Discovering the artistic ceramics of Seminara

Wide-open mouths, long tongues, bulging eyes. You will see them on the doorways, and you will know that you have reached the heart of the village, where these apotropaic masks ( which, according to popular belief, keep evil away) are part of a tradition that has spanned the centuries and has imbued the history and identity of the village.

After a stroll through the narrow streets and in the artisan workshops, master ceramists known as pignatàri will guide you on a journey of discovery of the colourful artefacts famous throughout the world, whose shapes and vivid colours even captivated the painter Pablo Picasso. And there you will certainly find not only the talismanic demon masks, but also lanterns, bottles, anthropomorphic flasks (babbalùti in the local dialect), amphorae, jugs, the famous hedgehog-shaped jars, pine cones, and mermaids.

Each piece is unique, skilfully moulded using ancient techniques of Byzantine origin, handed down from father to son as the most precious of legacies. Each piece is unique, skilfully moulded using ancient Byzantine techniques, handed down from father to son as the most precious of legacies.

In 1746, there were 23 workshops in Seminara, and a few years later, in 1777, the British writer and traveller Henry Swinburne, passing through during his stay in Calabria, noted in his notebook the “bustle of pottery workshops” that had struck him as he strolled through the streets of Reggio Calabria.

We are just as astonished today as we are when we observe how skilled ceramicists can shape unique, one-of-a-kind forms from clay. To observe the beauty of ancient and modern artefacts up close and learn about their history and significance, you can visit the Ceramics Museum in Seminara.

A tour of the artisan workshops is a good excuse to visit Seminara, a treasure trove of art and culture immersed in greenery. In the historic town – which in 1290 was the birthplace of the philosopher, theologian, and mathematician Barlaam of Calabria, who taught Greek to Petrarch and Boccaccio – layers of history have left fascinating and evocative traces, especially in its religious buildings.

Worth mentioning is the Basilica Sanctuary of Maria Santissima dei Poveri, a neo-Romanesque church best known for the wooden statue of the Madonna with ebony skin. Passing by the remains of the Castello Mezzatesta, an ancient 17th-century palace, the Byzantine Monastery of Saints Elia and Filarete, where the monks celebrate services according to the Orthodox rite, is certainly worth a stop.

Leaving behind the ancient walls of the historic centre, we can delve into the lush nature that surrounds the village. It is not easy to reach as it can only be accessed by sea, but the beauty of Cala Janculla, the jewel of the Costa Viola, with its crystal clear waters, repays every effort.

Waterfalls, gorges, and canyons are part of the landscape of the Barritteri Archaeological Area, a destination for lovers of trekking and walking. Here, as you explore unspoilt nature, you may come across rocks engraved with words in ancient Greek, catch sight of a spectacular waterfall, or discover an ancient watermill.