Home » Highlights » Itineraries in L'Aquila » Peligna Valley: Land of Art and Spirituality
The itinerary proposed here focuses on the wealth of historical and artistic wonders of the Peligna Valley, a land where spirituality has always co-existed with practical business skills. A few kilometers away from Sulmona, you can visit the Hermitage of Sant'Onofrio, and then continue on to Pacentro and, finally, cross the Plateau of Cinque Miglia to the picturesque town of Pescocostanzo.
Author: Walter Cavalieri
An easy drive on the highway will allow you to travel from L'Aquila to the very ancient, Italic city of Sulmona, “capital” of the Peligna Valley and birthplace of the renowned Latin poet, Ovid.
Located in the fertile valley along the system of pasture roads, the city flourished under the Swabian emperors, as demonstrated by the majestic, medieval aqueduct that still borders Piazza Garibaldi with its arches. Sulmona is not only an art city with a wealth of significant monuments and aristocratic buildings, but it is also known for its strong cultural, artistic, and productive drive, and the production of sugared almonds. It is worth touring the entire city, paying special attention to the cathedral and monumental complex of Santa Annunziata.
On the rocky slopes of Mt. Morrone, which overlook the Peligna Valley, stands the Hermitage of Sant'Onofrio (620 m). It is the most well-known hermitage in Abruzzo, and served as a place of retreat for Pietro Angelerio. In 1294, a delegation marched up the steep, rocky path leading to the hermitage, in order to inform the mystic Friar Pietro that he had been elected pope. He was then crowned with the name of Celestine V, and became one of the Church’s most prominent and controversial figures from the Middle Ages. Many scholars consider him to be the target of Dante’s phrase “del gran rifiuto” (the grand refusal). At the base of the hermitage’s cliffs, one can find the Tempio di Ercole Curino (temple of Hercules), dating back to the Italic-Roman epoch.
Serving as a guard station at the foot of Mt. Morrone, for the entrance to the Peligna Valley, you can visit the consolidated, fortified, medieval village of Pacentro, which is overlooked by the three rectangular towers of the Cantelmo (or Caldora) Castle. Here, visitors can admire the noble buildings and Parish Church of St. Mary Major or “della Misericordia.”
Going up towards the Cinque Miglia Plateau, at an altitude of 1,400 meters above sea level, you will come across the charming mountain village of Pescocostanzo, with its exceptional Renaissance and Baroque monuments and buildings. Of particular interest is the thirteenth-century Collegiate Church of Santa Maria del Colle, boasting two entranceways and five naves with trussed ceilings. Since its origins, Pescocostanzo has been a stop for shepherds practicing transhumance, and it has benefitted from steady demographic, economic, and cultural growth over the centuries. In the 16th century, the town’s authorities commissioned several construction projects to a community of skilled Lombard workers, whose wives also introduced the art of bobbin lace; the other main artisan activity is that of the expert goldsmiths.
km 7.8
42.047 N - 13.926 E
Sulmona is a city with about 25,000 residents, located in the province of L'Aquila, at an altitude of 400 meters above sea level.
It stands at the foot of Mt. Morrone, a symbol in the spiritual journey of Celestine V. The rivers of Gizio and Vella pass through here. Writers from ancient times agree on the origin of the name “Sulmona,” tracing it back to the destruction of Troy. In fact, according to Ovid and Silius Italicus, it derives from Solymus Phrygia, one of Aeneas’s men.
Ovid is most likely also the most prominent figure born in Sulmona, along with Pope Innocent VII.
In 1706, the city was severely damaged in a terrible earthquake that killed over one-fourth of the population and destroyed a good part of the city.
Sulmona is also known for the production of confections, which began at the end of the 15th century, in addition to the goldsmith’s art, dating back to the 1300-1400s.
Of particular interest is the Cathedral of San Panfilo, which was built during the 8th century on top of the ruins of a pagan temple; the Villa Comunale with its eighteenth-century Palazzo Vescovile; and the medieval aqueduct. Two of the many impressive churches here are Santa Maria della Tomba and San Francesco della Scarpa, which boasts a beautiful Romanesque entranceway.
In July-August, Sulmona puts on the “Giostra Cavalleresca,” an old-fashioned jousting battle between knights.
km 10.4
42.089 N - 13.936 E
Located on a cliff, it can be accessed by way of a rough path leaving from the main square at Morronese Abbey.
