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Church of St Francis in Leonessa: a unique nativity scene and unearthed frescoes in the heart of Lazio
In the centre of Leonessa, in the province of Rieti, a Franciscan complex conceals some remarkable surprises. The Church of San Francesco in Leonessa is not simply a Gothic building, it is the guardian of an extraordinary life-size nativity scene made from terracotta. And beneath the floor, a crypt reveals Giottesque frescoes discovered only a few decades ago. A place recounting centuries of faith and art.
A portal that travelled
On the outside, the façade is recognisable from the red stone that frames it. But the most striking detail is the late-Gothic portal. The friars salvaged it from the destroyed church of San Donato delle Torri (St Donatus of the Towers) and reassembled it, stone by stone, after 1460. It is a piece of history rescued from oblivion.
On the inside, statues and rediscovered colours
The interior is supported by massive octagonal pillars. The eye is drawn immediately to the monumental 16th-century nativity scene, with polychrome terracotta figures that seem to be alive. Descending into the crypt — discovered by chance in 1993 — one comes face to face with a cycle of 14th-century frescoes. The most intriguing is that depicting the miracle of the Madonna dell'Ulivo (Our Lady of the Olive Tree), linked to the passage of the White Penitents in 1399.
Leonessa can be reached by car or by COTRAL bus from Rieti. The church is located in the historic town centre.
Entry is free of charge. Opening hours may vary; it is advisable to check with the Pro Loco of Leonessa or the parish before your visit. The church does not present architectural barriers.
