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Castelliri, an ancient border village on the River Liri
At the foot of the Monti Ernici (Hernici Mountains), in the heart of Ciociaria, lies the village of Castelliri. The town is divided between the ancient hilltop village and the modern centre on the plain below, the two parts united by the River Liri. Its identity is bound above all to the church of Santa Maria Salome (St Mary Salome) and to the prized Aglio Rosso (Red Garlic) of Castelliri — a truly one-of-a-kind product.
From fortified village to papal stronghold
Its current name was born in the Middle Ages, from Castrum Liris, meaning "fortress on the River Liri". The original fortified village was largely destroyed in the earthquake of 1456, yet it retained a strategic role for centuries. It served as an important military base of the Papal State on the border with the Duchy of Sora. This borderland past has shaped its character.
A cardinal's gift and an unmistakable flavour
Today, the parish church houses a precious 17th-century cross, which according to tradition was donated by Cardinal Cesare Baronio — a native of nearby Sora. But Castelliri also equates to flavour: the local Red Garlic has a distinctive taste and colour, tending towards a rosy hue. It is best sampled on toasted bread (or bruschetta), with a drizzle of olive oil. The taste is unforgettable.
The feast day of St Mary Salome is the Sunday following 22 October. Aglio Rosso can be purchased directly from local producers or in the village shops. For church opening times, it is advisable to check on-site.