It was built in 1290 upon the will of Pietro Angelerio, later Pope Celestine V, who lived in the hermitage for about a year, from 1293 until he became pope.
Although it has been restructured a number of times over the years, it maintains its original form. It includes several rooms for religious hermits and an oratory filled with magnificent frescos from the 1200s, painted by Master Gentile da Sulmona.
km 31.9
42.052 N - 13.992 E
This small town is located between Mt. Morrone and the Peligna Valley. It is crowned by the Caldora Castle (dating back to the 10th cent.) which, along with the castles of Pettorano, Introdacqua, Anversa, Bugnara, Popoli, and Roccacasale, formed a defence system for the Peligna Valley.
Walking through the historical centre, visitors can admire impressive churches such as the Chiesa Madre (11th cent.) and San Marcello (founded in 1407), in addition to various aristocratic buildings: Palazzo Tonno, Palazzo La Rocca (where the town hall offices are now located), Palazzo Avolio, Palazzo Massa, Palazzo Granata, and Palazzo Simone.
Every September the town holds the "Corsa degli Zingari" (gypsy race), a barefoot race with ties to the Santa Casa di Loreto. This event combines religion with secular/pagan elements and attracts thousands of tourists. Pacentro has been added to the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.”
km 11.7
41.893 N - 13.995 E
This scenic flatland nestled in the National Park of Abruzzo (altitude: 1,200 m) lies Northwest-Southeast and covers five “ancient miles” (9 km).
It is the location of many nature sites and tourist destinations: Roccaraso, with some of the largest ski resorts in the central part of Southern Italy; Rivisondoli, home of the oldest and most renowned living nativity scene in Italy; Pescocostanzo, with its wealth of fine handcrafted products (gold filigree, bobbin lace, wrought iron, carved wood); Pescasseroli, site of the National Park of Abruzzo; and Opi, one of the main tourist destinations in the park.
The plateau offers a spectacular natural environment that is highly appreciated by visitors, especially during the summer months.
It can be easily toured, thanks to its many paths. Being a nature reserve, visitors can enjoy frequent sightings of the local fauna: bears, wolves, deer, squirrels, and foxes. Cross-country skiing can be practiced on the flatland here in the winter.
41.889 N - 14.064 E
Pescocostanzo is located between Mt. Maiella and the Upper Sangro Valley. It is a Roman settlement from the 3rd century AD, that flourished around 1000 AD, as demonstrated by an inscription from 1066 on one of the panels of the bronze door at the Basilica of Montecassino.
In 1456, severe damage was caused by an earthquake and the town underwent significant social and cultural changes. The entire town was reconstructed and the resources connected to sheep husbandry encouraged an incoming flow of selected expert workers from Lombardy. Their arrival brought refined techniques in artisan works such as stone, marble, wrought iron, and wood. In 1774, the town became independent and was awarded the title of "Universitas Sui Domina" (self-governing community), a motto that can still be seen in the coat of arms. The thriving history of this small mountain community can be seen in the beautiful architecture in the centre of town, including the noteworthy structure of the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, now a basilica dedicated to Santa Maria del Colle. Its splendid entranceways, one Romanesque and the other Renaissance, lead to five naves, the central one of which was designed by architect Carlo Sabatini, and is decorated with religious furnishings.
The impressive trussed ceiling from the 17th century is adorned with a number of valuable paintings, including works by Giovannangelo Buco, and others of unknown origin, but most likely from the school of Jusepe de Ribera and Salvador Rosa. The altar displays one of Abruzzo’s rare examples of medieval woodworking, the Madonna del Colle, made of multi-coloured wood.
From the train station, visitors can reach the town centre following the long street flanked with gardens, and will immediately come across the Baroque Chiesa di Gesù e Maria (Church of Jesus and Mary – 1611) and annexed Franciscan Convent. Facing the same set of steps as the collegiate church is the Church of Santa Maria del Suffragio dei Morti. Moving on, one can visit a number of eighteenth-century mansions and buildings.The illustrious mathematician and Kantian philosopher Ottavio Colecchi was a citizen of Pescocostanzo.
Visitors can also take advantage of the ski areas and nature walks within the Comunità Montana Alto Sangro e Altopiano delle Cinque Miglia (Mountain Community of the Upper Sangro Valley and Cinque Miglia Plateau).
