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Rivodutri: alchemical gateways, sacred beeches and an underwater nativity scene
There is a village in the Valle Santa Reatina (Holy Valley of Rieti) that seems to have stepped straight out of a book of fairy tales and mysteries: Rivodutri. Nestled in the nature reserve of Laghi Lungo and Ripasottile, this place is far more than a medieval hamlet — it is a crossroads of stories and alchemy, Franciscan spirituality and singular traditions, and has earned the prestigious "Spighe Verdi" recognition for its commitment to sustainability.
The mystery of the Alchemical Gateway
The symbol of Rivodutri is a riddle carved in stone: the Porta Alchemica. This 17th-century portal, adorned with esoteric, mythological and sacred bas-reliefs, once served as the entrance to the long-lost palazzo of the Camiciotti family. Today it no longer leads to a sumptuous residence, but opens onto a garden — as if to mark a passage between the known world and a realm of secrets yet to be deciphered.
In the footsteps of St Francis and into the wild
Rivodutri is also a land of deep spirituality. The Way of Francis passes through here and, standing as testament to this, is the majestic Faggio di San Francesco — a monumental beech tree that, according to tradition, once offered shelter to the Saint himself. Not far away, the small Church of San Francesco al Cepparo offers a place of silence and meditation. All around, the nature reserve is a paradise for birdwatchers, and features yellow water lilies, reedbeds and trout darting along the canals.
A submerged nativity scene and unique flavours
Just when you think you have seen everything, Rivodutri surprises you with a little underwater magic. In the Spring of St Susanna, the only Underwater Nativity Scene in central Italy set within a natural spring has been created. The statues, lying at a depth of four metres, produce a breathtaking nocturnal vision. For a complete experience, do not miss the Sagra della Trota (Trout Festival) in August, or local flavours such as fried pizza and "serpentone" — a Christmas sweet rich in dried fruit.
Natural sites such as the nature reserve and the spring are freely accessible, but visitors are advised to check online for information on specific events such as the Sagra or the illumination of the nativity scene.
