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Chiesa di San Donato (Church of San Donato) in Civita di Bagnoregio: the story behind the famous crucifix
In the heart of Civita di Bagnoregio, overlooking the main square, stands the ancient Chiesa di San Donato (Church of San Donato). This is no ordinary church: it served as the town's cathedral until the earthquake of 1699 forced its abandonment. Today, it houses a celebrated wooden crucifix from the school of Donatello, which lies at the heart of one of the most heartfelt processions of the entire Tuscia region.
A bell tower that tells stories of old
The church's present appearance is the result of Romanesque interventions carried out during the 11th and 12th centuries. But a detail that is really worth seeking out lies at the base of the bell tower. Look closely. Set into the masonry are two Etruscan sarcophagi carved in nenfro, a local volcanic rock — a remarkable instance of reuse that bears witness to the age-old history of this town perched on a rocky spur.
The crucifix that spoke to the people
Inside, the atmosphere is one of quiet simplicity. The eye is immediately drawn to the 15th-century crucifix, a work of the school of Donatello. For the local community, it is far more than a work of art: tradition holds that it once spoke to a woman to announce the end of a plague. Every Good Friday evening, in a moving nocturnal procession, the sacred object is carried through the darkness to the nearby town of Bagnoregio.
To visit the church, bear in mind that Civita can only be reached on foot, crossing the long pedestrian bridge. An entrance ticket is required to enter the village, but entry to the ancient cathedral is free of charge. The church is generally open during the day, though opening hours may vary — so it is always worth checking in advance.
