In Palermo, his majesty the bread with spleen
2 minutes
You have to know something here: there is no chance that you will be on holiday in Palermo, or even just passing through the city, without someone offering you 'u pani c'a meusa, looking at you ruefully when you raise an eyebrow as soon as you hear the translation of the name of this very popular street food: bread with spleen.
It is a soft sesame bun, or cimmino as they say here, stuffed with calf spleen, lung and sometimes trachea, first boiled or steamed, then fried in sugna, or lard.
And that is exactly the scent you will smell as you stroll through the old town and through the city markets.
A tradition dating back to the Middle Ages
Legend has it that the origin of 'u pani c'a meusa dates back to the Middle Ages, when Jews living in Palermo worked as butchers. Since their religious beliefs did not allow them to generate a profit from slaughtering animals, instead of money they received offal as a reward. These included the spleen, lung and trachea, which they began to season in lard and consume as filling for their sandwiches.
It is also the food of the festivities
In Palermo, in the evening before the feast of the Immaculate Conception, that is, 7 December, it is customary to eat the sandwich by buying it from various street vendors or from the famous focaccia shops in the centre of Palermo.
These include the Antica Focacceria San Francesco, which dates back to 1834, L'Antica Focacceria di Porta Carbone, in Via Cala, and Nino 'u Ballerino in Corso Finocchiaro Aprile.
Schietto or maritatu?
There are two versions of the Bread with milza: schietto or maritatu.
The first involves adding lemon juice to the final result. The second involves slathering on some fresh ricotta or shredded caciocavallo cheese. If you really want to be extravagant, try both cheeses.
The alternative for vegetarians
If neither we nor the delicious smell coming from focaccerie and street vendors have convinced you, or if you are a vegetarian, fear not: there is no shortage of veg alternatives to street food in Palermo.
Try the panelle sandwich, made with chickpea flour, or the crocchè, typical potato croquettes cooked in hot oil, and you will be far from disappointed.
Bread with milza homemade
However, if bread with milza has won you over and you would like to recreate it when you return home, here are a few suggestions.
The bread must be made of wheat flour with sesame on top. The ratios of offal should be three parts spleen, six parts lung scraps, one part trachea.
Cheese for the topping must be fresh ricotta or mature caciocavallo cheese.
