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Proceno: The First Village in Lazio on the Via Francigena, a Medieval Castle and Red Garlic
Proceno stands 418 metres above sea level on tuff hills on the border between Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany, in the far north of the province of Viterbo. The village dominates the Paglia Valley on one side and the Stridolone valley on the other, in a position that for centuries has controlled traffic on the Via Cassia and the Via Francigena. It is the first village in Lazio that pilgrims encounter arriving from Tuscany. It has just over 600 inhabitants, and a historic centre with town walls that are still partly visible.
The Castle and Palazzo Sforza
The Castle of Proceno is a square-plan tower from the 12th century, built on a volcanic rock outcrop as a border fortress of the Patrimony of St Peter. The walls descend steeply for several metres. From the battlements there is a 360 degree view over three regions. Today the castle is an albergo diffuso (i.e. part of a hotel complex that is scattered around the village) and restaurant. Lower down, Palazzo Sforza dates from the 16th century, commissioned by Cardinal Guido Ascanio Sforza. The halls on the upper floor preserve frescoes attributed to the school of Taddeo and Federico Zuccari. The basement houses the Museum of Rural Life.
Red Garlic
Proceno is the home of red garlic, a local variety with red skin and a spicy aftertaste, a product with PAT and De.Co. labels. It is used in lombrichelli all'aglione pasta and lamb with garlic, traditional local dishes.
A Curiosity
Galileo Galilei is said to have stayed in the nearby hamlet of Centeno, in February 1625, while travelling to Rome to appear before the Holy Office.
